EliTR6 Posted July 15, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2020 40 minutes ago, Hamish said: Eli Just for reference and as mentioned above this is my fork /shaft cross drilled and bolted done by Pete cox. Thanks Hamish Your photo prompted me to dig a little deeper and I found this document https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://static1.squarespace.com/static/5c6dec53b10f25d4edf0b3f7/t/5c6ef664fa0d600278466e1f/1550775909264/Clutch%2BShaft.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwj_gOjiktDqAhVzA2MBHXzoACsQFjABegQIAxAB&usg=AOvVaw1eRdUillB5YDCUQ3A6LGrK&cshid=1594846942797 And my current mini pin assembly Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Morrison Posted July 15, 2020 Report Share Posted July 15, 2020 No worries Eli, this is how I do all that i'm involved with, using a 4mm roll pin. John. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted July 16, 2020 Report Share Posted July 16, 2020 17 hours ago, John Morrison said: No worries Eli, this is how I do all that i'm involved with, using a 4mm roll pin. John. That's how I do it too John. Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chris59 Posted July 17, 2020 Report Share Posted July 17, 2020 (edited) @ Eli, you told me that I don't come anymore on this forum : you are right mate, and this is for good reasons. I'm no longer a TRR member, so can't even get access to "Alec's Inn", equivalent to the defunct ATB. I can't even get access to the old posts where I was chatting with Badfrog, my soul mate, Alec, and SO MANY others nice chaps..... Why would I spent time on a forum when my only contributions can be technical ? Edited July 17, 2020 by Chris59 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DavidBee Posted July 17, 2020 Report Share Posted July 17, 2020 12 hours ago, Chris59 said: I'm no longer a TRR member, so can't even get access to "Alec's Inn", equivalent to the defunct ATB. I can't even get access to the old posts where I was chatting with Badfrog, my soul mate, Alec, and SO MANY others nice chaps..... Why would I spent time on a forum Simple: because we miss you, Chris59. Your views, and your affection for people like Badfrog and Alec Pringle, neither of whom I had the honour of knowing myself. Someone gave you a zero, I give you a heart. So this shows we don't all think and feel alike. Please come back. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EliTR6 Posted July 20, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2020 (edited) Hi all Picking up my reconditioned gearbox on Wednesday! Should I reuse the carrier? It's got a bit of wear and there's a dent pushing out one of the edges. And the bearing? Everywhere was working fine I haven't checked the clutch plate as it should have only 8k on it. Edited July 20, 2020 by EliTR6 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EliTR6 Posted July 25, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2020 Quick update. I've picked up my recon a type box, the two bits of loom, longer speedo cable and new clutch TO bearing. I'm not going to touch the clutch plate. Hopefully I wont regret it! The new bearing is a bit beefier than the old one. I take it that they come prepacked with grease? Tomorrow is my only day off this week so I'll do what I can. I hope to have the 3 back on the road by next weekend. I haven't smothered it on copaslip or refitted the pin yet. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted July 25, 2020 Report Share Posted July 25, 2020 (edited) 2 hours ago, EliTR6 said: Quick update. I've picked up my recon a type box, the two bits of loom, longer speedo cable and new clutch TO bearing. I'm not going to touch the clutch plate. Hopefully I wont regret it! The new bearing is a bit beefier than the old one. I take it that they come prepacked with grease? Tomorrow is my only day off this week so I'll do what I can. I hope to have the 3 back on the road by next weekend. I haven't smothered it on copaslip or refitted the pin yet. STOP! Looks like the release bearing is fitted back to front. The flat ground front contacts the clutch cover 3 fingers Bearing on left without carrier is for diaphragm clutch of TR 4A -6 Note it has a curved face to contact the clutch cover diaphragm multiple fingers. The carrier is the short one used on Spring clutch of TR2-4 The assembly is shewing flat ground face of release bearing that contacts the 3 fingers of TR2-4 Spring clutch. Which clutch cover type do you have fitted? Spring with 3 fingers or diaphragm Cheers Peter W Edited July 25, 2020 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted July 25, 2020 Report Share Posted July 25, 2020 I was going to say scream the same - wrong way round ! Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EliTR6 Posted July 25, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2020 Thanks chaps. Only had 30min to move bike and gearboxes around and have a play with fitting the carrier. Didn't look at the manual or my photos of the carrier on the old box. Just a bit of prep for tomorrow. I've turned it around now. No harm, no foul I've got a spring type clutch I'll double check the bearing face diameter tomorrow. The new one feels larger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EliTR6 Posted July 25, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2020 (edited) This is the old bearing when I removed the old gearbox. I don't remember playing with the bearing. Was it the wrong way round? And if so, how come the clutch, etc still worked? Some helpful photos on this thread here if any other noobs are looking https://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/40715-installing-the-clutch-release-bearingsleeve-to-gearbox/#comment-314043 Edited July 25, 2020 by EliTR6 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted July 26, 2020 Report Share Posted July 26, 2020 Yes, it was the wrong way round, sorry we missed that when you posted that photo earlier might have saved you some stress ! Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EliTR6 Posted July 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2020 2 hours ago, Lebro said: Yes, it was the wrong way round, sorry we missed that when you posted that photo earlier might have saved you some stress ! Bob. So copaslip between the carrier and the input shaft and between the carrier and the bearing inner race? It just slides on, no need to use a press or hammer and drift, right? I'm swapping in the longer studs this morning. My neck isn't happy Thanks for the help everyone! