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TR Paul

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About TR Paul

  • Birthday 01/17/1971

Profile Information

  • Location
    Bournemouth, England
  • Cars Owned:
    1970 TR6 pi 1957 Austin A35

Recent Profile Visitors

1,020 profile views
  1. Hi Dan, I had a similar 'clunk' with my '6' ('Troy') a couple of years ago; the steel tubes had un-glued themselves from the insides of the diff mounting bushes. This took someone of my limited intelligence quite a while to work out, but ended up being a fairly cheap & easy fix! Hope this helps, Cheers, Paul.
  2. Good evening, fellow TR6ers, hope you are all coping well with the Covid 19 situation.... If you are looking for something to cheer yourself up with, the late '60s/early '70s childrens' TV series Catweazle is currently being shown on 'Talking Pictures TV' (freeview ch81), Wednesdays, 5.00pm. This week, the episode is 'The Magic Face', which includes a guest appearance from a Damson TR6 (an early factory demonstrator, I believe). Happy viewing, & Happy TR-ing!, Cheers, Paul.
  3. Hi Rob, good point; I haven't had a chance to try the lights out (with the engine running, as you described). I will report back, when I've done this. Cheers, Paul.
  4. Hi, Paul, Rob, Steve, Bruce & Matt... Thanks for taking time to responding to my questions. I especially like Matts' relay wiring diagram. TRoys' alternator is a 70 amp (Metro?) unit, from Minispares . I had it tested a couple of years ago, as I was having charging issues (which was actually a Fawlty ignition light), and it came back with a clean bill of health. I feel it is still working efficiently, as the ammeter always give a good reading, & there have been no other 'charging' related problems since I cured the ignition light problem (with much good advice & guidance from th
  5. Good day to you all, I hope you & you're families are all keeping well. I have a pair of Lucas 'Square 8' fog lamps fitted to TRoy, my 1970 TR6pi. These are wired through a relay, which takes one of it's live feeds from the sidelight circuit, meaning that they will only work if the sidelights are on (but they do have a separate switch). Recently I've noticed that if I turn the fog lamps are on, whilst the headlamps are on, the extra load applied to the fog lamps, causes the head lamps to dim. Do I need to consider fitting relay(s) for the headlights. If so, what's the best way of goin
  6. Great thanks,Tom. Most of the steady bars I've seen do look agricultural (other than the ones the Lancia boys used!), being just strips of ''Meccano' style exhaust bracketry. All the best, Paul.
  7. Hi TRTom, the Vitaloni mirrors do look very smart, and look 'period' on a TR6. They are available from Europa spares, at £36.00 each. I've been thinking of replacing the bullet mirrors on my '6 with them. Do they vibrate whilst driving? I've seen photo's of cars (incl 'works' Lancia rally cars from the '80s) fitted with those mirrors, assisted by a steady bar. Cheers, Paul.
  8. Good evening fellow TR6ers... You might be interested to know that I have had a new threaded 'live' post fitted to TRoys' starter motor. I accessed the nuts holding the motor on, via the transmission tunnel. This tunnel is now more duct tape than cardboard, so I might be investing in a new plastic replacement, sometime this year. A big thank you to all who have provided me with advice & encouragement, especially Dave & Mike.... Long live the Forum! (Stoneleigh here we come....) Cheers, Paul
  9. Great, thanks Dave, that make it pretty clear..... be seeing you. Cheers, Paul
  10. Cheers, Dave. That would be marvellous. Best wishes, Paul.
  11. That'd be great John.... I'm off work this Tuesday & Wednesday; I'll get the kettle on. Cheers, Paul.
  12. Hi Mike/Dave, I am leaning towards your plan of removing the nut from inside the car... Is that nut easily accessible once the cardboard tunnel's out of the way (or an acceess hole's been cut)? I thought it was behind the (steel) bulkhead, although I have been wrong about these things, more than once before? Cheers, Paul.
  13. Thanks for all this good information. You might be interested to know that I attacked the offending post with a 5/16" UNC die this morning. The starter is still on the car, & there isn't room to use the die holder, so I was just using my (cold!) fingers & mole grips.... so (surprise, surprise) that didn't work..... Next step is to remove the starter, & try to do the job properly (no, not usually my style!). The WOSP starters are a pain to remove, as the top bolt is replaced by a 3/8 UNF stud, with a nut on the g/box side, & accessibility is severely restricted, which is
  14. Hi Bruce, thanks for the WOSP info....that might be useful. Best wishes, Paul.
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