Efuentes Posted February 16, 2021 Report Share Posted February 16, 2021 Dear members, I own a 1966 TR4A with solid rear axle. The rubber bushing that holds the screw that links the rear damper arm to the rear axle is worn and makes a clunking noise when driving. I ordered a new link (the bushing cannot be ordered separately) but, when I tried to remove the old one, the screw would not come out from the damper arm. I hit it with a mallet, but it does not move. I did not insist, as I got concerned that it may be threaded into the damper arm (which would not make a lot of sense, but you never know and I want to avoid damage to the damper lever. I tried to see if there is a way to unscrew it but it does not have anywhere to adjust a spanner (it is round) and the link does turn 360 degrees on the bolt, so I cannot use it to turn the screw. I even tried tonuse two bolts on the threaded side to turn the screw, but the length of the screw is insufficient to fit two bolts... I was wondering if anyone with a similar car has ever dissembled this and could provide guidance... I attach pictures (I disassembled the damper from the chassis to inspect the link more closely) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Efuentes Posted February 16, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2021 The link is #23 in the attached moss Europe chart and the screw that is stuck is the upper one Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AndyR100 Posted February 16, 2021 Report Share Posted February 16, 2021 I haven’t got identical setup (I have a 4) but I would expect this kind of splitter would do the job: https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cht222-ball-joint-remover/ ...... Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Adam Blackaby Posted February 16, 2021 Report Share Posted February 16, 2021 Hi From memory, try hitting the arm on both sides of the taper link at the same time. Sometimes this is enough to break the connection. Heat, or wd40 beforehand might help. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bfg Posted February 16, 2021 Report Share Posted February 16, 2021 (edited) Looks as if you ought to fit a puller or splitter to it, or alternatively to fit it into a vice (after cutting off the ball or else configuring suitable blocks around the link arm) to push it out, perhaps with a powerful blowtorch to heat / expand the surrounding trunnion. Alternatively welding on a nut onto the thread will give you something to turn, and again the heat may help break the rusted tight socket. Pete. Edited February 16, 2021 by Bfg Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Efuentes Posted February 16, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2021 Many thanks to all of you... I guess that I will have to apply force,pp as everyone's responses seem to confirm that the screw goes through but is not screwed in the damper arm (which would not make sense). By the way, forgot to introduce myself. My name is Enrique and I live in Madrid. Many thanks again Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AndyR100 Posted February 16, 2021 Report Share Posted February 16, 2021 Bienvenido Enrique, Good luck splitting the joint, it should come apart with a bit more force (and possibly some heat as others have said) ....... Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rcreweread Posted February 16, 2021 Report Share Posted February 16, 2021 Enrique - it is a taper fit in the lever arm, arm - it is not screwed in - you need to get two large hammers and simultaneously hit either side of the arm - the shock should separate the two items - don't use heat as it's not necessary and you could easily damage the lever arms seals. Pullers probably won't pull it apart - you can put tension on the joint with the pullers and then do the shock trick - it will come apart - have a look on Youtube how to do it as I'm sure there must be some videos there Cheers Rich Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted February 16, 2021 Report Share Posted February 16, 2021 Hi Enrique, the screw is a tapered fit in the damper arm. Do you know someone or a workshop with a hydraulik press? I don't like to use a hammer. Ciao, Marco Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Efuentes Posted February 16, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2021 I will try, carefully, with a mallet. Should it not come out I may try a workshop. I was also thinking that with two bolts and penetrating oil, even if the second one does not fully thread in, I may be able to apply sufficient twist force to break the bond... Will let you know about progress Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted February 16, 2021 Report Share Posted February 16, 2021 2 hours ago, Adam Blackaby said: Hi From memory, try hitting the arm on both sides of the taper link at the same time. Sometimes this is enough to break the connection. Heat, or wd40 beforehand might help. +1 Squeeze the taper eye with two hammers - good and hard. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Drewmotty Posted February 16, 2021 Report Share Posted February 16, 2021 (edited) I used a hot air gun to remove two last week. Both literally fell out after a few minutes heating. I always use a hot air paint stripping type gun rather than a blow torch. The gun is plenty hot enough but won’t cause anything to burst into flames and heats things much more evenly than a naked flame. Edited February 16, 2021 by Drewmotty Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted February 17, 2021 Report Share Posted February 17, 2021 (edited) You could cut the ball end off with a hacksaw, than press it out with a socket in your vice. Ciao, Marco Edited February 17, 2021 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MichaelH Posted February 17, 2021 Report Share Posted February 17, 2021 +1 for two hammers and hit both sides of the joint really hard The first time you do it and it works you get worried that you can do some damage: but it is simple and local and available Remember its a TR not a .......ing watch Michael Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted February 17, 2021 Report Share Posted February 17, 2021 1 hour ago, MichaelH said: +1 for two hammers and hit both sides of the joint really hard The first time you do it and it works you get worried that you can do some damage: but it is simple and local and available Remember its a TR not a .......ing watch Michael As Michael and others suggest shocking the tapers apart is the accepted engineering practice for splitting 2 tapers. It is the close fitting surfaces which is keeping the tapers locked together,...nothing else. If you are familiar with "ringing" 2 very flat surfaces against one another ...slip gauges or ground surfaces on parrell spacers, the flat surfaces force all the air out between them and hold firmly together by suction. By holding a hammer behind firmly against the taper eye and then hitting the taper eye from the front (heavily) with another hammer it forces a shock wave through the locked together tapers which at a molecular level causes a ripple to pass through the surfaces, which breaks the suction and the grasp of the tapers against one another, and they come apart. