Lebro Posted March 12 Report Share Posted March 12 (edited) This shows the access to propshaft grease nipple. It looks to me from your photo that you had the access hole, but it has been welded up ? Bob Edited March 13 by Lebro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EliTR6 Posted March 13 Author Report Share Posted March 13 22 hours ago, Lebro said: This shows the access to propshaft grease nipple. It looks to me from your photo that you had the access hole, but it has been welded up ? Bob Thanks Bob! Yes, there is a rather crude patch welded into the gearbox tunnel I need to order new brake wheel cylinders (might as well do both), whilst I'm waiting I'll remove the tunnel and try to weld the bottom seam to remove the patch without the rear section getting all flimsy. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EliTR6 Posted March 24 Author Report Share Posted March 24 Somehow I forgot to order two wheel cylinders... Leaky one is now replaced and I found the clutch master cylinder was weeping slightly so replaced that as well. I've yet to bleed the system, I'm going to be using a hand operated vacuum pump to draw the air out. Let's see if it works... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TimG Posted March 25 Report Share Posted March 25 I found the grease access hole on my car has been welded up, I wonder why. Weld looks poor so I may be able to get it off without removing the tunnel & fit a rubber bung. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TimG Posted March 25 Report Share Posted March 25 17 hours ago, EliTR6 said: Somehow I forgot to order two wheel cylinders... Leaky one is now replaced and I found the clutch master cylinder was weeping slightly so replaced that as well. I've yet to bleed the system, I'm going to be using a hand operated vacuum pump to draw the air out. Let's see if it works... What is the pump you are using, be pleased to hear how it works? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted March 25 Report Share Posted March 25 2 minutes ago, TimG said: What is the pump you are using, be pleased to hear how it works? I tried one - it didn't work at all well. I think the problem was getting a vacuum seal around the bleed-nipple threads. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TimG Posted March 25 Report Share Posted March 25 Are there any one man bleeding systems that work? I have a Gunsons kit that uses tyre pressure to pressure the master cylinder reservoir. I'm a bit doubtful the the metal combined reservoir is up to pressurisation. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harlequin Posted March 25 Report Share Posted March 25 2 hours ago, RobH said: I tried one - it didn't work at all well. I think the problem was getting a vacuum seal around the bleed-nipple threads. That's what I found, air is drawn down the thread of the nipple. I believe that bleed-nipples are available with a seal on the thread but I gave up with the vacuum bleeder. George Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted March 25 Report Share Posted March 25 Brass bleed nipples are a much better fit in the thread so do make for easier bleeding.https://www.automec.co.uk/collections/fittings/products/brass-bleed-screws-unf Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted March 25 Report Share Posted March 25 The problem with the Gunsons Eze-bleed for me was getting a seal at the top of the fluid reservoir. The thread is not very well formed and it was very hit or miss and then the final time I tried to use it the cap actually blew off and sprayed the engine bay with brake fluid. It’s been on the shelf ever since and I’ve found a work around. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TimG Posted March 25 Report Share Posted March 25 I can do it on my own with my 1930 Sunbeam. The pedal protrudes through the bulkhead ( which is very far from being a fire wall) with a rope tied to it & passing round the engine mount I can pull the pedal working at each wheel. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted March 25 Report Share Posted March 25 5 hours ago, RobH said: I tried one - it didn't work at all well. I think the problem was getting a vacuum seal around the bleed-nipple threads. I did this job today and I had the same issue of sucking air and not a great flow of fluid. Tried grease around the threads to seal them off. i ended up keeping the vacuum trigger on AND pressing the brake peddle and it worked well for brakes and clutch. some horrid grey fluid came out do over due a fluid change. took a litre of this stuff so I know it’s all new and I have a great firm brake peddle before and now. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ralph Whitaker Posted March 26 Report Share Posted March 26 Keep your eyes open for the easy bleed nipples that used to be available in the 70s, they do come up occasionaly on ebay, and many cars of the era used 3/8 unf nipples same as the TRs. I think one of the brake specialists do still supply them but I cannot remember which one. I bought one last year, again off ebay, to bleed a Dolomite clutch cylinder as the nipple is almost impossible to get at. It was expensive though at about £12 per nipple, but it made the job easy. Failing that use one of those pipes with a one way valve most accesory shops sell. Ralph Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted March 26 Report Share Posted March 26 (edited) These: https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/goodridge-speed-bleeder-243452/ https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/goodridge-speed-bleeder-bleed-nipple-g-bn These and the pipe types both rely on the bleed nipple having a well-sealed thread, as otherwise they will draw air back in that way when you release the pedal. Edited March 26 by RobH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ralph Whitaker Posted March 27 Report Share Posted March 27 21 hours ago, RobH said: These: https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/goodridge-speed-bleeder-243452/ https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/goodridge-speed-bleeder-bleed-nipple-g-bn These and the pipe types both rely on the bleed nipple having a well-sealed thread, as otherwise they will draw air back in that way when you release the pedal. Yep, those are the fellas. They have some kind of coating on the threads to ensure no air is drawn past. Make bleeding really easy but essential to use the rubber covers to stop moisture getting in and rusting the internal spring and ball. Ralph Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Crunch Posted March 28 Report Share Posted March 28 Dear friends, Any tips on what to do to avoid rust inside the car after getting rained with only aeroscreens and no top? Any practical tips to avoid getting water all over, such as using the tonneaux to cover the seats? Thanks Duarte Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted March 29 Report Share Posted March 29 Welcome Duarte. Don't have carpet is a top tip for not getting rusty floors. If left wet in contact with the floors they will cause problems and smell like rotting vegetables as they dry. If the interior gets soaked remove it and dry it properly. Dry the metal floor panel too as far as possible. The other area that gets wet when driving in the rain with aeroscreens is the dash top trim and scuttle heater vents. Yes a tonneau will keep a lot of water off the seats and out of the interior. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Crunch Posted March 29 Report Share Posted March 29 Thank you very much for your tips, Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Deggers Posted March 29 Report Share Posted March 29 On 3/28/2024 at 7:43 PM, Crunch said: Any tips on what to do to avoid rust inside the car Hi Duarte, Aeroscreens are great fun, damp carpets not so much. And as Peter suggests, I've taken them out of my 3A Exposed gearbox tunnel and rubber mats might not be to everyone's taste, but it makes for a quick and easy clean after a shower. Personally I love the look. (Also, "because racecar"!) If you have an original steering wheel fitted, leather driving gloves are a good idea too as it gets slippery when wet. Cheers, Deggers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Crunch Posted March 30 Report Share Posted March 30 13 hours ago, Deggers said: Hi Duarte, Aeroscreens are great fun, damp carpets not so much. And as Peter suggests, I've taken them out of my 3A Exposed gearbox tunnel and rubber mats might not be to everyone's taste, but it makes for a quick and easy clean after a shower. Personally I love the look. (Also, "because racecar"!) If you have an original steering wheel fitted, leather driving gloves are a good idea too as it gets slippery when wet. Cheers, Deggers Thank you very much for all the tips. i will follow your advice and take out the carpets in racing days with aeroscreens, Thanks, Duarte Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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