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TomMull

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About TomMull

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    New Hampshire USA

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  1. I can only add a part number, apparently of little value. The yellow note reads: "Piggott mentions an earlier kit, P/N 800898. This may have been the style with the foot-operated pump."
  2. Thanks for the correction Rodbr, I'm no expert as stated, and thanks also for the very interesting accessory diagram. Do I glean fro it that what appear to be wipers (10) were also an "accessory" at the time? Tom
  3. I'm no expert but it looks original to me. Tom
  4. I don't think mine have been messed with so here are a couple of photos. Hope they help. PM with email if you'd like others. Tom
  5. Sorry, Bob. Memory failed me again. Forgot that about all of the British senders of the period were 2 terminal type. Tom
  6. I assume you've checked the earth on the sender. I'd run an extra lead from one of the flange mounting nuts if not. Why the stabilizer, are you using later gauges? You can check the sender by grounding the terminal. The gauge should go to full and stay steady. If it still acts up with the terminal grounded, the fault is probably not in the sender. Tom
  7. Sorry to butt in as mine is a TR3 but I've recently installed a standard mild steel system on it, which incidentally I found hard to source. The Moss mild steel front pipe didn't fit (they graciously refunded my purchase) and I was lucky enough to find a NOS pipe which did. I used the Moss mild steel muffler and an off the shelf glasspack for the rear muffler. I also used the TR4 cruciform hanger which works great. Sound is perfect to my ear and no vibrations or rattles. Tom
  8. Mine has steel disc wheels. T
  9. I use dollies on my TR3. I've got 5 cars in a 3 car garage most of the time and dollies are the only way to do that. The car sits on dollies pretty much all the time. My dollies are not hydraulic so it's a bit of a pain to jack the car up and down each time I drive it or store it. The advantage of the hydraulic one is that you don't need to find a way to jack the car in tight quarters so I do plan to get one set in the near future. Another advantage is that you can let the car down onto the tires if it will be stored for any lenght of time. Although it helps to have two people, you can mo
  10. Ralph, While I understand why you don't want to disturb the front apron, it seems to me to be a whole lot easier to put the engine and transmission in with the apron off and and as a unit. I admit that I've never tried it with the apron on and have never been tempted to try it. I'll be interested to hear how you make out. Tom
  11. Just past the point of making a survivor/driver, imo, but still nice to have it pretty much intact and unmolested. Tom
  12. As G Denson said above, the gauge will absolutely not go through the hole. I double checked with my spares. Tom
  13. The bulb on my tube was stuck in the housing also. As I recall I removed the housing and thermostat and was able to tap and wiggle the tube out. There is a slight lip on the gauge itself after you remove the bezel and seal. I haven't tried it but it might just fit through the hole without the bezel. The bezel is crimped on and does not unscrew. Best to get the bulb free imo. Tom
  14. Most of the kits do not contain the seal that goes on the shaft that operates the diaphragm but that seal is rarely needed. If you do need it it doubles or triples the cost of the kit and may be hard to find. Last I knew, TRF had the kit with the seal. I've also used the Moss kit without issues but their kit does not have that seal. Tom
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