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tr4aJim Posted February 17, 2021 Report Share Posted February 17, 2021 (edited) I had the same problem when I rebuilt the rear suspension on my solid axle 65. I used a small three prong puller after soaking the pin with penetrating fluid. As there is little room for purchase on the damper arm, it took several tries to get the three puller arms to hold while tightening (And quite a bit of swearing). I also left the nut on the pin, loosened enough to leave a shallow area in the nut, so the driving pin of the puller wouldn’t skate off. Oh, and I did try using the hammer method first, but had no luck so I tried the puller. Perhaps it was a combination of the two. Jim Edited February 17, 2021 by Tr4aJim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted February 17, 2021 Report Share Posted February 17, 2021 Here it is done with one hammer. As you have the whole assembly off support one side of the lever eye on a solid metal base like a hammer and hit the opposite side with another hammer. The taper usually pops out. I use this technique for front stub axles Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted February 17, 2021 Report Share Posted February 17, 2021 Whenever I have tried that it didn't work !. Maybe I was being too gentle. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted February 17, 2021 Report Share Posted February 17, 2021 I've often wondered if trying to drive the taper pin out with a press would make it swell and grip even tighter. I've always spit taper joints with the two-hammer method, but it helps to use a ball joint splitter as well, to put some tension on it. Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted February 17, 2021 Report Share Posted February 17, 2021 1 hour ago, Lebro said: Whenever I have tried that it didn't work !. Maybe I was being too gentle. Bob. With that particular problem I would sit the shocker eye on the anvil and give the other side a sturdy whack with my club hammer. I would leave the nut on loosely if I wanted to reuse the thing, just in case I slipped and damaged the thread. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Efuentes Posted February 17, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2021 Hi all. Today I tried a hammer, but, upon reviewing your suggestions and looking at the video, I think I did it the wrong way. What I did was putting the lever arm on top of an open vice, with the screw looking up and the ball joint and link hanging down between the two sides of the vice, then wacking the top of the bolt down with the hammer, but nothing happened. From what I have now interpreted from your posts and the video, it looks like I have to whack the end of the lever arm (or: the "eye" where the tapered bolt is inserted) on the sides... I will try that. A heat gun is also on its way... I would prefer not to cut off the tapered pin as the replacement parts I have ordered are having issues at customs (...Brexit...) So I am thinking about trying to repair the ball joint by pouring some polyurethane in it, at least until the parts arrive, which may take some time. Will keep you posted and thanks again to all of you Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted February 17, 2021 Report Share Posted February 17, 2021 Just now, Efuentes said: Hi all. Today I tried a hammer, but, upon reviewing your suggestions and looking at the video, I think I did it the wrong way. What I did was putting the lever arm on top of an open vice, with the screw looking up and the ball joint and link hanging down between the two sides of the vice, then wacking the top of the bolt down with the hammer, but nothing happened. From what I have now interpreted from your posts and the video, it looks like I have to whack the end of the lever arm (or: the "eye" where the tapered bolt is inserted) on the sides... I will try that. A heat gun is also on its way... I would prefer not to cut off the tapered pin as the replacement parts I have ordered are having issues at customs (...Brexit...) So I am thinking about trying to repair the ball joint by pouring some polyurethane in it, at least until the parts arrive, which may take some time. Will keep you posted and thanks again to all of you Yeah beating down on the end of the ball joint doesn't work (never has for me) the rubber abosrbes the impact and just rebounds back. What you are doing by beating ACROSS the taper eye at 90 deg to it's thread is causing "temporal malformation" as stated the shock cause the molecular structure to ripple which breaks the ringing effect on the taper, it literally jumps apart. Give it another go. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Efuentes Posted February 18, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2021 I tried again today with the two hammer method, unsuccessfully... I finally took it to a nearby car shop where they used a ball joint remover and disassembled it in no time... They didn't charge me, so I invited the guy to a beer... Iooking forward to removing the other damper Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted February 18, 2021 Report Share Posted February 18, 2021 (edited) The challenge with any hammer method is to find the end of using it before you ruin to parts which you want to repair. Edited February 18, 2021 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AndyR100 Posted February 19, 2021 Report Share Posted February 19, 2021 17 hours ago, Efuentes said: they used a ball joint remover and disassembled it in no time... They didn't charge me, so I invited the guy to a beer... beer is the universally accepted payment-method! Glad you have it apart ....... Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.