Ed -TR2 Posted April 10, 2021 Report Share Posted April 10, 2021 Thanks for the clarification. I just wanted to make sure I put it back together correctly! I believe the car was repaired in the late 1960's or early 1970's, most probably just to keep it on the road, so not much care was taken. I have similar where the rear quarter panel meets with the inner wing. Rather than an overlap of the two panel flanges spot welded together, a repaired quarter panel section was welded straight to the inner wing! Another question if I may? I have 4 tags that hold the wiring loom in place across the rear of the boot floor and 1 near the offside wheel arch. Should I have any more in the boot area? Thanks. Ed Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted April 12, 2021 Report Share Posted April 12, 2021 On 4/10/2021 at 6:42 PM, Ed -TR2 said: Another question if I may? I have 4 tags that hold the wiring loom in place across the rear of the boot floor and 1 near the offside wheel arch. Should I have any more in the boot area? Thanks. Ed IIRC thats enough tags. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ed -TR2 Posted April 12, 2021 Report Share Posted April 12, 2021 Thanks Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil Read Posted July 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2021 Progress has been slow as I have other classics I am working on. Rear and o/s quarter panel now welded in place. I must have had the wings on and of at least a dozen times making adjustments and every time different issues accurred, but they fit quite well now (I mean at the moment). The front of both sills also neaded minor work behind the front wings. I have just been stripping a second hand front wing I bought, its quite interesting revealing the colours, on top of the undercoat its red, then yellow and finally light blue before it was sprayed in grey undercoat. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted July 10, 2021 Report Share Posted July 10, 2021 Never seen that bulge where a loudspeaker can be mounted in the footwell side panel. Mine just had a hole. Was that a later mod Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Charlie D Posted July 10, 2021 Report Share Posted July 10, 2021 (edited) I was wondering the same. But mine doesn't even have a hole. (1959 3A) Although if it did it would just be another place for the water to get in. And what's the little round blob just to the top right of the speaker bulge? Charlie. Edited July 10, 2021 by Charlie D Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted July 10, 2021 Report Share Posted July 10, 2021 Looks like the bulge is something added by a previous owner. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted July 10, 2021 Report Share Posted July 10, 2021 I too have not seen the mod before. Has it got a matching one on the lhs? Thread drift……Jack French fitted a Woolworths pie dish on Simplicity’s bulkhead side to give more accelerator pedal space. https://anarchadia.blogspot.com/2010/06/vintage-thing-no69-simplicity.html Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil Read Posted August 21, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2021 Doors removed and stripped, however they are different. One has a wood frame the other metal. I assume the wood framed door is from an earlier car. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted August 21, 2021 Report Share Posted August 21, 2021 1 hour ago, Phil Read said: Doors removed and stripped, however they are different. One has a wood frame the other metal. I assume the wood framed door is from an earlier car. Handle mount on the skin looks different. Flat on wood frame door and raised on all steel. Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted August 21, 2021 Report Share Posted August 21, 2021 Hi Phil The doors are from different production periods. Wooden pre TS60000 (ish) body pressing changes, all steel post that change. Hence the raised plinths for the door handle, (also found on bonnets,boots, front and rear scuttles on later cars.) Iain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ralph Whitaker Posted August 22, 2021 Report Share Posted August 22, 2021 I had a wood framed door that had a raised plinth for the door handle so I think earlier than 60000. Presumably early 3a`s had the wood framed doors with handles, and also some late 3`s. Ralph Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted August 22, 2021 Report Share Posted August 22, 2021 6 hours ago, Ralph Whitaker said: I had a wood framed door that had a raised plinth for the door handle so I think earlier than 60000. Presumably early 3a`s had the wood framed doors with handles, and also some late 3`s. Ralph Might have been reskinned Stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil Read Posted August 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2021 On 8/21/2021 at 1:02 PM, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: Handle mount on the skin looks different. Flat on wood frame door and raised on all steel. Both outer skins are the same, with raised handle mounts. The only difference is that the studs on the wooden frame door screw in but on the metal frame door they have a nut at the back. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil Read Posted October 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2021 Progressing slowly. All rear panels welded in. I am fitting the wings to check fitment before final prep and paint. The front Apron is away being worked on, when I get that back I can trial fit the front wings and doors. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil Read Posted July 30, 2022 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2022 I have not given an update for some time. With help from a friend considerable progress has been made over the past 3 months. All the removable panels were stripped and painted off the car. The rest was taken to a body shop for finishing and painting. Yesterday we fit a new windscreen as the old one was cracked. I have not decided what to do with the interior yet so I am fitting the old one back in photos attached. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
