tr2_applegreen Posted November 12, 2023 Report Share Posted November 12, 2023 Hi everyone, over the winter I'd like to improve the originality of my TR2, and get the instruments (& maybe switches?) in the correct order. Please take a look at my cockpit: Fuel - Oil ------------------ Speedometer - Rev Counter Temp - Amp Is it correct that the following needs to be switched? Fuel <-> Oil Temp <-> Amp Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted November 12, 2023 Report Share Posted November 12, 2023 There is a parts diagram here. I can only presume it’s correct ? https://www.scparts.co.uk/sc_en/british-cars/triumph/triumph-tr2-to-tr4a-1953-1967/electrics-ignition-system-heating-and-dashboard/instruments-tr2-tr3-tr3a-and-tr3b.html Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 12, 2023 Report Share Posted November 12, 2023 Similar to Hamish's but the Moss version HERE Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tr2_applegreen Posted November 12, 2023 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2023 Thanks a lot, I just found it in Bill Pigott's Guide to Originality and it is consistent with both of your links. Thank you! Surprisingly, the Service Instruction Manual says in the Electrical Equipment chapter something differently??? Only Amps is on the same place here: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tr2_applegreen Posted November 12, 2023 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2023 Follow up question: Any hints how I can safely remove the temp-sensor? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted November 12, 2023 Report Share Posted November 12, 2023 Drain down the water level and remove the thermostat housing so that you can apply some pressure on the other side. Plus, when you have removed it, fit one of the Revington adapters. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tr2_applegreen Posted November 12, 2023 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2023 So, "pulling" is not an option? What is the Revington adapter for? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted November 12, 2023 Report Share Posted November 12, 2023 Be VERY careful how you handle it. It is extremely easy to break the capillary tube which most likely will have work-hardened - don't twist it or bend it sharply. Personally I would leave it alone. The dials on my '3A are arranged as per the service instruction manual. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted November 12, 2023 Report Share Posted November 12, 2023 25 minutes ago, tr2_applegreen said: So, "pulling" is not an option? What is the Revington adapter for? https://www.revingtontr.com/product/rtr8155/name/adaptor-male-female-brass Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted November 12, 2023 Report Share Posted November 12, 2023 fuel oil amps temp speedo revs is correct for RHD (as per your photo) Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted November 13, 2023 Report Share Posted November 13, 2023 12 hours ago, tr2_applegreen said: So, "pulling" is not an option? What is the Revington adapter for? Revington had no stock when I wanted them so I now make them. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted November 13, 2023 Report Share Posted November 13, 2023 12 hours ago, tr2_applegreen said: So, "pulling" is not an option? What is the Revington adapter for? It could take a day or two to complete the job. Do not get aggressive or it will break the bulb or the tube. Soaking in something like the de scaler for kettles and coffee makers may help to eat the corrosion away. After that soak with a penetrating oil like Kroil. rinse and repeat……. https://www.powertoolsdirect.com/kilrock-big-k-multi-purpose-descaler-400ml-5-dose-bottle?msclkid=c9591c5730f117b445957906d9500e86&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PMax%3A Google Shopping Smart&utm_term=4586612760171927&utm_content=Customer List https://www.kroil.com/ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tr2_applegreen Posted November 13, 2023 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2023 28 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: Revington had no stock when I wanted them so I now make them. this is awesome! I might contact you for one, if i manage the get the sensor out. Stupid question: I guess it does not make a difference, that with the adapter the sensor sits 1,5cm less deep in the housing? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted November 13, 2023 Report Share Posted November 13, 2023 The sensor is still touching the water in the engine Quote Link to post Share on other sites
roger murray-evans Posted November 13, 2023 Report Share Posted November 13, 2023 To man with no name! The layout for a RHD car, as per the original workshop manual Small dials panel: top left is fuel, bottom left is amps, top right is oil, bottom right is temp. Speedo nearest small dials and tach to the far right. From The TRA judging guide for LHD cars : far left is speedo then tach. Small dials are :top left oil, bottom left temp, top right fuel, bottom right amps. Things changed for TR3 around the TS10000 apparently! One also has to be very careful in understanding from which side of the dashboard i.e front or rear, the diagram is trying to confuse you from! I actually know nothing of any of this, just what I read! Cheers Roger M-E Quote Link to post Share on other sites
