Jump to content

TomMull

TR Register Members
  • Content Count

    474
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

About TomMull

Profile Information

  • Location
    New Hampshire USA

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Yes, do check. The purpose of those gear adapters was not only to change direction of the cable but to compensate for different transmission and axle ratios (there were straight adapters also). They were available in a variety of ratios including 1:1. We used them regularly on trucks back in the day. That said, neither of my TR3s have adapters. Tom
  2. Most of the inner core kits I've seen come with one end of the core squared and a stake on end for the other. There's a little tool to stake with that comes in the kit that I find very marginally adequate at best. I prefer to do the whole thing, even though it takes a bit more time and effort. Tom
  3. My limited experience, two cars, would support Rod's comment in the original post and your time frame. My 1960 TR3 was red with a red frame. I only recently discovered this after 55 years of ownership because the car was undercoated with black by the selling dealer, a common practice then. Stripping the frame revealed the red paint. My 59 was originally white and has what appears to be a powder blue chassis from the traces remaining. I find that a good place to check is behind the rear shock mounting surface. (I initially thought this red might be red primer but it is a very close match to signal red and blue on the other car.) Of course there is ample opportunity things got monkeyed with in the 60 or so years since these were built. The rear bumpers are curious but I can't see what would be gained by changing the assembly procedure for the camera. The film is very interesting piece of history at any rate. How things have changed! Tom
  4. I fail to understand why someone would go to the expense, time and effort of a long door restoration and use incorrect seats and wing beading. It makes you wonder what else is wrong, "engine block re-bored for example". Is that even possible? I will concede however, that the price seems to reflect the deficiencies and it's still a desirable Triumph. Tom
  5. The line in question does not appear to follow a true radius and looks to me like it was done unskillfully by hand.
  6. Bidders seem to wait until the very end. Sold for $26500 (£20310), still a very good buy IMO.
  7. Here's a nice TR3 BAT auction in Arizona. Low money so far. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1959-triumph-tr3a-18/ Tom
  8. I agree but the cost of restoration has very little to do with the value of the car after the restoration. Also agree with the cheap advertising that eBay listings provide. Tom
  9. Even though Hargety values do not carry much credence in the UK, this one came in at slightly under the Condition 2 value of $33k. About right, I'd say. Of course the actual sale had not yet been made when I looked last. Nice car at any rate. Tom
  10. I'm not sure they are all that meaningful here either but they do reflect some sales history and if Hagerty's data do not reflect international sales, then they are remiss in this day and age of worldwide markets for almost everything. Tom
  11. Not really that odd. Hagerty shows it valued at $11600 ( £8949) in fair condition (#4) and "bidding has ended on this item" does not necessarily mean sold. Tom
  12. I would be very interested in seeing the pictures. Glad you are back at it. Tom
  13. Yes, I think I erred on that fact once before. Slow learner. Tom
  14. Usually the wheel size is stamped on the inside. I have an assortment of old Triumph wheels and very few of them are even close to true so beware. As for size, I personally see no reason to use the weaker 4 inch wheels on the TR2. TR4A wheels will be fine. Tom
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.