Jump to content

TomMull

TR Register Members
  • Content Count

    465
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

About TomMull

Profile Information

  • Location
    New Hampshire USA

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I'm not sure they are all that meaningful here either but they do reflect some sales history and if Hagerty's data do not reflect international sales, then they are remiss in this day and age of worldwide markets for almost everything. Tom
  2. Not really that odd. Hagerty shows it valued at $11600 ( £8949) in fair condition (#4) and "bidding has ended on this item" does not necessarily mean sold. Tom
  3. I would be very interested in seeing the pictures. Glad you are back at it. Tom
  4. Yes, I think I erred on that fact once before. Slow learner. Tom
  5. Usually the wheel size is stamped on the inside. I have an assortment of old Triumph wheels and very few of them are even close to true so beware. As for size, I personally see no reason to use the weaker 4 inch wheels on the TR2. TR4A wheels will be fine. Tom
  6. I think the earlier hinges were brass and the later ones steel. The seat rail assembly on the left looks like a TR4, the two to the right of it TR3. Not sure about the brackets nor the rails to the right. Tom
  7. Yes, the ones I have, reproductions I assume, are chrome. I did see a survivor car at Bristol, RI British car show that had them painted body color. I think I took a picture and will send it to you if I can find it. Tom
  8. Having solved the leak issue on my OD transmission (the apparent OD leak turned out to be a leak from the selector rods on the shift tower) I decided to practice on a spare transmission before tearing into the second issue; slipping out of gear. I did notice that this problem was probably addressed by the precious owner since there was a “distance piece” on the second gear detent that I don't think is correct. Here's the background on the spare non OD transmission. I bought it with a wrecked parts car fifty years ago and at some point replaced the top cover with a piece of plywood screwed on in it's place. It's been in a barn ever since. When I removed the wood, I found a puddle of sludgy oil in the bottom and some light corrosion on the top gears. After spraying all with WD40, I was able to shift it by tapping the selectors and turn the transmission in all gears and reverse. However, every so often it would simply stop turning, The more I messed with it the worse it got. At any rate, this was a spare that I was using for practice, so I started the disassemble. I removed the lock screw from the speedometer driven gear and attempted to remove the gear and bearing. I put a thin wrench on the bearing flats and no luck. I then screwed an old cable end to the bearing and tried to turn it clock wise. That moved it but it took considerable force. I was then able to wiggle it with the thin wrench and pry it out. I was not totally surprised to find the drive gear destroyed but I do wonder how I did it. There was no core in the cable end the driven gear was not seized to the bearing. Was it related to the prior locking of the gears? I have since removed the tail housing using a bearing separator on the end of the housing and a two arm puller. Relatively little force required but I did find a broken circlip in the housing. Again, previous damage or something I did? Nothing else obviously amiss. Tom
  9. Very nice solution Ian. My idea was to weld up a dogleg to lower the sliding part of the boom on my engine crane. I wonder if anyone has tried a similar approach? I put this off when I found and fixed a very substantial leak in the shift rods with the transmission in situ but will need to haul the the thing to deal with a second gear issue in the spring. (I'm hoping to be somewhat more ambitious then) Tom
  10. For what it's worth, the thing bid to £60,305.00 with the reserve not met , too much for a clone, too little for a real deal works car, IMO. But assuming the bids were legitimate, you can't really argue with the high bidder. I wonder where it will show up next? Tom
  11. How many pipes would you have to do to pay for one of these? (Actually that pipe might just fit onto a conventional bead roller). Tube beading Tom
  12. Here's one for $379 (£ 288 about). Wiper motor Shopworn and untested so the middle of Peter's range seems about right. Also fit's other British cars of the era. Maybe list it for a DB2. Tom
  13. No help to you in the UK but here in New England there's a company that builds springs from scratch. I used them extensively when I worked for International Harvester many years ago. A big part of their business is with heavy trucks and equipment but they can build springs for anything. They were never cheap but their work, as I remember, was faultless. They were and still are a family owned business started in 1849, yes that is 1849, and have so far survived the onslaught of Asian competition. http://www.palmer-spring.com/ Tom
  14. Congratulation Glynn, quite an honor and white wall tyres too!
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.