james christie Posted November 13, 2023 Report Share Posted November 13, 2023 There seem to be 2 subjects in this thread! For the temperature capillary sensor question, I have had good results in removing the housing and inverting it and then soaking the whole for two or three days in best 6° red wine vinegar. james For the gauge question: it’s more important to be able to see the oil pressure and temperature gauges, thus they are always closer to the driver for lhd and rhd. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tr2_applegreen Posted November 13, 2023 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2023 (edited) Thank you all! I managed to get it out, with some mixed spray (intended for my coffee machine), and some rust cracker spray. Gauge orientation is now clear to me, and makes sense ans you both @roger murray-evans and @james christie say: The more "urgent" ones on the driver side. Next challenge: The "frosted glas" around the gauges seems to be taped with a transparent piece of tape. However, it turned brownish after those years. How easily can I recondition this frosted glas? Edited November 13, 2023 by tr2_applegreen Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted November 13, 2023 Report Share Posted November 13, 2023 Its not glass round the gauge its a piece of plastic. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted November 13, 2023 Report Share Posted November 13, 2023 (edited) I have refurbished a number of these gauges. The plastic Stuart refers to usualy does not age well, it tends to shrink, go brittle, & as you have noticed goes frosty. I replace it with plastic cut from the clear packaging most non food items seem to come in these days. The plastic is usualy welded round the edge to keep the contents (small tools etc.) In place. Cuts easily with scissors, & there is usualy enough flat aea to do the job. Be very careful taking the gauges apart though, they can easily be damaged, especially the fuel gauge. Bob Edited November 13, 2023 by Lebro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted November 13, 2023 Report Share Posted November 13, 2023 6 hours ago, tr2_applegreen said: this is awesome! I might contact you for one, if i manage the get the sensor out. Stupid question: I guess it does not make a difference, that with the adapter the sensor sits 1,5cm less deep in the housing? I have one, and my temperature gauge works fine. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tr2_applegreen Posted November 17, 2023 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2023 A question about reassembling the oil gauge: Does the oil line or the gauge itself needs to be vented (meaning: getting the air out)? If yes, how to do it best? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
roy53 Posted November 17, 2023 Report Share Posted November 17, 2023 (edited) Others seem certain about the gauge position but that’s not how it is shown in the service manual wiring manual page 32 figure 34 Roy Edited November 17, 2023 by roy53 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted November 17, 2023 Report Share Posted November 17, 2023 2 hours ago, tr2_applegreen said: A question about reassembling the oil gauge: Does the oil line or the gauge itself needs to be vented (meaning: getting the air out)? If yes, how to do it best? No, it does not need bleeding at all. Pressure is pressure whether it is in oil or air. Difference between the braking system & the oil gauge is the the oil for the gauge just keeps on coming till the whole pipe (which could be half full of air), is at the end pressure. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted November 17, 2023 Report Share Posted November 17, 2023 1 hour ago, Lebro said: No, it does not need bleeding at all. Pressure is pressure whether it is in oil or air. Difference between the braking system & the oil gauge is the the oil for the gauge just keeps on coming till the whole pipe (which could be half full of air), is at the end pressure. Bob Bob is correct, but if you are fussy, crack open the connection at the gauge end with the engine running until the oil starts to drip out, at which point you have expelled all the air. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tr2_applegreen Posted November 17, 2023 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2023 Thanks a lot, @Ian Vincent and @Lebro! @roy53, Yes, there seems to be a discrepancy between the Service Manual and how cars have been produced (according to Bill Pigott and photos of unrestored TR2s. Here is an example of an unrestored TR2: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1955-triumph-tr2-3/ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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