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TR Paul

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About TR Paul

  • Birthday 01/17/1971

Profile Information

  • Location
    Bournemouth, England
  • Cars Owned:
    1970 TR6 pi 1957 Austin A35

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  1. Hi Chaps, really interesting subject; I'm fascinated by these old mags (I have a large pile of late '70s/early '80s Motorsports). The F1 & rallying in those days was so much better than now, and the classified sections are amazing! I'm glad TR prices haven't gone stupid like A-Ms, Healeys, E-Types etc, otherwise I would not be a TR6 owner myself! Cheers, Paul.
  2. No worries, Ian. Good luck with your bumper. Happy TR'ing, Paul.
  3. Hi Ian, how spooky... I've been playing with the number plate lamp on TRoy, my 1970 TR6 (cp) today. It depends how small & dextrous your fingers are, but you might be able to get a 2BA spanner or socket onto the nuts that hold the lamp onto the bumper, to get it off, but even if you can manage this, I imagine it will be nearly impossible to get them back on again. If you've got big fingers (like me), you'll need to take the bumper off, or you can do like I did: slacken (but don't remove) the 2 side bolts next to the wheel arches, & then remove the rear bolts, & carefully swing the bumper down (pivoting on those side bolts), & rest it on a bucket or box or something. Take care with this, 'cos there's lots of scope for scraping the paint on the valance. This should give you (relatively) easy access to the lamp mounting. I found that mine wasn't working 'cos of a poor earth, so I ran a wire from of one of the mounting screws, through the hole in the valance where the 'LIVE' wires for the lamp come through, back into the boot, & attached to one the side/indicator/etc lamp mounting screws. When I'd done this, one of the no. plate lamps still wasn't working (both bulbs were healthy & the bulb was flickering as I was twisting it into the bulb holder), so after some head scratching, & some muttered curses, I noticed the 'LIVE' contact in the bulb holder had managed to swivel itself 'round in its' fibre base plate; after a bit of fiddling around with it, I managed to get it working..... Hopefully the gremlins will leave my '6 alone for a while now! Hope this helps, Cheers, Paul.
  4. Hi Geoff, I have a 70amp alternator on my '6, which I bought from Minispares. these are £60. They also sell a 45amp unit, which is £43.50. Cheers, Paul.
  5. Nice one Denis, & a Happy Birthday to your '6! Best wishes, Paul.
  6. TR Paul


    Great, thanks Steve! Cheers, Paul.
  7. TR Paul


    Hi Chaps, this is interesting stuff; Will the temp sender work if dipped in a cup of hot water, or does it have to be earthed (as it would be on the engine block)? Best wishes, Paul.
  8. Hi Chaps, A couple of years ago, TRoy, My 1970 TR6 failed his MOT on handbrake adjustment (How unusual...). Whilst tending to this matter, I thought I'd drill the extra hole in the lever for the compensator link (after reading of this mod in TRaction.). Imagine my surprise, then, when I found that the (one & only) hole was already where I was going to drill it, and would've appeared to have left the factory like that! Perhaps it was a of dealer fitted improvement? Best wishes, Paul.
  9. Also, the steel sleeves inside the rear diff mounting rubbers can come unstuck from the rubber bit (to use the correct technical terminology). Best wishes, Paul
  10. Hi Waldi, Very interesting findings you've made with your experiment. Not being an expert on these things, I'd say that if an accurate temperature reading is required, a capillary gauge would be the way to go; As long as they are consistent, the TR6 style electrical unit, as you've discovered, should be adequate. As regards 'TRoy', In the current spell of slightly cooler (but more pleasant) weather (compared with 2-3 weeks ago), the needle is now hovering much closer to the middle of the temp gauge. Again, many thanks for all your advice & comments, Best wishes Paul.
  11. Hi, thanks for all the replies to my post; some interesting points raised. The radiator was re-cored in 2013, & I do have a Kenlowe fan (fitted by a p.o). It's mounted on the front (grill side) of the rad, so you'd say it blows the air, rather than sucks. As for the gauge sensor, yes, I've had issues with these in the past. I've heard (Possibly on this forum or in 'TRaction') that the ones with black plastic are more accurate than the red ones. Oh, and my thermostat is a wax item; the only time I've encountered a bellows one, was on the Rover (P4) 100 I used to run 15-20 years ago. Cheers, Paul.
  12. Hi Chaps... In the current spell of (un)seasonal weather, TRoy, my 1970 TR6 pi has been running rather warm. The cooling system seems healthy enough, as in 'normal' weather, he runs at just over the 'N' mark on the temp gauge, but at this time, he's hovering at half way between 'N' and 'H', moving up to three quarters of the way in traffic. This is after fitting a 74degree thermostat, so I was thinking about trying to bring the temperature down a bit further. I gather it's unwise to go too far without a thermostat ,as this can cause uneven distribution of the water around the head & block. So I was considering either a blanking sleeve (as used in race spec BMC 'A' series engines), as this will (in an 'A' series at least; perhaps the TR engine is different in this respect?) make the engine run cooler, without disturbing the distribution, or the 'skeleton' of an old thermostat:- a thermostat with the moving component (the wax bit & spring) removed, which, in theory should have the same effect as the blanking sleeve? Has anybody tried anything like this? Is this worth a try, or am I just wasting my time, or maybe even asking for more trouble? Should I just persevere with these temperatures, 'til the weather returns to 'normal'; after all, TRoy hasn't actually overheated, in some fairly extreme conditions recently. As ever, your advice & opinions will be much appreciated, Cheers, Paul.
  13. I personally like the look of both the factory TR6 H/Top & the Surrey top on a '6 (although the Factory '6 top is slightly better suited & probably more practical). I'm just amazed that the factory dropped the Surrey top (with the TR5) at around the time that Porsche & Ferrari (& later Fiat, Lancia,Chevrolet etc) were starting to popularize the 'Targa' top, especially as I believe that many thought that proper convertibles were going to be outlawed in the USA; Also, I think a 'Targa' top could have suited the TR7.... Typical British motor industry foresight! Cheers, Paul.
  14. Sounds like a good plan, Mike; an easier job too.... in theory! Cheers, Paul.
  15. Hi Chaps, thanks for the response. My gearbox mounting theory is based on the fact that the GB rubber is not looking healthy (it looks like it's had a healthy dowsing of S.A.E 90 over the years!), it's the same unit that's been on the car in 10+ years of ownership, & the symptoms get worse as things get hotter, which in my mind is consistent with the idea of the rubber breaking down. The dowel bolts haven't been disturbed (during my ownership), & this is a recent problem, so I'm not too sure if this could be the cause. However, I could be wrong (& I have been, many times before now!!). Best wishes, Paul
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