david c Posted October 28, 2022 Report Share Posted October 28, 2022 I'm really sorry I'm sure this has been asked many times before, but I can not find the answer I need. The last set I fitted less then a thousand miles ago have wrecked the rubber boots by rubbing against the disk brake shields. The trouble is the more I tighten the bolt on the taper the more the rubber flattens and rubs. Am I doing something wrong? Short of cutting off some of the disk shield what can I do. Thank you for all and any advise. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harrytr5 Posted October 28, 2022 Report Share Posted October 28, 2022 1 hour ago, david c said: I'm really sorry I'm sure this has been asked many times before, but I can not find the answer I need. The last set I fitted less then a thousand miles ago have wrecked the rubber boots by rubbing against the disk brake shields. The trouble is the more I tighten the bolt on the taper the more the rubber flattens and rubs. Am I doing something wrong? Short of cutting off some of the disk shield what can I do. Thank you for all and any advise. I don't understand. You torque up the nut on the track rod end and that is that. Have you had the tracking done? Lock stop's fitted? Regards Harry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
david c Posted October 28, 2022 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2022 The "problem" I have is when I tighten up the nylock nut it pulls in the taper and squashes the rubber gatter flat thus increasing it's diameter to the point where it touches the disk brake stone guard with the obvious result. No I haven't yet had the tracking done, I'm trying to get it at least roughly right before i take it to the proper garage. Lock stops? This is something I am unaware of...............please expand. Thank you for your interest. David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted October 28, 2022 Report Share Posted October 28, 2022 (edited) Sounds as though you may have aftermarket TREs ( or just the gaiters? ) which are too big in diameter compared to the original fitment. The clearance is tight but they shouldn't touch. I don't think tracking adjustment or the lock stops will affect the problem you describe - the stops just prevent excessive steering movement. The disc shield doesn't do much and can be modified or discarded altogether with no ill effect. Sidescreen owners who fit the modified steering arms which fix the Akermann angle, have similar clearance problems because the TRE is moved closer to the shield. Some just leave them off. Edited October 28, 2022 by RobH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Malbaby Posted October 28, 2022 Report Share Posted October 28, 2022 Agree with RobH. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted October 29, 2022 Report Share Posted October 29, 2022 Dave, The conical end should be tightened (torqued) to the specified value in the WSM, not less; as a result, the gaiter is compressed and thats normal, it is pushed to its normal working position. You can order gaiters separately from a company in the UK, they will have the correct one for this application, and will last longer than many repro items sold nowadays. Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted October 29, 2022 Report Share Posted October 29, 2022 9 hours ago, RobH said: Sounds as though you may have aftermarket TREs ( or just the gaiters? ) which are too big in diameter compared to the original fitment. The clearance is tight but they shouldn't touch. I don't think tracking adjustment or the lock stops will affect the problem you describe - the stops just prevent excessive steering movement. The disc shield doesn't do much and can be modified or discarded altogether with no ill effect. Sidescreen owners who fit the modified steering arms which fix the Akermann angle, have similar clearance problems because the TRE is moved closer to the shield. Some just leave them off. Yep, lock stops won't effect the clearance. I discarded my shields when I fitted the Revingtons steering arms for that reason. I suspect your TRE's simply have a larger rubber gaiter that normal. Either change them, or the rubber part, or dump the shield. (It's a pain to re-fit anyway) Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted October 29, 2022 Report Share Posted October 29, 2022 Something isnt right if your gaiters are touching the back plates as there should be a cutout on the back plate to stop this happening. https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/brake-system/front-brakes/front-brakes-tr2-4a.html Can you put up a picture? Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
