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Keeping to original spec


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If you have a car which is still in original spec with a horizontal oil filter, would you change it to a spin on filter or keep it original? Everything else on the car is original.  The premise is that everything is in perfect working order. 
SWS 

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29 minutes ago, Swscar said:

If you have a car which is still in original spec with a horizontal oil filter, would you change it to a spin on filter or keep it original? Everything else on the car is original.  The premise is that everything is in perfect working order. 
SWS 

 

Hi Swscar.

The trouble is with the horizontal filter is that the oil drains back out of it into the sump when the engine is stopped. Then you start the engine, and it can run up to 15 seconds without oil or oil pressure at the crank bearings which is not a very good idea as it shortens the life of the engine!!!! Therefore, replace with a spin on and bin the horizonal one.

Bruce.

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The question is who are you asking for. If you are planning to sell it to a concours fan or show it that class you will want it original, others will want small improvements. If you are the former leave it alone. I’m very much in favour of the improvements within reason. I bonnet bulge is right out but improving the startup oiling, LED bulbs and a bigger alternator make perfect sense to me. 

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I am a great stickler for originality, always have been , always will be. However mentioned above are the reasons you should use the spin on conversion. I for one would do it every time, the empty horizontal cannister oil drain is a thing you should avoid. You can always retro-fit the original if required.

Alan G

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With all due respect , I know about the spin on conversion, my question was not is it worth doing, but how much more, or less, desirable is a completely untouched car, excepting normal servicing and relevant replacement of worn out components with equivalent new ones. 
My question is will a perfectly working car in first class condition, but as it came from the factory, more desirable than one, in the same condition but with lots of mods. 
SWS 

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My question is will a perfectly working car in first class condition, but as it came from the factory, more desirable than one, in the same condition but with lots of mods. 
SWS 

Would those modifications include converting a LH drive to RH drive?

Regards

Bill 

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1 hour ago, Swscar said:

With all due respect , I know about the spin on conversion, my question was not is it worth doing, but how much more, or less, desirable is a completely untouched car, excepting normal servicing and relevant replacement of worn out components with equivalent new ones. 
My question is will a perfectly working car in first class condition, but as it came from the factory, more desirable than one, in the same condition but with lots of mods. 
SWS 

With equal respect, It depends on who you’re selling it to. I don't want a concours car with brake pad knock back, questionable crank thrust bearing arrangement, 1970 brakes, Licas mechanical injection and points based ignition, so I spent a vast amount of money on not having those and other assorted  “original features”. Others will insist on all of the above being left alone and pay more to not have them changed. There is no simple answer.

 

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So? I've owned my car over 50 years, and like originality too, but it became a bit of a faff to dig out the 'O' ring and clean out the bowl and all the bits on the bolt. Then there's the chance albeit small of cross threading it! After reading about the oil flow back here that was it for me so I decided to add a Spin on! It's not as if the original stock horizontal bowl can't be refitted if needs beat any time...So I just cleaned the old bowl and put it in my spares cupboard, together with all the other old original parts, like the original 15" steering wheel etc. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Why is this even a question? As Andy said, keep the original and you can swap before each potential buyer comes to see the car. And the same can be said, to a degree, for so many improvements. I've kept my original (50yr-old) steering rack in case somebody wants to make "my" car less drivable in the interests of originality by removing the power steering. And I've kept the old seats, oil filter housing, Lucas fuel pump, engine-driven fan, headlight bulbs, instrument non-light bulbs, etc. You get my drift. If it's reversible and the parts come with the car then I'm struggling to understand the point of the question. But YMMV.

JohnC

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3 hours ago, JohnC said:

Why is this even a question? As Andy said, keep the original and you can swap before each potential buyer comes to see the car. And the same can be said, to a degree, for so many improvements. I've kept my original (50yr-old) steering rack in case somebody wants to make "my" car less drivable in the interests of originality by removing the power steering. And I've kept the old seats, oil filter housing, Lucas fuel pump, engine-driven fan, headlight bulbs, instrument non-light bulbs, etc. You get my drift. If it's reversible and the parts come with the car then I'm struggling to understand the point of the question. But YMMV.

JohnC

I've got a house full of original bits. My missus is starting to complain!

Cheers, Richard

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Keeping a car "original" as an historic vehicle is defined by FIVA in its Charter of Turin

https://fiva.org/en/?s=charter+of+turin&post_type[]=any&search_limit_to_post_titles=0&fs=1&lang=en

They expect the paint to be original and confirmed by microscope analysis.

I'd not be surprised if use of out-of-period silicone wax would be seen by FIVA as destroying historical status!

In short, FIVA would eliminate almost all "original" TRs from historical status. Museum specimens kept under wraps from new might qualify.

Everywhere's too far in a museum's TR.

 

Peter

 

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