Tim T Posted April 21, 2021 Report Share Posted April 21, 2021 Hoping to take the 5 out for it’s first proper road trip for over 40 years and so need to do final tighten on front wishbones/trunnions etc. When I did my 3a I remember tightening the castellated nuts up and then backing off a flat or so and inserting the split pin. Haynes manual confirms this as does a friend but blue version of the brown book says torque it to 50 to 65 lbs. Which is correct? Thanks Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted April 21, 2021 Report Share Posted April 21, 2021 Hi Tim, wouldn't the range 50 - 65 lbs.ft allow the hole to align. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
roy53 Posted April 21, 2021 Report Share Posted April 21, 2021 Hope you don't meen the wheel bearing ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim T Posted April 21, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2021 31 minutes ago, roy53 said: Hope you don't meen the wheel bearing ? Definitely not. Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim T Posted April 21, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2021 52 minutes ago, RogerH said: Hi Tim, wouldn't the range 50 - 65 lbs.ft allow the hole to align. Roger Haven’t tried yet Roger. Just thought that 50-65 was quite tight. Interested why Haynes just said ‘until secure’ and the book gave a figure. Thanks anyway Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted April 21, 2021 Report Share Posted April 21, 2021 (edited) TR2/3/4 front suspension trunion to outer lower wishbone arrangement is completely different TR4A/250/5/6 Torquing the nut and bolt that holds the wishbones to the trunion on the TR4A/250/5/6 is correct. Failure to tighten said nut and bolt and the bolt will rotate in the trunion rather than the steel bushes mounted on the bolt rotating in the top hat shaped nylon bushes pushed in the wishbone outer eye. Peter W Edited April 21, 2021 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Morrison Posted April 22, 2021 Report Share Posted April 22, 2021 Read somewhere once that the correct procedure when torquing down to a given , and then needing to insert a split pin, use a shim washer under the nut to combine the correct torque and align the hole for the split pin, if needed John. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted April 22, 2021 Report Share Posted April 22, 2021 11 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: TR2/3/4 front suspension trunion to outer lower wishbone arrangement is completely different TR4A/250/5/6 Torquing the nut and bolt that holds the wishbones to the trunion on the TR4A/250/5/6 is correct. Failure to tighten said nut and bolt and the bolt will rotate in the trunion rather than the steel bushes mounted on the bolt rotating in the top hat shaped nylon bushes pushed in the wishbone outer eye. Peter W Correct and make sure that the flats are aligned parallel to the brake disc to stop them wearing a groove in the back of the disc. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim T Posted April 22, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2021 All done and sorted to correct torque settings. Many thanks Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rjs993 Posted June 10, 2021 Report Share Posted June 10, 2021 Kind of related issue:). Squeaky front suspension (when driving or bounced when stationary). I have recently fitted new wishbone bushes ... could it be the shock absorber is just caput? Thanks Robert Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted June 10, 2021 Report Share Posted June 10, 2021 Yes, kaputt shock absorbers has been the reason on my TR4A for horrible squeaking Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted June 10, 2021 Report Share Posted June 10, 2021 and /or dry bushes Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rjs993 Posted June 10, 2021 Report Share Posted June 10, 2021 Thanks both. Q1: Did you replace the shocks with standard or adjustable? If adjustable which ones did you go for and did you notice any difference? Q2: Do you mean dry bushes on the shock absorbers? Cheers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted June 10, 2021 Report Share Posted June 10, 2021 Robert - Could also be dry bushes on the wishbones as you say they are new even the poly bush type need their grease. but yes also shocker bottom bush. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Will Posted June 10, 2021 Report Share Posted June 10, 2021 Tim, you were lucky. Some of the repair kits are incorrectly toleranced and if correctly torqued the joint will lock. When I checked with the supplier he said everyone just backs the nut off until the the joint is free. This is not the right answer! Those bad kits can be rescued with appropriate shims but suppliers generally just carry on as usual. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted June 10, 2021 Report Share Posted June 10, 2021 Hi Robert, put your old shock absorbers out, prsss and pull them and you will hear. I don't like strong shock absorbers and - in my opinion the adjustable Spax and Koni are both to strong even when adjusted low. So I went back to a pair of old Monroe (B) "Radial Matic R2548", a period spare part. I got them from a friend as a present (he changed to Spax, and my Spax went in the bin) and they do a lovely job. Ciao, Marco. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rjs993 Posted June 15, 2021 Report Share Posted June 15, 2021 Thanks everyone. I have removed the shock absorber and it can be moved in/out fairly easily. It looks "OK" ... if a little tired. More importantly though when the car is lowered to the ground (with shocker removed) and bounced on the spring it still squeaks/creaks as before. So .... I am guessing it must be a bush somewhere! I will grease everything today and see if I can find the source. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted June 15, 2021 Report Share Posted June 15, 2021 4 minutes ago, rjs993 said: Thanks everyone. I have removed the shock absorber and it can be moved in/out fairly easily. It looks "OK" ... if a little tired. More importantly though when the car is lowered to the ground (with shocker removed) and bounced on the spring it still squeaks/creaks as before. So .... I am guessing it must be a bush somewhere! I will grease everything today and see if I can find the source. PTFE Spray is good for that. It could also be spring insulators worn through BTW. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rjs993 Posted June 18, 2021 Report Share Posted June 18, 2021 Related topic! I discovered while stripping the suspension that the upper ball joint rubber gaiter is missing the retaining clip (so grease leaks everywhere). I have since learned that these are unavailable (according to Rimmer, Revington and Moss). Has anyone come up with a clever solution for this? Apparently "lock wire" can be used but this is new to me. Thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted June 18, 2021 Report Share Posted June 18, 2021 5 minutes ago, rjs993 said: Related topic! I discovered while stripping the suspension that the upper ball joint rubber gaiter is missing the retaining clip (so grease leaks everywhere). I have since learned that these are unavailable (according to Rimmer, Revington and Moss). Has anyone come up with a clever solution for this? Apparently "lock wire" can be used but this is new to me. Thanks A couple of ball joints on Ebay look as if they have a plastic tie holding them together. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted June 19, 2021 Report Share Posted June 19, 2021 16 hours ago, rjs993 said: Related topic! I discovered while stripping the suspension that the upper ball joint rubber gaiter is missing the retaining clip (so grease leaks everywhere). I have since learned that these are unavailable (according to Rimmer, Revington and Moss). Has anyone come up with a clever solution for this? Apparently "lock wire" can be used but this is new to me. Thanks Lock wire would work . Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted June 19, 2021 Report Share Posted June 19, 2021 28 minutes ago, stuart said: Lock wire would work . Stuart. Also a thin lock tie works well as long as it will fit snugly behind the ball joint lip, it’s standard supply on many newer fits. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Pope Posted June 19, 2021 Report Share Posted June 19, 2021 On 6/10/2021 at 8:53 PM, Hamish said: Robert - Could also be dry bushes on the wishbones as you say they are new even the poly bush type need their grease. but yes also shocker bottom bush. Official Polybush instructions say "Use only soapy water or tyre soap to insert Polybushes. " as this allows the bush to dry out. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted June 19, 2021 Report Share Posted June 19, 2021 Ok. Yes follow the suppliers instructions then. mine came with a little foil sachet of like silicon grease Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rjs993 Posted June 22, 2021 Report Share Posted June 22, 2021 I think I will just fit new upper ball joints as I don't know how old the current ones are and the new ones come with gaiters fitted. Another question: What are the views on whether tball joints with or without grease nipples are the best? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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