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TomMull

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  1. There is another video listed with the one above that shows the extent of corrosion in the rear section.
  2. Condition seems pretty typical "barn find" to me. I'd rather have an untouched rusty example that one that had been patched and bondoed several times over the last 50 +years. It would be nice of course to find the chassis in repairable condition as well as the inner wings, firewall and rear apron. If it were on this side of the pond and I didn't have too many cars already, I'd at least have a look. It is after all, a long door. Tom
  3. I have conversed with Moss USA technical support department and I thought the following information might be helpful. Moss has kindly refunded my purchase price with no requirement for sending the pipe back and they are now working on the problem. Tom
  4. Could also be from a bad tyre. What I do find curious is that the wheel was painted with the weights on. Normally, the weights would have been removed prior to the tyre dismount or failing that certainly before the wheel was prepped for paint. Easy enough to check to see if the wheels are true. Tom
  5. And some pre 60k LHD cars too .e.g my 58023L. Tom
  6. A local club member sold me a NOS pipe supplied by JC Whitney about 50 years ago. Still had all the stickers on it with a bit of surface rust. It fit perfectly. If JC Whitney could get it right... Tom
  7. ijonsson, Does your car have an OD? I think mine would fit except for that. Thanks for the reply, Tom
  8. Standard exhaust in plain steel, Moss downpipe #860-000. Tom
  9. Thanks Iain and Stuart but not really what I wanted to hear. I wonder if most suppliers use the same source? Tom
  10. I cannot seem to get the Moss replacement front exhaust pipe to clear the OD Housing. Ive just replaced the rear mount on the transmission hoping that would make a difference but no improvement. Your advice will be appreciated. The pipe hits the OD housing at the upper arrow and is too low for the cruciform passage at the bottom one. Tom
  11. I can only assume that the Le Mans cars had the largest fillers practical and available at the time and I have no idea which of the current reproductions would be closest. However they do seem quite large from the photos. Here's another, not a Triumph, but from the same the 1955 race: Then you would have to make a bigger hole in the tonneau panel and bush this down to the 2 inch filler neck. Tom
  12. I'm into an interlock issue with mine right now. Here's a more specific interlock test that a friend suggested, which mine failed. With the extension on the bench, select a gear position with the lever, second would be a good choice in your case. Then try manually moving the forks on the 3 -4 shaft with the fork. If you can move the 3 - 4 shaft with the selector still in second, the interlock is not working. The test works with all gear combinations. Tom.
  13. It does appear to be a Factory Service Manual. Here in the US, they have become available in new condition, presumably reprints. I don't know how they stand with copyright and all but they do look like the one that I bought in 1964 although I haven't actually seen one. Used examples are also not too rare and I think I'd opt for one of those, if one came up. I may also replace the silver duct tape on mine with red at some point. Tom
  14. Here's what I used, which agrees with Andy. http://paintref.com/cgi-bin/colorcodedisplay.cgi?color=Signal Red If you are trying to match existing paint you can sometimes get a good scan from the inside of the boot lid. Signal red seems to be one of the easy ones. Tom
  15. Here's mine, bent a good 10 degrees. I drove it for ten years that way. The oil leak never seemed excessive. Tom
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