TR4A/TR6 wiper motor conversion - looking for the correct dash switch to use

[RogerH]

Phew    

 

Roger

[Tr4aJim]

Phil, your plate/install looks great! Man, I wish I had that much space around my motor! Sorry, can’t help you with the VS.

Jim

Edited January 27 by Tr4aJim

[stillp]

1 hour ago, phil Dean said:

 

The only problem I have found now is the fuel gauge and temp gauge are not working this usual points to the voltage regulator but everything else running thru the V/ Reg is working fine heater,flashers, wiper motor brake lights is this a head up under dash to see if I have pulled some wires when changing the plastics wedges and cleaning the wiper boxes or is there something else I should check. The V/Reg is a after market one. Everything was working fine before I started the wiper instal.

Phil.

 

 

Not the main regulator Phil but the instrument voltage regulator, which only supplies the fuel and temp gauges, nothing else. On a TR4A it's in the driver's side footwell, just to the right of the accelerator.

Pete

[phil Dean]

Yes thanks I know we’re it is will have a look tomorrow 

[Lebro]

3 hours ago, phil Dean said:

The only problem I have found now is the fuel gauge and temp gauge are not working this usual points to the voltage regulator but everything else running thru the V/ Reg is working fine heater,flashers, wiper motor brake lights

 

You are confusing the dynamo voltage regulator, which affects all the electrics on the car, with the instrument voltage stabiliser, which is only there to provide a constant voltage to those two gauges.

Bob

[phil Dean]

Thanks Jim just a shame the rest of the under-bonnet doesn’t look as good. Still concentrating on the mechanical side this year then I will make the big decision leave it slightly taty or spend the big money on bodywork

[RobH]

I think what Phil means is that the 'B' tag on the instrument voltage stabiliser is used as a pick-off point for power to all those circuits, though only the gauges are connected to its stabilised output of course.  

[phil Dean]

As Rob shows above that’s the gauge voltage stabiliser I was thinking about. Will do some head behind dash inspecting tomorrow 

[RogerH]

Hi Phil,

sometimes it is worthwhile removing the Speedo & Tacho to shed light on it and get a better view.

 

Roger

[phil Dean]

thanks Roger I am going to start a new post on this later with pics etc 

[silverfox4]

I'm a little late to the party here. I have digested all the information and started to accumulate the various bits for the conversion.  Before installing the 90T gear as noted in the attached images, can someone advise on which side of the gear wheel the parking "hump" should be for the 1967 LHD TR4A e.g. closest or furthest from say the cable attachment point as a reference?

appreciate the advice

Cheers 

 

[Lebro]

Makes no difference where you put it, The motor will always stop (park) when the cam pushes the switch pin down.

Looking at photos above, that will be when the cable end is pushed fully out of the motor.

Bob

[RogerH]

Not so - the two positions are to accomadate RHD and LHD

I can't remember where I put mine 0- but it started off in the wrong place so I had to change it over.   Fairly easy job.

 

Roger

[phil Dean]

I hope this helps see picture mine started of in the wrong place right hand drive car so took a picture when I took it out prior to swapping the cam round. So theoretically this should correct for you with a left hand drive car.

Phil

[Lebro]

Oh  I see ! Had not realised the cam could be placed in two different places on the gear. Silly me !

Bob

[Tr4aJim]

Sorry, I don’t recall the position on mine either. However when I ordered it from SVC, I had to specify RHD or LHD. If you had to do the same when you purchased yours, it should be good to go.

Jim

[silverfox4]

Many thanks all. While I did not specify LHD at order, it seems based on Phil's image, mine is in the correct position, but as Roger suggests it easy enough to change later, so no train smash.

May I add another query, I have been following Roger's script for modifying the TR4A switch, but rather by changing out the toggle switch head from switch LUCAS #35927  (aka BHA4786).  Apart from losing and having to reassemble the springs I believe I got it done.  How do I relate wiring colour arrangement to multimeter continuity checks

Roger's notes Provide ......Position 2  Green / Brown  >  OFF/Park

                                           Position4  Green                 > 12V power   (Iused this pin for Multimeter RED

                                           Position 6  Green/Red         >  Normal speed 

                                           Position 8   Green / Blue      > Fast speed

My Multimeter check results...  Switch IN = OFF/Park       > with red lead on Pins 3/4  = NO continuity at any pin

                                                     Switch first position = normal speed.....Continuity at Pins 1 and 7

                                                     Switch second position= Fast speed.... Continuity at Pins 1, 7, and 8

So have I managed to transfer the push/pull switch head correctly or not?

 

Cheers

Alf

[RogerH]

Hi Alf,

 well done. You understand the workings.

Contacts 1 & 7 are something of a 'Red Herring' - they do nothing on the outside but make the switch work on the inside. They short out the contacts to make sense.

so the following is the correct logic  -   Rather than checking the continuity with regard to contact 4 (+12v input) check the continuity where the internal switch is sitting.

So -  OFF - 2 & 6

       1st click    4 & 6

       2nd click  4 & 8

By fitting the spring contact into the body (and the clicking is positive) the switch will simply work.

Should the click feel soft an d floppy the copper shorting rods oin the springs have gone dicky   -   Panic

Interestingly, should you need a switch for your old DR3 motor, then the original contact positions still work.

One switch does 2 motors.   What more do you want

 

Roger

[phil Dean]

Also as Roger reminded me after he saved my conversion from disaster by rebuilding my switch after it had ended in bits under my none to delicate hands makes sure you isolate 1&7 with dummy insulated spade terminals or electrical tape because apparently at certain switch position they are live and if another wire is laying against them they could cause a short.

Phil.

[RogerH]

Hi Folks,

 a good tip - when you attempt to remove the internals from the plastic body - select the 1st click (normal speed)

This places the sprung assembly in the middle.

When you have removed it   - place it somewhere safe and leave it alone.

To Replace - insert a 1mm x 6mm wide strip of metal into the gap between contacts 4 & 6. 

Pop the sprung  assembly over the strip and then push the whole lot into the plastic body.

Job done

 

Roger

[Tr4aJim]

Don’t feel bad Phil- when attempting to modify my switch, and had separated the two halves, I proceeded to immediately drop it on a concrete floor (scattering bits everywhere)!  

Jim

[phil Dean]

O I am very good at dropping things I’ve just dropped, lost the pin that holds the window winder to the mechanism been on my hands and knees on that garage floor twice now still can’t see it 

[RogerH]

2 hours ago, phil Dean said:

O I am very good at dropping things I’ve just dropped, lost the pin that holds the window winder to the mechanism been on my hands and knees on that garage floor twice now still can’t see it 

Hi Phil,

get yourself a large (very big) horse shoe magnet. Then sweep over the floor with it.

 

Roger

[phil Dean]

I've got one somewere Roger thinking about it but cant pull the car out at the moment there's white stuff coming down up here and with it being a white car I might loose it 

[RogerH]

Snow   aaarrrggghhhh