john.r.davies Posted May 3, 2020 Report Share Posted May 3, 2020 2 hours ago, ntc said: John The very least I would do is a inbound plate with gusset welded under the roll bar plate and over the chassis Wot? What's an 'inbound plate'? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EliTR6 Posted May 4, 2020 Report Share Posted May 4, 2020 My two (euro) cents: I fitted a bolt in roll over bar, the standard no diagonal one from Revington. I am well aware that a full cage bolted/welded to the chassis would offer a lot more protection but it is beyond my technical skills to fit one myself and having one fitted would be well beyond my means. Even the price of a full cage would have been a stretch too far for me. A properly made bolt in affair is more than enough for me. There must have been a combined 80k TR2s and TR3s made. I'm guessing most of them weren't fitted with roll over bars or cages and the proportion of rolled cars must be very small. No-one wants to be a statistic, I think most TR drivers are acutely aware of the safety failings of our cars compared to modern vehicles and our vulnerability on the road and drive accordingly. Stay safe and the right way up! Eli Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ntc Posted May 4, 2020 Report Share Posted May 4, 2020 10 hours ago, john.r.davies said: Wot? What's an 'inbound plate'? Opposite to outbound Quote Link to post Share on other sites
john.r.davies Posted May 4, 2020 Report Share Posted May 4, 2020 Nothing if not gnomic, ntc. We are discussing roll bars, not ships, railway trains or even hospital patients! See: https://www.uhmb.nhs.uk/news-and-events/latest-news/trusts-award-winning-analytical-command-centre-adopted-seven-nhs-organisations-london (UHMB is my local Hospital Trust) John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted May 7, 2020 Report Share Posted May 7, 2020 Well my Revingtons one arrived today, a quick trial fit revealed some fettling required, both to the roll bar feet, & to my hood frame. More work on it tomorrow Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rod1883 Posted May 7, 2020 Report Share Posted May 7, 2020 Is it still made by 'Caged' Bob, or have Revington changed supplier? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted May 7, 2020 Report Share Posted May 7, 2020 I don't know. No clues on the bar or packaging. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted May 7, 2020 Report Share Posted May 7, 2020 Hood should fit bob. where is it catching. Search my hardtop thread, Iain provided some dimensions for the roll bar position. H Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Drewmotty Posted May 7, 2020 Report Share Posted May 7, 2020 (edited) Mine clears the hood even with thick padding fitted. Are the uprights vertical? Will it stand sliding forward on the arches a bit? Edited May 7, 2020 by Drewmotty Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted May 7, 2020 Report Share Posted May 7, 2020 Revington’s are made by Caged. I don’t remember any fettling being required. Iain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted May 7, 2020 Report Share Posted May 7, 2020 Re the hood frame, it catches the front uprights as you swing it up & forward. I should be able to "spring" the pivot points at the base of the frame further apart, & straighten out the plate which joins that pivot down to the body plate. Re the bar, the feet have a downturn on the inside edge to match the roll off of the wheel arches, The down turn is too much, & it's lifting the plate away from the arch. I'm sure it wont take much to flatten it out a little. I appreciate that it's probably the car that's the wrong shape ! I intend to fit it as far back as is possible, the limiting factor being the straps holding the tank, & the threaded part on them which the rear panel is secured to. I have to leave enough of a gap between them to be able to re- fit the rear panel. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted May 7, 2020 Report Share Posted May 7, 2020 Bob, I had to pull the legs of my bar closer together by a small amount to align the downturn with the curve of the wheel arches. It was only a small amount and I used a loop of rope as a 'Spanish Windlass' to achieve it. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted May 8, 2020 Report Share Posted May 8, 2020 Yep, already done that using a small ratchet strap, that gets the downturn of the front hoop feet over the edge of the arch, but the down turn is still a bit too sharp. will investigate / tinker more today, also need to re-fit the tank cover to make sure I have not got the bar too far back. Measure 10 times, drill once !! Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted May 8, 2020 Report Share Posted May 8, 2020 That’s a pretty thick plate to adjust. You are liable to damage the plastic coating. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Drewmotty Posted May 8, 2020 Report Share Posted May 8, 2020 Mine was “eased” without damage with the aid of an 18” adjustable and cardboard under the jaws. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Drewmotty Posted May 8, 2020 Report Share Posted May 8, 2020 These images may be of use to you Bob. I can just get my fingers between the rear trim panel and the harness bar. I don’t know which seats you have but note that the harness points are designed to be central on parallel mounted seats rather than the standard ‘splayed’ arrangement. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rod1883 Posted May 8, 2020 Report Share Posted May 8, 2020 This is how I know mine is made by Caged Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted May 8, 2020 Report Share Posted May 8, 2020 (edited) Thanks guys. I have got as far as drilling the 3 holes each side for the rear plates, I decided to do those first, then once bolted down, I can more easily adjust the front plate positions as required. What I have noticed is the the welded on plates are identical to the "underneath" plates, & were probably jig drilled before the edge was bent over, this means the inside hole (on the bent bit) is no longer in the right place to line up with the top one, especially when separated by the wheel arch. I have had to elongate the inside hole on the underneath plates towards the outside of the car to make that hole line up. Anyway, one side done, stopped for lunch then onto the other side. Andrew - mine will end up same place as yours. Photos later. Bob. Edited May 8, 2020 by Lebro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Drewmotty Posted May 8, 2020 Report Share Posted May 8, 2020 (edited) I bolted mine in with one hole in each position and then ‘wurgled’ increasing size drills through both plates and the arch until I got to bolt clearance size. Edited May 8, 2020 by Drewmotty Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted May 10, 2020 Report Share Posted May 10, 2020 All done, please with result, I was not sure if the hood stick cover would still fit, but it does. Was just able to re-fit the tank cover with roll bar in situ. Had to adjusted hood sticks to give clearance to bar. Next step is get the tonnau modified. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted May 26, 2020 Report Share Posted May 26, 2020 Back from trimmers. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted May 26, 2020 Report Share Posted May 26, 2020 Very neat and tidy. great job Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted May 26, 2020 Report Share Posted May 26, 2020 Very tidy. Iain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Deggers Posted May 26, 2020 Report Share Posted May 26, 2020 Looking good, Bob. Very smart. Deggers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Drewmotty Posted May 26, 2020 Report Share Posted May 26, 2020 Very nice Bob. I may look at getting a tonneau cover for mine now. I was thinking about having an extra zip from the drivers right shoulder to the dash so that when the cover is in on the section from the door to dashboard/ shoulder level can stay in place. Cosy. Has anyone seen it done? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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