Bfg Posted March 16 Report Share Posted March 16 42 minutes ago, Ralph Whitaker said: I would stay away from colours that you have tinted to make darker or lighter. Should you need to buy more in the future it is hard enough with standard colours without adding more difficulty to the equation. And you cannot rely on paint scanners for the correct match either, a friend had his van scanned 3 times and each time the paint was different and none matched the original colour . In the end he gave up and had to live with one panel a different shade to the rest of the van. Ralph I'd suggest that even original colours are subject to great variation anyway, according to year, batch and manufacturer ..and so it makes little difference if a car's colour is a standard or custom. Particularly where the blend and mix ratios are known. Fading (depending on the proximity of industry &/or coast, the climate and quality of light) and yellowing of paintwork changes hues and tones yet again, as to a certain extend does the primer undercoat. Arguably quanties of lead and other additives in those can have a long term effect on colour fastness. Fading of course tend to happen more on upper panel surfaces, and again where a car is parked for many consecutive years on the same driveway. ie., where the sun and weather beats down on one side more than the other. Red pigment in paints is infamous for fading faster than most any other colour pigment. Either way, colour matching of an upper panel surface will look very different to one from even the same panel ..in the shadows. Nowadays the matter is very much more complicated by different brands, different paints (chemical composition), their lacquers, and the percentage of matte, relative to the original cellulose. Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted March 16 Report Share Posted March 16 2 hours ago, Ralph Whitaker said: I would stay away from colours that you have tinted to make darker or lighter. Should you need to buy more in the future it is hard enough with standard colours without adding more difficulty to the equation. And you cannot rely on paint scanners for the correct match either, a friend had his van scanned 3 times and each time the paint was different and none matched the original colour . In the end he gave up and had to live with one panel a different shade to the rest of the van. Ralph Then the operator made an error when scanning, I use a local very large body shop to scan anything I need to be an exact match and they scan under very tightly controlled conditions with a rubber sealed scanner head which is linked to the computer that controls their entire mixing scheme, theyre authorised Merc refinishers so it has to be spot on and theyve never failed to match anything Ive taken there yet. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted March 16 Report Share Posted March 16 1 hour ago, Bfg said: I'd suggest that even original colours are subject to great variation anyway, according to year, batch and manufacturer ..and so it makes little difference if a car's colour is a standard or custom. Particularly where the blend and mix ratios are known. Fading (depending on the proximity of industry &/or coast, the climate and quality of light) and yellowing of paintwork changes hues and tones yet again, as to a certain extend does the primer undercoat. Arguably quanties of lead and other additives in those can have a long term effect on colour fastness. Fading of course tend to happen more on upper panel surfaces, and again where a car is parked for many consecutive years on the same driveway. ie., where the sun and weather beats down on one side more than the other. Red pigment in paints is infamous for fading faster than most any other colour pigment. Either way, colour matching of an upper panel surface will look very different to one from even the same panel ..in the shadows. Nowadays the matter is very much more complicated by different brands, different paints (chemical composition), their lacquers, and the percentage of matte, relative to the original cellulose. Pete Red and yellow are the worst colours for fading, quite a few years ago a friend of mine brought over his Alfa that was of course red and despite only being about five years old as it lived outside the red had faded to almost pink on the roof and part way down the sides, a days work with a polishing mop and it looked like a new car. Lesson being when taking anything to be scanned give it a damn good polish up with fine compound or Tcut first of all. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
brenda Posted March 16 Report Share Posted March 16 (edited) Why do need to change blue is one of the best colours for TR4s. Mike Redrose Group Edited March 16 by brenda Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ralph Whitaker Posted March 16 Report Share Posted March 16 23 minutes ago, stuart said: Then the operator made an error when scanning. Stuart. Probably so, it was an 18 month old Vauxhall van that had been caught on a gatepost on rear n/s panel, and we called it Kermit as it was that vivid pea green that they used about 6 years ago. It was done twice by the paintshop, and on the third attempt they took it somewhere else as they were convinced that their scanner was duff. Gave up in the end as they wanted to blow in the whole side of the van. Ralph Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted March 16 Report Share Posted March 16 2 hours ago, brenda said: Why do need to change blue is one of the best colours for TR4s. Mike Redrose Group Of course Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jase Posted March 17 Author Report Share Posted March 17 Well that was relentless, I thought the top of the bonnet was going to be the easiest side to strip. All of it was covered in a layer of filler, complete nightmare. Welded up a spilt in the top of the bonnet and now need to make and fit Stuart’s bonnet strengheners next. Still a lot of work to prepare the bonnet for paint. Question: does anyone stoneguard the inside of the bonnet prior to painting? Thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted March 18 Report Share Posted March 18 16 hours ago, Jase said: Question: does anyone stoneguard the inside of the bonnet prior to painting? Thanks I wouldnt, its not original and never looks nice, now youve got rid of all that filler it`ll be a lot easier to lift the bonnet Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bfg Posted March 19 Report Share Posted March 19 On 3/17/2024 at 7:44 PM, Jase said: does anyone stoneguard the inside of the bonnet prior to painting? 