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TR Paul

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Everything posted by TR Paul

  1. Hi Dan, I had a similar 'clunk' with my '6' ('Troy') a couple of years ago; the steel tubes had un-glued themselves from the insides of the diff mounting bushes. This took someone of my limited intelligence quite a while to work out, but ended up being a fairly cheap & easy fix! Hope this helps, Cheers, Paul.
  2. Good evening, fellow TR6ers, hope you are all coping well with the Covid 19 situation.... If you are looking for something to cheer yourself up with, the late '60s/early '70s childrens' TV series Catweazle is currently being shown on 'Talking Pictures TV' (freeview ch81), Wednesdays, 5.00pm. This week, the episode is 'The Magic Face', which includes a guest appearance from a Damson TR6 (an early factory demonstrator, I believe). Happy viewing, & Happy TR-ing!, Cheers, Paul.
  3. Hi Rob, good point; I haven't had a chance to try the lights out (with the engine running, as you described). I will report back, when I've done this. Cheers, Paul.
  4. Hi, Paul, Rob, Steve, Bruce & Matt... Thanks for taking time to responding to my questions. I especially like Matts' relay wiring diagram. TRoys' alternator is a 70 amp (Metro?) unit, from Minispares . I had it tested a couple of years ago, as I was having charging issues (which was actually a Fawlty ignition light), and it came back with a clean bill of health. I feel it is still working efficiently, as the ammeter always give a good reading, & there have been no other 'charging' related problems since I cured the ignition light problem (with much good advice & guidance from th
  5. Good day to you all, I hope you & you're families are all keeping well. I have a pair of Lucas 'Square 8' fog lamps fitted to TRoy, my 1970 TR6pi. These are wired through a relay, which takes one of it's live feeds from the sidelight circuit, meaning that they will only work if the sidelights are on (but they do have a separate switch). Recently I've noticed that if I turn the fog lamps are on, whilst the headlamps are on, the extra load applied to the fog lamps, causes the head lamps to dim. Do I need to consider fitting relay(s) for the headlights. If so, what's the best way of goin
  6. Great thanks,Tom. Most of the steady bars I've seen do look agricultural (other than the ones the Lancia boys used!), being just strips of ''Meccano' style exhaust bracketry. All the best, Paul.
  7. Hi TRTom, the Vitaloni mirrors do look very smart, and look 'period' on a TR6. They are available from Europa spares, at £36.00 each. I've been thinking of replacing the bullet mirrors on my '6 with them. Do they vibrate whilst driving? I've seen photo's of cars (incl 'works' Lancia rally cars from the '80s) fitted with those mirrors, assisted by a steady bar. Cheers, Paul.
  8. Good evening fellow TR6ers... You might be interested to know that I have had a new threaded 'live' post fitted to TRoys' starter motor. I accessed the nuts holding the motor on, via the transmission tunnel. This tunnel is now more duct tape than cardboard, so I might be investing in a new plastic replacement, sometime this year. A big thank you to all who have provided me with advice & encouragement, especially Dave & Mike.... Long live the Forum! (Stoneleigh here we come....) Cheers, Paul
  9. Great, thanks Dave, that make it pretty clear..... be seeing you. Cheers, Paul
  10. Cheers, Dave. That would be marvellous. Best wishes, Paul.
  11. That'd be great John.... I'm off work this Tuesday & Wednesday; I'll get the kettle on. Cheers, Paul.
  12. Hi Mike/Dave, I am leaning towards your plan of removing the nut from inside the car... Is that nut easily accessible once the cardboard tunnel's out of the way (or an acceess hole's been cut)? I thought it was behind the (steel) bulkhead, although I have been wrong about these things, more than once before? Cheers, Paul.
  13. Thanks for all this good information. You might be interested to know that I attacked the offending post with a 5/16" UNC die this morning. The starter is still on the car, & there isn't room to use the die holder, so I was just using my (cold!) fingers & mole grips.... so (surprise, surprise) that didn't work..... Next step is to remove the starter, & try to do the job properly (no, not usually my style!). The WOSP starters are a pain to remove, as the top bolt is replaced by a 3/8 UNF stud, with a nut on the g/box side, & accessibility is severely restricted, which is
  14. Hi Bruce, thanks for the WOSP info....that might be useful. Best wishes, Paul.
  15. Hi Pete, Rob & Graham. Thanks for your replies; You raise some interesting points. Sadly there isn't enough length on the stud for any washers; one of the downsides of the 'WOSP' starter is that the stud is already 1/2" to short at the best of times, & I've always used 'thread-lock' on the stud. I think I've just found a slim 5/16" UNC nut on my old O/E Lucas starter, so I might try that route. My plan (until I had my latest 'brainwave') was to take the starter off (a job I'm trying to avoid....), & get it repaired at a alternator/starter motor specialist I know of (or get my O/E
  16. Good morning. As a follow on from my post last week about my TR6 charging issues, I thought I would ask for some more advice on my latest problem... Whilst looking for the source of my charging problem, I found that the nut that holds the cables onto the starter motor were indeed lose (although this wasn't the cause of the charging problem). Naturally, I tried to tighten it, but the nut wouldn't tighten. It had obviously been loose for a while, as the cable 'eyes' had worn away the thread on the contact stud. It is a 'WOSP' hi-torque starter, & the thread is M8. I've tried cutting a
  17. Thanks, Mike; subtle, yet cunning..... Cheers, Paul.
  18. Thanks, Waldi/Mike... I sprayed plus-gas on it this morning. Cheers Paul.
  19. Glad to hear you're ok, Mike. Our thoughts in England are with our Australian friends. I did some investigating this morning, & found that it is indeed the bulb/bulb holder... if you gently push the bulb into the holder, it lights up. if you pull it, it lights up. But I don't think I can rely on it to maintain contact. I fitted it back into the r/counter, & with some fiddling, it would come on. I then started the engine, & hey presto, an almost instant + charge on the ammeter! Problem is, the bulb seems to be stuck the holder, so I can't change it or clean it up, tweak the c
  20. Thanks, Mike. I was going to look at the bulb first, as this would be the easiest fix (although that kind of thing doesn't usually work out like that for me...). Hope you are keeping safe in 'Oz', Best wishes, Paul.
  21. Thanks, Waldi; my first check will be the charge lamp, & the relevant connections, followed (if necessary) by a session with my multi meter. Best wishes, Paul.
  22. Thanks for your replies, Michael & Rob: a couple of interesting points there..... The battery is 3 or 4 years old, & always holds a good charge between using the car (sometimes upto 2 weeks, at this time of year), but I did forget to mention in my 1st post, that when this problem first arose, the ign light (which is the standard item, no LEDs or anything; I've certainly never changed that bulb, in 12+ years that I've owned the car.) was very erratic, & now it doesn't work at all..... Cheers, Paul.
  23. Good morning, hope the weekend's going well for you all. As you would guess from the title of this post, I have a problem with the charging system on TRoy, my 1970 TR6 pi: When you turn the engine on, the ammeter shows (-) discharge, and if you turn the lights on, they will be very dim. If you drive away at normal traffic speeds, sometimes (without you noticing it) the ammeter needle will eventually move into the + side of the gauge, but more often than not you have to 'give it some welly', or blip the throttle (to anywhere around 2500 -3500 rpm). One time this didn't happen at all, & I
  24. Great, thanks Daz, Roger, Mike, Roy, & Phil; your advice is much appreciated; I'll let you know how I get on! Enjoy the weekend, Cheers, Paul.
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