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EliTR6 Posted July 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2020 (edited) A few questions. Item number 1 on the below photo was a bolt. Shouldn't it be a 3rd stud? Item 2 should be a bolt, as should item 4. Item 3 feels like a broken stud, not a dowel. Do I have this right? Edited July 26, 2020 by EliTR6 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted July 26, 2020 Report Share Posted July 26, 2020 8 minutes ago, EliTR6 said: A few questions. Item number 1 on the below photo was a bolt. Shouldn't it be a 3rd stud? Item 2 should be a bolt, as should item 4. Item 3 feels like a broken stud, not a dowel. Do I have this right? 1 should be a stud 2, 3 & 4 should be bolts 2 dowels is correct. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted July 26, 2020 Report Share Posted July 26, 2020 (edited) 14 minutes ago, EliTR6 said: A few questions. Item number 1 on the below photo was a bolt. Shouldn't it be a 3rd stud? Item 2 should be a bolt, as should item 4. Item 3 feels like a broken stud, not a dowel. Do I have this right? There should be 3 studs across the top and in your picture 2/3/4 should be bolts. Stuart. Edited July 26, 2020 by stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EliTR6 Posted July 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2020 15 minutes ago, Lebro said: 1 should be a stud 2, 3 & 4 should be bolts 2 dowels is correct. Bob 14 minutes ago, stuart said: There should be 3 studs across the top so 1 is a bolt too and in your picture 2/3/4 should be bolts.There are only 2 studs Stuart. That was quick! Thanks Looks like 2/3 and 4 are stuck fast. I'll get the extractor out this afternoon. If I get them out OK, I'll elongate these holes by 10mm towards the rear. Do you bend the flange with the mounting in situ or do you remove it? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted July 26, 2020 Report Share Posted July 26, 2020 1 hour ago, EliTR6 said: So copaslip between the carrier and the input shaft and between the carrier and the bearing inner race? It just slides on, no need to use a press or hammer and drift, right? I'm swapping in the longer studs this morning. My neck isn't happy Thanks for the help everyone! Bearing should be press fit to the carrier. The bearing goes to the shoulder of the carrier. Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted July 26, 2020 Report Share Posted July 26, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, EliTR6 said: That was quick! Thanks Looks like 2/3 and 4 are stuck fast. I'll get the extractor out this afternoon. If I get them out OK, I'll elongate these holes by 10mm towards the rear. Do you bend the flange with the mounting in situ or do you remove it? Try fitting the plate upside down. You may have to relieve the flange to clear the exhaust. Bob has a great photo of how to fix the exhaust at this position using the TR 4 mounting system. I have used the same method. You do not have a mounting system for the exhaust visible here. The stud had a rubber strap holding a metal bar originally and it always allowed the exhaust to hit the chassis Peter W Edited July 26, 2020 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted July 26, 2020 Report Share Posted July 26, 2020 You won't need that stud on the mounting the exhaust clamp hangs from the gearbox side of the rubber mount. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EliTR6 Posted July 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2020 1 hour ago, Lebro said: You won't need that stud on the mounting the exhaust clamp hangs from the gearbox side of the rubber mount. Bob. Is this the part Bob? I admit defeat for today. I'm going to order some quality extractors. I couldn't find my old ones but they were cheap and cheerful anyway. I've sprayed all 3 with freeze and release (whilst covering the clutch assembly). What a pig of a job Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EliTR6 Posted July 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2020 At least this is looking OK. I drifted the bearing on using a block of wood and a hammer. Went on easily enough. I need to buy some fresh wire to secure the pin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted July 26, 2020 Report Share Posted July 26, 2020 FWIW you may need to grind a bit off that exhaust mount depending on the exhaust you have as they sometimes need to be angled more towards the centre line which means it just fouls on the edge of the gearbox mounting. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted July 26, 2020 Report Share Posted July 26, 2020 (edited) 2 hours ago, EliTR6 said: Is this the part Bob? I admit defeat for today. I'm going to order some quality extractors. I couldn't find my old ones but they were cheap and cheerful anyway. I've sprayed all 3 with freeze and release (whilst covering the clutch assembly). What a pig of a job You may not want to read this... Could be easier to get that broken stud out with the flywheel removed. Refit using loctite on the bolts if you cannot rescue the lock tabs. More room to get the Mole Grips/ Vise Grips in there and lock on with the flywheel removed. The thread in the block for those studs/bolts is 5/16" UNC Worth clearing all the threads before winding the bolts in. Cheers Peter W Edited July 26, 2020 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EliTR6 Posted July 27, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2020 (edited) 23 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: You may not want to read this... Could be easier to get that broken stud out with the flywheel removed. Refit using loctite on the bolts if you cannot rescue the lock tabs. More room to get the Mole Grips/ Vise Grips in there and lock on with the flywheel removed. The thread in the block for those studs/bolts is 5/16" UNC Worth clearing all the threads before winding the bolts in. Cheers Peter W https://www.halfords.com/tools/hand-tools/all-hand-tools/laser-impact-stud-extractor-1%2F2in-drive-121932.html I'm having this bad boy delivered tomorrow. Hopefully it will do the trick! And I'll order a unf/unc tap and die set to clean up the threads Edited July 27, 2020 by EliTR6 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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