Hamish Posted August 24, 2019 Report Share Posted August 24, 2019 (edited) Whilst in the garage changing my sprinting tyres to my vredestiens I thought that On the back of Jonathan’s over heating tr2 thread I thought that there would be little harm in doing the flow restriction mod on my TR3a. The temps have been ok 185 to 207f with the elec fan bringing the temps down but perhaps they could be improved ! so off came the short L shaped hose with little loss of coolant and I found a tight fitting Ali pipe/sleeve to go in the water pump housing. However, ( its never good if you have to add an “however”) the tight fitting aspect of this engineering feet was due to a little furring up of the hole. with a little extra pressure, just to make sure it was a good fit you understand, the bloody thing pushed right in. it turns out that things put in here end up at the bottom of the bottom hose / rad junction. Bu@@er. I have a skid plate under my car as it hold my anti roll bar so the only access to the bottom hose clip is with the near side wheel off and in through the limited space where the steering arms come through. luckily - sorry with brilliant fore thought. The last time I had the rad out I had all the jubilee clips the right way to allow me to get a socket on this lower junction and I was able to retrieve the sleeve. Whilst dumping all the coolant. I needed to change the anti freeze anyway (3 years). i then decided to concentrate on the thermostat housing and after measuring decided on a copper 22mm blanking cap cut down and 8mm drilled at the top. This tapped on to the housing nicely with the hole at the top to let air out and it’s short enough that the hose holds it in place and yet the hose is still sealed to the housing by the jubilee clip. all done up and system refilled, with Heater hose off and front of car jacked up and cap off to let any air out it all back together and running. Moral of the story if it ain’t broke don’t fix it !!! Edited August 24, 2019 by Hamish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted August 24, 2019 Report Share Posted August 24, 2019 As a restrictor, I use an old, brass, plumbing fitting which already had an appropriate hole through the middle. To ensure that this fitting, which was a snug fit, would not migrate round the bend, I clamped a Jubilee clip round the hose at the position of the fitting. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don H. Posted August 24, 2019 Report Share Posted August 24, 2019 (edited) A mod often done over here is to use a copper 3/4" pipe cap with a 3/16" hole drilled in the center. It's pushed into the water pump end of the bypass hose and reconnected as normal. Lotta folks report very good results with this. 'Course, our plumbing is still inch-based, so it's a piece of cake to get the right diameter plug. About a £1 modification. https://www.lowes.com/pd/NIBCO-3-4-in-Copper-Slip-Cap-Fittings/3680874 Edited August 29, 2019 by Don H. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted August 24, 2019 Report Share Posted August 24, 2019 Hi Hamish, a very nice and honest story Thanks for sharing. Marco Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jonathan Smith Posted August 24, 2019 Report Share Posted August 24, 2019 After all your hard work has the temperature reduced? Jonathan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted August 24, 2019 Report Share Posted August 24, 2019 (edited) Yes - Using waxstat thermostat and the 8 mm restricted bypass flow. For me it makes the temp more stable and reliable. Peter W Edited June 21, 2020 by BlueTR3A-5EKT mm added Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted August 25, 2019 Report Share Posted August 25, 2019 I used an old coin with a hole drilled in it clamped next to the top bypass outlet with a second jubilee clip. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted August 25, 2019 Report Share Posted August 25, 2019 (edited) . . Edited April 15, 2020 by Fireman049 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TomMull Posted August 25, 2019 Report Share Posted August 25, 2019 I still have the bellows thermostat in mine with no restrictor and it seems to work well. Any reason to go with a modern stat? There still seems to be a few of the bellows type around as NOS at a reasonable cost. I bought a few at a car show a couple of years ago. Tom Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted August 25, 2019 Report Share Posted August 25, 2019 (edited) . Edited August 26, 2019 by Fireman049 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted August 25, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2019 On 8/24/2019 at 9:40 PM, Jonathan Smith said: After all your hard work has the temperature reduced? Jonathan Doing the oulton trip today to and fro and it’s a very hot day the temps are a little better. But not enough to warrant all the “extra” work imo. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MilesA Posted August 26, 2019 Report Share Posted August 26, 2019 Coincidentally, I was going to do this job today using Ian V's method. I pre drilled a suitable coin some months ago. Before starting, discovered I did not have a spare jubilee clip of the right size (had every other size!). So just cleaned the car after Stratford instead! Sounds as if I had a lucky escape. PS the job does need doing as part of my ongoing list of mods to manage high temps. Miles Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DavidBee Posted March 5, 2020 Report Share Posted March 5, 2020 On 8/24/2019 at 5:25 PM, Hamish said: Whilst in the garage changing my sprinting tyres to my vredestiens I thought that On the back of Jonathan’s over heating tr2 thread I thought that there would be little harm in doing the flow restriction mod on my TR3a. The temps have been ok 185 to 207f with the elec fan bringing the temps down but perhaps they could be improved ! so off came the short L shaped hose with little loss of coolant and I found a tight fitting Ali pipe/sleeve to go in the water pump housing. However, ( its never good if you have to add an “however”) the tight fitting aspect of this engineering feet was due to a little furring up of the hole. with a little extra pressure, just to make sure it was a good fit you understand, the bloody thing pushed right in. it turns out that things put in here end up at the bottom of the bottom hose / rad junction. Bu@@er. I have a skid plate under my car as it hold my anti roll bar so the only access to the bottom hose clip is with the near side wheel off and in through the limited space where the steering arms come through. luckily - sorry with brilliant fore thought. The last time I had the rad out I had all the jubilee clips the right way to allow me to get a socket on this lower junction and I was able to retrieve the sleeve. Whilst dumping all the coolant. I needed to change the anti freeze anyway (3 years). i then decided to concentrate on the thermostat housing and after measuring decided on a copper 22mm blanking cap cut down and 8mm drilled at the top. This tapped on to the housing nicely with the hole at the top to let air out and it’s short enough that the hose holds it in place and yet the hose is still sealed to the housing by the jubilee clip. all done up and system refilled, with Heater hose off and front of car jacked up and cap off to let any air out it all back together and running. Moral of the story if it ain’t broke don’t fix it !!! Neat job Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nigel C Posted June 21, 2020 Report Share Posted June 21, 2020 i machined this into the back of the thermo housing, the brass "nut" you can see is off a central heating bleed fitting. They have a nice little rubber sael/seat inside and a hole on the side to allow the fluid out......if the pressures just right it spurts perfectly into the alternator! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted June 21, 2020 Report Share Posted June 21, 2020 (edited) Did the thermo housing have that extra thickness where you have milled and drilled or have you added metal? My orig housing has no such additional material which why I did this with a 1/8 BSP taper plug. (photo to follow) Cheers Peter W Edited June 21, 2020 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted June 21, 2020 Report Share Posted June 21, 2020 Sorry me, for those who wonder why there is no bleeding plug there from the factory: guess why it is " missing". Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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