23 hours ago, stuart said: I wouldn't, its not original and never looks nice, now you've got rid of all that filler it`ll be a lot easier to lift the bonnet Stuart. I'm guessing Jase recognises there's not an issue with stone chipping under the bonnet, so is wondering if Stoneguard would be a good substitute for, better looking than, and less prone to peeling off when hot, than the stick-on panel anti-drum pads.? a tad more bonnet weight -versus- a quieter car. If the stays were masked off as it were applied, so the stoneguard was just on the underside of the skin panel, and then Hardura faced felt (sound absorbancy) were applied over those areas. The stoneguard might be effective anti-drum ?? ..adhering well but unseen. Black Hardura would be in keeping as a period upgrade, if not 'original spec'. Neatly done, I suspect it would look good under there, as a compliment to polished BR-green paintwork on the stays. Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted March 19 Report Share Posted March 19 (edited) 18 minutes ago, Bfg said: I'm guessing Jase recognises there's not an issue with stone chipping under the bonnet, so is wondering if Stoneguard would be a good substitute for, better looking than, and less prone to peeling off when hot, than the stick-on panel anti-drum pads.? a tad more bonnet weight -versus- a quieter car. If the stays were masked off as it were applied, so the stoneguard was just on the underside of the skin panel, and then Hardura faced felt (sound absorbancy) were applied over those areas. The stoneguard might be effective anti-drum ?? ..adhering well but unseen. Black Hardura would be in keeping as a period upgrade, if not 'original spec'. Neatly done, I suspect it would look good under there, as a compliment to polished BR-green paintwork on the stays. Pete Having seen many versions of underbonnet coatings/sound deadening over the years they all end up looking rubbish after a few years as its a pretty harsh environment under there and its always subject to dust/grime/mud ingress unless the cars get minimal use, In short if you want a smart underbonnet then paint only is the best idea. With the bonnet stiffeners fitted and the stays supported by felt type material as per original then the panel doesn't drum. Stuart. Edited March 19 by stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jase Posted March 19 Author Report Share Posted March 19 Thanks both, I’ve seen stoneguard used on Spitfire bonnets and it is quite effective but that panel can get weathered quite a bit. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted March 20 Report Share Posted March 20 16 hours ago, Jase said: Thanks both, I’ve seen stoneguard used on Spitfire bonnets and it is quite effective but that panel can get weathered quite a bit. Also make sure the four side rubbers in the rain channels are actually doing their job and the two rear rubber supports are correctly adjusted that way the bonnet is held nicely in place as that lessens vibration too. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jase Posted March 20 Author Report Share Posted March 20 8 hours ago, stuart said: Also make sure the four side rubbers in the rain channels are actually doing their job and the two rear rubber supports are correctly adjusted that way the bonnet is held nicely in place as that lessens vibration too. Stuart. Do you have a pic of this? I don’t think I have the four side rubbers? I have the two cones. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted March 21 Report Share Posted March 21 15 hours ago, Jase said: Do you have a pic of this? I don’t think I have the four side rubbers? I have the two cones. Item 41 here, 4 off.https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/body-chassis/body-fittings/front-side-body-panels-tr4-4a-1961-67.html Arrowed in below picture. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jase Posted March 21 Author Report Share Posted March 21 Thanks, I definitely do not have these on my car. Will order some now. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jase Posted March 27 Author Report Share Posted March 27 Making some good progress on the bonnet, etch primed and skim filled repair Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted March 27 Report Share Posted March 27 Just now, Jase said: Making some good progress on the bonnet, etch primed and skim filled repair Probably weighs half what it did now. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jase Posted March 27 Author Report Share Posted March 27 yep, I actually think they fitted the bonnet and then added filler until it lined up with the wings instead of actually just adjusting the bonnet Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kiwifrog Posted March 27 Report Share Posted March 27 2 hours ago, Jase said: yep, I actually think they fitted the bonnet and then added filler until it lined up with the wings instead of actually just adjusting the bonnet Ex American car then ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jase Posted March 28 Author Report Share Posted March 28 The drivers side looks like it is going to be challenging when I remove the wing (eventually). Lots of pop rivets everywhere including near the fuse box. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jase Posted March 28 Author Report Share Posted March 28 The bonnet hinge is split, cleaned it up and will weld it back together prior to painting. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jase Posted March 28 Author Report Share Posted March 28 Etch primed the inside of the bonnet. Will flat back and paint over with high build primer and top coat when it gets a little warmer. Aiming to paint the top of the bonnet once I have aligned everything and it is back on the car: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted March 29 Report Share Posted March 29 17 hours ago, Jase said: Etch primed the inside of the bonnet. Will flat back and paint over with high build primer and top coat when it gets a little warmer. Aiming to paint the top of the bonnet once I have aligned everything and it is back on the car: Did you Bondarust first? if not then I wouldnt leave it too long in that etch with the amount of damp round these days. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jase Posted March 30 Author Report Share Posted March 30 Quite pleased with the colour: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bfg Posted March 30 Report Share Posted March 30 Colour in the tin looks to be a pleasantly darker shade of conifer-green on this screen. Out in the daylight will reveal all. I'm sure it'll look superb. Excellent work Jase. Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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