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Warning Light for over drive.


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TR4A. I've had the car for about 3 months now, and now and again I've noticed it's in overdrive when I must have by accident knocked the switch.

So I decided to fit a warning light, I have already fitted a warning light for the electric fan but I had put that down usually were the radio is along with a fan switch. Not that easy to see.

So after much struggling I have managed to fit them were the ash tray was see picture below. I thought I had Identified the correct wire to tap into. I had to fit a new overdrive switch when I was changing the steering column bushes the old one dropped in bits. Using a test lamp Its the blackwire from the switch which goes to a yellow wire via a bullet connector.

The other wires yellow with green stripe goes to yellow with green stripe. At first the light worked in the garage then it didn't work, then it worked again:D having put all the dash back together I checked everything worked no panel lights soon sorted that and went out for a test drive No warning light again. The new one for the lecy fan works great. Came back checked all the connections Nothing. I have to say I have fitted LED warning lights I think they are brighter. Eventually I took the over Drive warning light out, thinking because I had to extend the wires I had maybe not made a clean joint. Couldnt get it to work even when I tried it across the battery but when I checked with my multi meter I have continuous connection from the positive lead thru the bulb then down the negative earth lead. Reading a very small amount of OHms resistance. Usually people would say you have the polarity the wrong way round but it intaily worked. The overdrive it self works fine. Is there something I don't know about LED and connections to Overdrive switches. 

Head lights having put everything back together I always check all the circuits lights horns etc I have the dipped beam offside headlight not working I have checked there is power in the wire were it goes into the bulb outer casing  the main beam works.So I presume its the dipped beam bulb that is not working. Presume they are just double filament, If I am changing one I might as well change both. Again whats the general opinion on LED head lights. I either do that or I am lucky a friend of mine has the agency for PIAA so I will get some upgraded bulbs from him, at some stage I will also wire relays in to help the power supply. Thanks for your help.

Phil

 

overdrive warning light.jpeg

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I have warning light for the o/d - in my case in a ready hole just to the right of the steering wheel on the dash

The overdrive wiring  comes in two directions to and from the relay to power the O/D . I simply used the power out of the relay to the O/D (solenoid) which should be yellow and purple.

At the gearbox cover where it has a bullet connection I use a double connector and add the wire to the light which is earthed

So Power to the solenoid also lights the dash light.

Hope this helps

Michael H

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As you have wired it - black wire from switch - that connection is to earth when in 2nd, 3rd, or 4th gear (via isolation switches)

You need to connect the -ve end of the LED lamp to the yellow green wire on the switch, & the +ve end to a green wire, which you can find on the instrument voltage stabilser, or the heater switch, or the lighting switch.

Or do as Phil has done & wire it across the solenoid.

Bob

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That ashtray use is a good idea. I did the same a few years ago. Better use than putting fag ends into it!

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i do quite a bit of night driving and found LED dash lights to bright/cold (not having a rheostat/not knowing if LED's would work with one anyway!) and so have stayed with the warmer, tungsten bulbs and added coloured vinyl to the bulb fitting to reduce glare etc. Its a fine line to get it right for day light running but it can be done.

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10 hours ago, Nigel C said:

...added coloured vinyl to the bulb...

Years ago I painted my instrument bulbs with a glass paint. It may have been this:

https://www.hobbycraft.co.uk/search/?q=Vitrea

All sorts of colours.

You could always paint each bulb a different colour for a fairground effect.

Charlie.

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To be honest I am underwhelmed with the brightness of the LED lights. What I had not thought about was the warning lights I wired into the Avenger were very bright maybe to bright the Avenger had a roof  but the TR doesn't or mostly doesn't have a roof on and out in it today in sunshine and rain :huh:the Fan warning light is barely visible I might have to rethink this again.

Phil.

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Hi Phil,

I have not used the usual automotive 12volt LED bulbs so don;t know the typical brightness.

However I do use Hi-Brite LED's for electronics projects and they will imprint on the  back of your brain.

On my OD the LED is bright in sunlight and needs to be cut back for night driving.

 

Roger

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I think you can get white LED's and some that are not so bright, I use these people  https://www.bettercarlighting.co.uk/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=507

You have to get a special one for the alternator bulb, and the indicator ones as they need to be + either way, or they do on the TR5.

John

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OK thanks. I at some stage will fit a oil pressure warning light as well. I was thinking of maybe redoing and recessing   it into the the ash tray holder so It might get some shade.

I bought them from Car Builder solution I might have a word with them on Monday they are usually good with advice. 

Phil 

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19 hours ago, phil Dean said:

OK thanks. I at some stage will fit a oil pressure warning light as well. I was thinking of maybe redoing and recessing   it into the the ash tray holder so It might get some shade.

I bought them from Car Builder solution I might have a word with them on Monday they are usually good with advice. 

Phil 

Oil pressure warning is a light that needs to be noticed. 
i use this one - it’s bright !!

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281825852424?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=XAy7lhFxQQK&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=33-Tg7STSaq&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

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Back on this one again I have done as Bob suggested, wiredthe + Ve to the heater switch (the instrument voltage stabilizer is a more modern one and has already been piggy backed off so didn't want to piggy back of a piggy back !!) the-ve I have wired to the yellow and green wires still no light. I has occured to me because this is a LED and they always say they should have a seperate earth should I also earth it to the body !!!!!

Another thought is should I actually be driving the car. I have got the light to work intermittently by using the probe of my test lamp and I can hear the solenoid clicking in and out as I say sometimes it works sometimes it doesnt.using this method but haven't driven it yet.

Second question does anybody know the wire colour for the headlight flash I have looked at my wiring diagram but can't seem to find it my headlight flash is not working.

Phil.

Edited by phil Dean
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30 minutes ago, phil Dean said:

I has occured to me because this is a LED and they always say they should have a seperate earth should I also earth it to the body !!!!!

No  - it should be getting an earth from the YG wire when the OD switch and interlocks are 'made'.  

Headlamp flash is a green/brown wire from the second fuse which joins to a brown wire to the flash switch and then a brown/blue from the switch to a bullet connector where it joins the blue wires to the dip-switch. 

 

fsw.jpg.1e011d94eb23c0728a40da11824247a2.jpg

Edited by RobH
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4 minutes ago, phil Dean said:

I've taken it out for a drive tonight and the LED for the overdrive still is not working.

Basically the lamp is in parallel with the overdrive relay. If the overdrive is working then all that can be wrong is the wiring connections to the lamp, or the power pick-off point you have used  (supposing that the lamp itself is OK of course).

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On 8/3/2023 at 5:39 PM, phil Dean said:

To be honest I am underwhelmed with the brightness of the LED lights. What I had not thought about was the warning lights I wired into the Avenger were very bright maybe to bright the Avenger had a roof  but the TR doesn't or mostly doesn't have a roof on and out in it today in sunshine and rain :huh:the Fan warning light is barely visible I might have to rethink this again.

Phil.

Phil

Same issue re modest brightness when I wired an O/D warning light into my 3A. Used a green lamp holder and a white LED. Underwhelming. Swapped for a green LED. Way brighter even when roof down. Worth a try.

Miles

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An incandescent bulb produces light over a wide spectrum so whatever the colour  filter you use the light is reasonably bright.   LEDs are not like that. They produce light only on narrow bands of wavelength i.e. a red LED produces little or no blue or green light, a green one no red etc. White LEDs are actually a blue one with some amount of reddish phosphor added.  The upshot is you cannot put a different-colour filter on an LED and expect it to be bright. 

Edited by RobH
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