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  1. Thanks everyone the support has been fantastic. Prompted by the comments above I took a close look at the damper on the workbench (waiting to be fitted to the other side). No flats ... but it does have a very clever allen-key cut out in the center of the shaft. Very effective it must be said! It would have been nice if this had been mentioned in the paperwork that came with the damper though! Till the next time. Thanks again. Robert
  2. Well ... I am please to report a small success as after a lot of fiddling around I have managed to fit one of the dampers. Sadly however the "two steps forward one back" principle has raised its head as when I came to tighten the nut on the top of the damper the entire shaft (on the damper) is turning so it will not tighten. It is an adjustable Gaz damper and comes with a nyloc nut on the top which of course grips the shaft and hence contributing to the problem. Not standard part I know but any suggestions as to how to get the nut tightened (preferably without taking it off again!) are
  3. Great solution Peter W. That will do the trick for sure.
  4. Thanks everyone. I think the various messages above have highlighted the problem which is that a spring compressor cannot be used as it uses the space where the damper/shock absorber normally sits. Removal of the damper all went to plan and without hitch. The issue is with reassembly and with everything else assembled on the car .... how can the spring be compressed enough to allow the damper to be fitted? The answer as I had been wrestling with seems to be to use the cars weight to compress the spring but as explained this needs the grease nipple to be removed and the careful positionin
  5. Hi, I have just fitted new bushes to the front suspension of my TR4 and the only thing left to do is fit the (new) shock absorbers. Simple you may say but please share the secret of how to get that fiddly bracket on the studs and the top nut fitted! I guess the spring needs to be compressed with a jack underneath? Where to put the jack though that will not break something (e.g. grease nipples) or obstruct the shock absorbers from entering from underneath the spring. Thanks Robert
  6. Hi, I am fitting new top ball joints to a 1964 TR4 front suspension and need help with a couple of (related) questions! How do you stop the ball joint turning as the nut is tightened (to attach the ball joint to the vertical link)? If this needs the taper to seat in the vertical link to stop it turning .... how is this done? Thanks Robert
  7. Hi, Q: Is there a right / wrong way to fit the thrust washers or can they face either way (presumably they are not bi-metallic)? Also ... should I grease the thrust washers during assembly or should they be left dry and clean? Thanks Robert
  8. Hi, Q: Is there a right and wrong way around to fit the thrust washers or can they face either way (which may be the case unless they are bi-metallic)? BTW ... should I grease the thrust washers or should they be dry and clean? Thanks Robert
  9. Thanks for the feedback. Makes sense. So, presumably it is best to leave things as they are? Should I expect the other side to be set up in the same way? Thanks again. Robert
  10. Help! When I removed the lower wishbone nearest the bulkhead (passenger side - RHD car) I discovered that there are TWO thrust washers fitted next to each other. This was a surprise as I expected one as had been the case on the other wishbone (on that side). Anyone any idea why this would be? Thanks Robert
  11. Thanks Andy, That was indeed the answer! Some general encouragement to part company with surrounding components .... with the aid of a large hammer:). The first wishbone is now released. I wonder if you help me with a related question (which I am about to post another cry for help on the forum about)? When I removed the lower wishbone nearest the bulkhead I discovered that there are TWO thrust washers fitted next to each other. This was a surprise as I expected only one as had been the case on the other wishbone. Thoughts? Thanks Robert
  12. Any suggestions as to how best to release the wishbones from the lower fulcrum pin / chassis mounting points (to fit new poly bushes)? They just seem solid! Thanks
  13. Hi, Q: When fitting a poly bush to the bottom of a front shock absorber (Gaz adjustable) on a TR4 should silicon grease be applied to the outside of the bush (the part that is in contact with the shocker)? Opinion seems to swing between "silicon grease should only be applied to the inside surface" (i.e. the hole in the bush) and the alternate view which is "apply a thin layer of silicon grease to the outside of the bush to help fitting and to avoid squeaking". Views please? Thanks Robert
  14. I think I will just fit new upper ball joints as I don't know how old the current ones are and the new ones come with gaiters fitted. Another question: What are the views on whether tball joints with or without grease nipples are the best?
  15. Related topic! I discovered while stripping the suspension that the upper ball joint rubber gaiter is missing the retaining clip (so grease leaks everywhere). I have since learned that these are unavailable (according to Rimmer, Revington and Moss). Has anyone come up with a clever solution for this? Apparently "lock wire" can be used but this is new to me. Thanks
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