Chris59

Fantastic pictures my friend, I knew you were as mad as I was/am. I've got no pictures from the past unfortunalty, as you know, I've lost this kind of souvenirs because of a water and mud flood in 2012. Nice topic George Andrew, it's the kind of idea who bring me back to this forum, even if, as a non TRR member, I can't get access to some "chapters".

No picture, sorry, my bikes small fleet is : a 1976 250cc KTM, a 1987 Honda 600 XRR, a 1988 Honda 600 Transalp, a 1992 250 CR Honda, a 1995 250 YZ Yamaha, a Kawasaki 300 KLXR, a 2005 290 Sherco (trial bike) and several others bikes in various state. I might add a 1990 200 KDX Kawasaki this weekend, hopefully !

M2P : I've repaired several PI cables by drilling the two points where the cables are crimped in the sort of steel tube (sorry for my poor Engish, I'm not UK native !) and tin weld another pair of cables bought from a moped or bicycle store. Rather easy, but take care to not extra heat the cable, or it will become to rigid, and might broke rapidly.

Thanks for all guys. Since Peter' reply, I've made some search too, and found this https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=speedi+sleeve&view=detail&mid=3ADFE2A801E7989A55533ADFE2A801E7989A5553&FORM=VIRE I wish they could do something equivalent (but far stronger !) to repair Triumph worn "small chassis" half-shafts, where their needle bearing eat the shaft !

Many thanks guys for your replies and recommendations. Yes Peter, it's a late axle, ie a "6 bolts" Girling. I always check the endfloat before to remove a shaft, the "leaking side" wasn't correctly adjusted : as you said, incorrect endfloat is not good . Removing the flange is not a problem, I've made a proper tool years ago. The shaft is in nearly new condition where the seal run (I polished it on a lathe to be sure), but could you please tell me more about this "speedisleeve", thanks ? Cheers !

rHello guys and gales, Sometime, it's worth asking a question, even if other people might think you're an idiot : Which way should I fit the halshaft lip seal in a TR3 rear axle ? I'm talking about the one on the shaft, who's supposed to keep oil in the diff. My question isn't about the one who's on the flange side, who's role is to prevent bearing grease ingression in the brake drum. I've seen both : "flat" side of the seal toward the diff, or the other way, ie toward the hub bearing. Theorically, I would say it should be fitted as a seal on a gearbox (ie flat side facing toward the outside of the gearbox), but considering the nearly non existant pressure in the diff (because of the vent) compare to the pressure who can be higher on the bearing side (when hot), it could be either the other way.

Imho opinion, the only point is to not engage the overdrive at low rpm/speed.

Well, senior moment I guess : I've made some search following your reply, and it seems that I've already posted something about this camshaft 7 years ago on this forum. Where can I buy a new brain ? The right link https://www.kentcams.com/part/TH5-6?manufacturer=33&model=180&engine=119 More seriously, I still don't know if this camshaft is, once coupled with recommended accessoiries and correctly fitted, reliable or not, especially as the one I have is an "old" model : the more recently made ones might be better (or not !) ? Mine is wearing "Stanpart" in the casting, as if it has been made from a stock camshaft.

Hello guys, Whilst crawling into my stock of parts, I've found a NOS (ie old, but brand new), boxed "fast road" Kent camshaft, labelled as TH5/6, apparently similar to this https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/camshaft-fast-road-small-journal-new-212164-th5.html I strictly don't know it if it's a good camshaft, or if it's one of these poor quality part who won't last long : do you have experience to share ? Cheers, Chris.

We have been flooded more than once, but the worst one was in June 2007 : 2,50 meters of water and mud in our house. I (nearly) loose 2 of my daughters (7 and 12 years old at this moment), and (far less important) my own life. We have spent the next 6 months in a big caravan in my front garden, damn it was cold in October/November. Our house and some of my "barns" were rebuilt during this 6 months period. The Financial loss was terrible : about 300 000 Euros in car parts (resale value), and 43 of classic cars and bikes, but the most important was the loss of absolutly all our official documents (accademic qualifications, birth documents, …), photos, etc..... My oldest daughter spent 5 years trying to fight again mental problems due to this terrible flood, and it took me 8 years to stop making nightmares. Keith is right, but I sincerely hope that there will be no "next time"….

Yes, red Dextron or you will kill the g'box.

So, if I'm not wrong, and my understanding is correct, Christian learned that his car was (wrongly) listed as a write off BECAUSE Mark made some research for a potential customer. There is a Lesson to learn : if your classic car was damaged in an accident in the past, you'd better check if it has been (wrongly, again !) writen off by the authorities.

You'd better check if the breather is not obstructed….

You don't need a pallet, only remove the TR4 Passenger seat and, hey presto, you've got plenty of room for this spare engine.

You are absolutly right Bill, but the better is the quality of the ring gear, the longer it will last. Yes Kevin, it should be, but it isn't : ALL my "sixes" with pre-engaged starter motor have their ring gear chanfreined on the wrong side. I don't share your opinion about the ring gears who can be bought from the usual suppliers : it don't equal the quality of the original ones, far from this !