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About TomMull

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    New Hampshire USA

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  1. As G Denson said above, the gauge will absolutely not go through the hole. I double checked with my spares. Tom
  2. The bulb on my tube was stuck in the housing also. As I recall I removed the housing and thermostat and was able to tap and wiggle the tube out. There is a slight lip on the gauge itself after you remove the bezel and seal. I haven't tried it but it might just fit through the hole without the bezel. The bezel is crimped on and does not unscrew. Best to get the bulb free imo. Tom
  3. Most of the kits do not contain the seal that goes on the shaft that operates the diaphragm but that seal is rarely needed. If you do need it it doubles or triples the cost of the kit and may be hard to find. Last I knew, TRF had the kit with the seal. I've also used the Moss kit without issues but their kit does not have that seal. Tom
  4. Seems the year was suggested by the registration document. Not really a car but a collection of parts from several and bid accordingly at £510 as of today.
  5. I think there were variations of a lift on this forum, which someone will hopefully post, but here is one from another. You can do it manually but it is awkward and heavy. https://www.triumphexp.com/forum/tr2-and-tr3-forum.6/tr3-transmission-removal-and-replacement.1574518/ Tom
  6. Right Stan. When I tried to renew I could not access the members area and I think I may have set up a duplicate account. Things went downhill from there. However I am now listed as a member rather than a user on the forum, which was my concern. I've got a better idea of how this all works thanks to Wayne's efforts and will try logging in again when I finish warming my backside here in Marathon FL. Cheers, Tom
  7. Thanks very much for the reply but I am unable to access my membership number. Your system does not recognize my email, nute_shop@hotmail.com so I cannot retrieve or reset my password. The password that I have, which I'm quite sure is correct, does not work with my user name or my email. I used your link to update my profile using the same email and still cannot access the members area. At this point I am quite frustrated and regret that I cannot participate as a member of your otherwise excellent organization. I'll also miss my copy of TR Action which I read cover to cover. I am not laying blame and make no excuses other than my inability to cope the requirements of your system. With Regrets, TomMull FWIW, I don't think I got a notification of your reply even though that option was checked on my post.
  8. I've become disconnected from my user name. I was registered at one point under my "TomMull" user name and after failing to renew for a few years finally got it renewed recently. When I tried to renew, I failed to login under that user name and unwisely created a new one "GreenTurtle" or "Greenturtle" in order to renew the membership and I guess I created a new user name. Now, I cannot retrieve the TomMull user name since it shows that it is already in use. I still use the TomMull username on the forum but of course I show as an unregistered user. I would like to re-connect with that name. I am, as you can probably tell, not particularly compatible with the information age. I did send a message under the Register's contact link with no response as yet. Any help will be appreciated. Tom
  9. You might also make sure the interlocks are in place if you take the cover off. (Put the selector in first gear position and try to move the other rails. They should not move.) Tom
  10. Here is a Long Door on BAT in the US. Lots of "upgrades" but looks quite solid to me. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1954-triumph-tr2-3/ Tom
  11. Perhaps per Imperial gallon, 4.54609 liyters?
  12. Things go together very well including the filler cap. Very nice car and my favorite Triumph color too. Tom
  13. I use seam sealer (dum-dum) that comes in strips. It's not too sticky, which is important to me as my cover comes off quite often for reasons I'm ashamed to mention. Tom
  14. Much less of a problem over here with LHD and for what it's worth, my '59 pre-60k TR3 with screw terminals has them going down while my '60 post 60k TR3 with spade terminals has them toward the side. Tom
  15. I don't know how closely our climate in New Hampshire compares with BC but if there are any old cars here without rust, they almost surely came from somewhere else. I kept my TR3 stored in an unheated garage here in New Hampshire for 30 years. Although it did show some rust beginning when it was first put into storage, it continued to rust badly over that next 30 years. The garage had a concrete floor and and was dry but not insulated nor even air tight. Bare sheet metal scraps in the same garage were covered with surface rust the first winter. Certainly well painted surfaces would fare much better and since my car already had some rust started it might not have fared better in more climate controlled storage. I now keep my cars in a well insulated garage which has heat but that is turned off when I'm away for long periods in the winter. I'm guessing that the insulation keeps the temperature swings to a minimum along with the associated moisture and condensation. I don't lift the tires, use battery maintainers or do anything else for storage. The only problem I've had so far (fourth winter) was when I inadvertently left a garage window open for several days in the very early spring in with nighttime temperatures well below freezing and got a nasty mold on the seats of my old Buick, which was right under the window.. I do run a de-humidifier in the summer. My supply of sheet metal (which serves as my canary) stays bright. For what it's worth, I recently visited an climate controlled auto storage facility nearby and it was pretty well packed with cars literally inches apart. Tom
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