david c Posted October 29, 2022 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2022 The "problem" I have is when I tighten up the nylock nut it pulls in the taper and squashes the rubber gatter flat thus increasing it's diameter to the point where it touches the disk brake stone guard with the obvious result. No I haven't yet had the tracking done, I'm trying to get it at least roughly right before i take it to the proper garage. Lock stops? This is something I am unaware of...............please expand. Thank you for your interest. David Thank you all for your input, I have torqued up to the 55 lbs recommended in the WSM and the gaters are now as flat as a pancake but not quite touching the backplates I have approx 2mm clearance. There is indeed a cut out on the backplate, without which the rubber would certainly be in contact. I assume as there is no contact now there never should be? I'm going to book in for an alignment check and talk to them about the situation but I doubt they will be able to offer any solutions but at least I will have correct tracking. Thanks again for your help and advise. David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 29, 2022 Report Share Posted October 29, 2022 (edited) Hi David, see item #84 for the steering stop. Stop Can you supply a pic of your gaiter problem. Roger Edited October 30, 2022 by RogerH typo Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ralph Whitaker Posted October 30, 2022 Report Share Posted October 30, 2022 I bought a pair of top ball joints for my Vitesse on which the gaiters were a translucent plastic material which just cracked and disintegrated while the car was in the garage. Changed for items with rubber seals and they have lasted years. It could just be that the seals are made from an inferior material and I would try to find some replacement seals if the track rod ends are ok otherwise. I have a pair of TR4 backplates which I had powder coated to use on my TR3, as I was going to fit the later calipers, but in the end used standard calipers and backplates. As they were to hand I have put a photo on here so you can compare with yours. Other problem with having a hole in the backplate is it allows the heat from the disc to reach the rubber seal, which probably also has a degrading effect on inferior seals. Ralph Quote Link to post Share on other sites
john.r.davies Posted October 30, 2022 Report Share Posted October 30, 2022 On my Vitesse, I have TREs without rubber boots, with an all metal enclosure, and with a grease nipple. They were for the Standard Vanguard, and fit exactly, they might on a TR? If you can get some. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ralph Whitaker Posted October 30, 2022 Report Share Posted October 30, 2022 (edited) 30 minutes ago, john.r.davies said: On my Vitesse, I have TREs without rubber boots, with an all metal enclosure, and with a grease nipple. They were for the Standard Vanguard, and fit exactly, they might on a TR? If you can get some. John I have never seen anything like that. No rubber seal at all? I have 2 Hillmans, one a 1938 and the other a 1948, and although they do not have a fixed seal, they each have a sort of top hat affair which goes over the tapered pin and pushes up to the ball joint to at least give some rudimentary protection to the joint, are you sure your Vanguard joints should not have something like that too. Ralph Actually found a Vanguard track rod end for sale on ebay, and it has exactly the rubber seal I was refering to. Edited October 30, 2022 by Ralph Whitaker Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted October 30, 2022 Report Share Posted October 30, 2022 (edited) 1 hour ago, john.r.davies said: On my Vitesse, I have TREs without rubber boots, with an all metal enclosure, and with a grease nipple. They were for the Standard Vanguard, and fit exactly, they might on a TR? If you can get some. John Those TREs we used to sell, they were specified for Scandinavian spec Spitfire/GT6/Herald/Vitesse. and other SC models of the period. Used to sell them to racers as the heat from the brake discs in competition was said to melt the rubber boots. Edited October 30, 2022 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted October 30, 2022 Report Share Posted October 30, 2022 36 minutes ago, Ralph Whitaker said: I have never seen anything like that. No rubber seal at all? I have 2 Hillmans, one a 1938 and the other a 1948, and although they do not have a fixed seal, they each have a sort of top hat affair which goes over the tapered pin and pushes up to the ball joint to at least give some rudimentary protection to the joint, are you sure your Vanguard joints should not have something like that too. Ralph Actually found a Vanguard track rod end for sale on ebay, and it has exactly the rubber seal I was refering to. That Top Hat type seal was often found on Quinton Hazel steering joints. I have a couple of QH top ball joints from my TR2 with that type of seal fitted somewhere in the shed….. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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