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About TomMull

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    New Hampshire USA

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  1. So I guess I'll continue this as there turned out to be other issues. After installing a fuel cock and re-piping most of the system with the correct nuts, olives and pipes I failed to stop the slight leak at the pump connections. When I swapped the pump for another, using the same tubes, nuts and olives the leak went away. The second pump, a newer but used one, does not have a primer so I'd like to use the original. So like the old faucet that needs the seat reground, is there any way to fix the pump? The seats do look a bit rough. Perhaps fixing an olive on a piece of straight tube (sold
  2. For those of us who wish to retain the original fuel pump and to replace the shaft seal, which raises the cost of the kit by a factor of 3 or 4, I would advise a very close examination of the shaft end. Mine was crudely stamped and had rough sharp edges around the end that needs to be forced through the seal. The old shaft end was quite smooth. I'm sure others have noticed this but I didn't find it mentioned. A few minutes with a file and abrasives would be advisable. Having rebuilt quite a few pumps in the past, this is the first time I've replaced that seal. Perhaps not necessary?
  3. While the exhaust guides are pretty much flush on the inside of the port, the intake comes through at a considerable slope in the port and protrudes more than a quarter inch on one side. Best to use the tops as reference as the TR4 manual indicates, imo. Tom
  4. You are right Ralph, on closer inspection and cleaning of my ancient head, that spring seat does seem to be a machined surface. Tom
  5. Apparently this is not listed in the TR2-3 Factory Service manual but the TR4 manual says "Valve guide protrusion above the top face of the cylinder head - 0.78 in (19.84 mm)." Mine varied from 19.64 to 19.73 mm. I'm not sure what the top face refers to and I measured mine to the surface next to the guide, which is a cast and not a machined surface so it does not seem that they were looking for precision. Tom
  6. Mine protrude just shy of 3/4 inch, measured with a rule. I've always had the machine shop put them in so I trust they have them right. I have not measured them with an accurate instrument but can do if necessary. Tom
  7. Handy tool Des but it looks to me like the block Des has is like mine with the pistons stuck in the liners and the liners stuck in the block. One has push on the rods as they can't be removed with the pistons stuck. Hopefully that's not the case with Des' but if it is it can be done. Tom
  8. It becomes somewhat of a challenge if the crank won't turn. It is then extremely difficult to get at all the big end nuts. Mine also took more than a block of wood and I even failed with an iron pipe with a bronze cap on the business end. A 50 ton press did the trick but broke one of the cylinder liners. The block turned out to be OK. Tom
  9. I carry the original jack but can't remember the last time I used it. Hopefully I'll remember how it goes if I should need it. Virtually all the jacking I do is in or near my garage where I use a low profile floor jack. Tom
  10. I used jute glued to the top of the tunnel with bolts exposed for removal. Also glued jute in the foot wells but no glue on floors. I think that's what it had originally but my car came with rubber mats instead of carpets and nothing underneath. I don't think any of it made a difference. Tom
  11. That used to be a common practice on trucks when I worked for International Harvester many years ago, usually to replace a broken leaf or two. It was a money saver but not necessarily easier bend the tabs, knock out the centerbolt and strip the springs from under the truck. Also the shackles and pins and bushings do wear out. Best to replace the whole spring. Here is a method one fellow used on his TR3: https://triumphtr3b.wordpress.com/2018/12/03/rebuilding-the-rear-suspension-springs-on-a-triumph-tr3/ I've not tried it but it does look promising. Jacking the body is not too h
  12. I leave out the one or two screws which are too difficult to get started every time I remove the tunnel. Soon it will rely on gravity alone. Tom
  13. I can only add a part number, apparently of little value. The yellow note reads: "Piggott mentions an earlier kit, P/N 800898. This may have been the style with the foot-operated pump."
  14. Thanks for the correction Rodbr, I'm no expert as stated, and thanks also for the very interesting accessory diagram. Do I glean fro it that what appear to be wipers (10) were also an "accessory" at the time? Tom
  15. I'm no expert but it looks original to me. Tom
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