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TomMull

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About TomMull

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    New Hampshire USA

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  1. My clutch was ab bit slow to engage but worked otherwise so I decided it was time for a rebuild. The little wave washer on the inner end of the clutch master cylinder was completely flat, no wave in it at all. I don't know if that was my problem but the problem now is finding a replacement. They seem to be quite scarce. Lots of the catalog pictures show the part but after getting a couple of kits without the washer, I find that they have been eliminated from most kits. (I do have some used ones from old cylinders but would prefer new.) Anyone Know of a source and did that washer cause my prob
  2. Agree. It would be even better if it had the rear window. Macy's over here has them but pricey at $595. I did a barely passable job polishing my old faded one. Tom
  3. The only problem I've had is getting the bulb out of the housing after 50++ years. They tend to get stuck and I tend to get impatient and break the capillary seal. I agree the electric makes the dash removal simpler but how often do you need to remove it? Tom
  4. At the risk of being a day late and a dollar short, or in this case several exponential factors of the quip, I might add that no one has asked jir what gearbox he has. If it is the early non-synchro box and it seems to me that it is, then that bracket will not fit without some modification. The lack of a half inch or so in the length of the TR3 gearbox, as compared with the all synchro TR4 box, for which the bracket is designed causes the exact problems jir has expressed. Tom
  5. Thanks Rob, good to know. I've a stuck piston on one of the A calipers on the car and a pair of B calipers on the shelf. Tom
  6. Can I swap type B calipers for type A? By commission # 58XXX, it looks like I should have the B type anyway but my car came to me with the A type on it. Tom
  7. I had a similar problem which turned out to be a plugged rubber hose. Tom
  8. So I guess I'll continue this as there turned out to be other issues. After installing a fuel cock and re-piping most of the system with the correct nuts, olives and pipes I failed to stop the slight leak at the pump connections. When I swapped the pump for another, using the same tubes, nuts and olives the leak went away. The second pump, a newer but used one, does not have a primer so I'd like to use the original. So like the old faucet that needs the seat reground, is there any way to fix the pump? The seats do look a bit rough. Perhaps fixing an olive on a piece of straight tube (sold
  9. For those of us who wish to retain the original fuel pump and to replace the shaft seal, which raises the cost of the kit by a factor of 3 or 4, I would advise a very close examination of the shaft end. Mine was crudely stamped and had rough sharp edges around the end that needs to be forced through the seal. The old shaft end was quite smooth. I'm sure others have noticed this but I didn't find it mentioned. A few minutes with a file and abrasives would be advisable. Having rebuilt quite a few pumps in the past, this is the first time I've replaced that seal. Perhaps not necessary?
  10. While the exhaust guides are pretty much flush on the inside of the port, the intake comes through at a considerable slope in the port and protrudes more than a quarter inch on one side. Best to use the tops as reference as the TR4 manual indicates, imo. Tom
  11. You are right Ralph, on closer inspection and cleaning of my ancient head, that spring seat does seem to be a machined surface. Tom
  12. Apparently this is not listed in the TR2-3 Factory Service manual but the TR4 manual says "Valve guide protrusion above the top face of the cylinder head - 0.78 in (19.84 mm)." Mine varied from 19.64 to 19.73 mm. I'm not sure what the top face refers to and I measured mine to the surface next to the guide, which is a cast and not a machined surface so it does not seem that they were looking for precision. Tom
  13. Mine protrude just shy of 3/4 inch, measured with a rule. I've always had the machine shop put them in so I trust they have them right. I have not measured them with an accurate instrument but can do if necessary. Tom
  14. Handy tool Des but it looks to me like the block Des has is like mine with the pistons stuck in the liners and the liners stuck in the block. One has push on the rods as they can't be removed with the pistons stuck. Hopefully that's not the case with Des' but if it is it can be done. Tom
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