roy53 Posted July 30, 2022 Report Share Posted July 30, 2022 Phil what did you use as a paint stripper ? Roy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil Read Posted July 30, 2022 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2022 Most panels were sanded back to bare metal. where this was difficult eg front apron, I used Morstrip a heavy duty paint stripper. With sanding there is less chance of leaving paint stripper resedue. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted July 30, 2022 Report Share Posted July 30, 2022 Nice colour. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil Read Posted July 30, 2022 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2022 4 minutes ago, stuart said: Nice colour. Stuart. Jaguar Racing Green Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil Read Posted October 10, 2022 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2022 More or less finished, just a few minor tydying jobs to do. It was last on the road in 2007, I have not touched the engine apart from rebuilding the carbs, I wanted to see how it ran first. Test run went well till I had a fuel starvation problem, probably dirt in the tank. Gearbox and overdrive work fine but once hot the oil pressure drops to about 10-15psi on tickover and 50 psi at 2500rpm. Looks like and engine out job. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bfg Posted October 10, 2022 Report Share Posted October 10, 2022 (edited) Well done, and looking very nice indeed 1 hour ago, Phil Read said: Gearbox and overdrive work fine but once hot the oil pressure drops to about 10-15psi on tickover and 50 psi at 2500rpm. Looks like an engine out job. Taking it that you mean "Gearbox and overdrive work fine but once hot the engine's oil pressure drops" - might I suggest you first drop the sump and check the tolerances within the oil pump. This can be rebuilt on the bench. The big-end bearings are quite easily swapped out from underneath, as can the end-float shims should those be needed, without disturbing everything else. ... unless of course there's obvious piston slap & an oil plume following you around - working from underneath offers less chance of bodywork damage, is quicker and less disheartening than starting to pull the car apart again, now that it is finally on the road and looking so very nice. With my own TR4a, I followed this route, and found the big-ends and centre-main-bearing within tolerance ( I didn't disturb the end main bearing caps). I use Penrite Oil's classic medium.. and have since (finally !) enjoyed driving the car over the past few months. There are quite a few other jobs to be done before I need to pull the engine. Pete Edited October 10, 2022 by Bfg Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil Read Posted October 10, 2022 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2022 Thanks for that I will give it a go. There does not appear to be any blow back with the oil filler cap removed and it starts on the button. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted October 10, 2022 Report Share Posted October 10, 2022 6 hours ago, Bfg said: Well done, and looking very nice indeed Taking it that you mean "Gearbox and overdrive work fine but once hot the engine's oil pressure drops" - might I suggest you first drop the sump and check the tolerances within the oil pump. This can be rebuilt on the bench. The big-end bearings are quite easily swapped out from underneath, as can the end-float shims should those be needed, without disturbing everything else. ... unless of course there's obvious piston slap & an oil plume following you around - working from underneath offers less chance of bodywork damage, is quicker and less disheartening than starting to pull the car apart again, now that it is finally on the road and looking so very nice. With my own TR4a, I followed this route, and found the big-ends and centre-main-bearing within tolerance ( I didn't disturb the end main bearing caps). I use Penrite Oil's classic medium.. and have since (finally !) enjoyed driving the car over the past few months. There are quite a few other jobs to be done before I need to pull the engine. Pete +1 to dropping the sump and you can check the mains and ends with Plastigage before pulling the engine. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted October 11, 2022 Report Share Posted October 11, 2022 If it rattles a little at startup, don't worry as long as this ceases after a couple of miles - I exclude tappet noise, as most TRs seem to have one tappet which rattles - mine does. People get fixated on oil pressure, but what really matters is oil FLOW. It is the flow of oil which both lubricates the surfaces and removes heat from the surfaces. And there will be plenty of flow at 50 psi, when the engine is working to propel the car. In the 1960s, my TR2 would run the M1 at a near continuous 100 mph, showing about 25-30 psi, dropping to almost zero at tickover. Rattled like mad at startup, but went like the clappers! And can you be sure that your pressure gauge reads correctly ? I would just drive the car and enjoy it - that's what I do, and I have similar oil pressure readings at tickover and when cruising at 70 mph. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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