earckens Posted July 13, 2021 Report Share Posted July 13, 2021 (edited) Even after a short (5km's) run, the left front brake disk is very hot, and the wheel is not running free when mounted on a bridge. I just renewed brake oil (dot4) and the brakes work very well, but the left disk seems stuck. What are your suggestions? Greetings, Erik Arckens PS: this is for TR4 1964, as original Edited July 13, 2021 by earckens clarification Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted July 13, 2021 Report Share Posted July 13, 2021 21 minutes ago, earckens said: Even after a short (5km's) run, the left front brake disk is very hot, and the wheel is not running free when mounted on a bridge. I just renewed brake oil (dot4) and the brakes work very well, but the left disk seems stuck. What are your suggestions? Greetings, Erik Arckens Flexible brake hose collapsing internally. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
earckens Posted July 13, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2021 Hi Stuart, thank you for your reply! Do you refer to the hose (which has braided steel armour) towards the caliper? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
earckens Posted July 13, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2021 Would this be the one: https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/brake-hose-girling-stainless-steel-braided-tt3142.html While ordering, what else should I get replaced? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted July 13, 2021 Report Share Posted July 13, 2021 both sides Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted July 13, 2021 Report Share Posted July 13, 2021 19 minutes ago, earckens said: Would this be the one: https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/brake-hose-girling-stainless-steel-braided-tt3142.html While ordering, what else should I get replaced? If your having a problem with one I would go for replacing the pair Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted July 13, 2021 Report Share Posted July 13, 2021 +2 Both sides removes the doubts. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
boxofbits Posted July 13, 2021 Report Share Posted July 13, 2021 In addition to above, you might also check the Caliper pistons or the pads in the body of the caliper are not seizing, especially if you’ve bled and pumped the brakes quite hard. Kevin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted July 13, 2021 Report Share Posted July 13, 2021 Go for all three. Do the rear one while you have the desire to replace bleed the entire system Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
earckens Posted July 13, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2021 10 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: Go for all three. Do the rear one while you have the desire to replace bleed the entire system Peter W All three? You mean: 1. Flex hose 2. Caliper piston 3. Caliper pad ..for both sides? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ntc Posted July 13, 2021 Report Share Posted July 13, 2021 You have shimmed the callipers so they are true to the disks? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
earckens Posted July 13, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2021 2 minutes ago, ntc said: You have shimmed the callipers so they are true to the disks? To be honest I am not sure what you mean? Can you please explain? Fact is that I have not done anything to the braking system apart from brake oil purge, and the brakes had been doing fine for years. I realise there might have been degradation I had not been aware of until just now. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Quicksilver Posted July 13, 2021 Report Share Posted July 13, 2021 27 minutes ago, earckens said: All three? You mean: 1. Flex hose 2. Caliper piston 3. Caliper pad ..for both sides? all three flex hose; 2 in front, 1 for the rear-axle marcel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ralph Whitaker Posted July 14, 2021 Report Share Posted July 14, 2021 In all my years I have never encountered a collapsed hose, and I have run some dubious stuff in my time, but I have had plenty of seized caliper pistons, especially in cars that get little use. I would be taking the pads out first and checking that the pistons move freely before suspecting the hoses. Ralph Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted July 14, 2021 Report Share Posted July 14, 2021 This was my previous Daimler SP250 callipers that worked ok with the old pads as it works operating with the non rusted part of the piston. when I went to fit new pads you can guess I had issues pushing the pistons back. All hidden behind the rubbers gators. The rust would have ruined the rubber seals in the calliper body. So new stainless rebuild kit sorted it. this was just after a hose collapsed that virtually locked the nsf and cooked a disc. I learnt a lot !! Erik all the above posts are great advice. i understand all you have done is change the brake fluid but sometimes the jobs we do can trigger another issue that seems to be old cars for you !! I would start with a check for the free movement of the pads in the calliper they should slide fairly smoothly on the calliper surface / pins by hand then check pistons move in and out but be carful that you don’t pump them out too much that you can’t get something in between to push them back again. then the hoses , but you say you have braided ? These should be better than standard but how old are they ? some food for thought. H Quote Link to post Share on other sites
earckens Posted July 14, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2021 The brake hoses are braided, but I have no idea how old they are; certainly more than 5 years (the time I bought the car). Ok, I will take down the brake calipers and inspect the pistons etc.. Question: how best to avoid draining brake fluid all over the place when disconnecting the upper part of the braided hose? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ctc77965o Posted July 14, 2021 Report Share Posted July 14, 2021 If its braided-type hose then AFAIK they dont 'block internally', so your issue is most likely a partially seized caliper. How to stop the fluid draining out? 1) Put 'Cling Film" from the kitchen over the top of the master cylinder and loosely fit the cap on-top. 2) Find a rubber cap or plastic cap of a pen that will fit over the ~11mm end of the flex hose when you remove it from the caliper. Getting a seized piston out of the caliper is difficult...Make an adapter and use your grease-gun to force them out (its messy but safe - no risk of something going bang)... likely the piston is corroded, it can be cleaned-up but will corrode again. Consider a full kit from Bigg Red with new stainless pistons https://www.ebay.com/itm/283802279001?hash=item4213ef1c59:g:e4QAAOSwPhdU-DCs Or just buy a whole new caliper (take care to get the one with the imperial flex hose connection -- NOT metric!) https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/brake-calipers-tr4-6.html Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted July 14, 2021 Report Share Posted July 14, 2021 A couple of years ago, David Ferry was selling calipers, fully reconditioned by Big Red, at a very competitive rate - might be worth sending him a PM in case he has some remaining. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
earckens Posted July 14, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2021 This is what I found: looking at the surface border of this piston it seems to have been battered, so most likely this problem is not new. Now trying to extrude these pistons . Quote Link to post Share on other sites
earckens Posted July 14, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2021 1 hour ago, ianc said: A couple of years ago, David Ferry was selling calipers, fully reconditioned by Big Red, at a very competitive rate - might be worth sending him a PM in case he has some remaining. Ian Cornish Hi Ian, thanks for your info; how could I get hold of David Ferry? Grts, Erik Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ntc Posted July 14, 2021 Report Share Posted July 14, 2021 22 minutes ago, earckens said: This is what I found: looking at the surface border of this piston it seems to have been battered, so most likely this problem is not new. Now trying to extrude these pistons . That will be of no detriment are the pads worn even? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
earckens Posted July 14, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2021 4 minutes ago, ntc said: That will be of no detriment are the pads worn even? Yes, I think they are; even front-back, up-down. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ntc Posted July 14, 2021 Report Share Posted July 14, 2021 They look good so check the run out of the disks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
earckens Posted July 14, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2021 23 minutes ago, ntc said: They look good so check the run out of the disks That too is good: no ridges, even wear although there is virtually none (no ridge on the edges) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ntc Posted July 14, 2021 Report Share Posted July 14, 2021 But do they run true? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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