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  1. You might also make sure the interlocks are in place if you take the cover off. (Put the selector in first gear position and try to move the other rails. They should not move.) Tom
  2. Here is a Long Door on BAT in the US. Lots of "upgrades" but looks quite solid to me. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1954-triumph-tr2-3/ Tom
  3. Perhaps per Imperial gallon, 4.54609 liyters?
  4. Things go together very well including the filler cap. Very nice car and my favorite Triumph color too. Tom
  5. I use seam sealer (dum-dum) that comes in strips. It's not too sticky, which is important to me as my cover comes off quite often for reasons I'm ashamed to mention. Tom
  6. Much less of a problem over here with LHD and for what it's worth, my '59 pre-60k TR3 with screw terminals has them going down while my '60 post 60k TR3 with spade terminals has them toward the side. Tom
  7. I don't know how closely our climate in New Hampshire compares with BC but if there are any old cars here without rust, they almost surely came from somewhere else. I kept my TR3 stored in an unheated garage here in New Hampshire for 30 years. Although it did show some rust beginning when it was first put into storage, it continued to rust badly over that next 30 years. The garage had a concrete floor and and was dry but not insulated nor even air tight. Bare sheet metal scraps in the same garage were covered with surface rust the first winter. Certainly well painted surfaces would fare much better and since my car already had some rust started it might not have fared better in more climate controlled storage. I now keep my cars in a well insulated garage which has heat but that is turned off when I'm away for long periods in the winter. I'm guessing that the insulation keeps the temperature swings to a minimum along with the associated moisture and condensation. I don't lift the tires, use battery maintainers or do anything else for storage. The only problem I've had so far (fourth winter) was when I inadvertently left a garage window open for several days in the very early spring in with nighttime temperatures well below freezing and got a nasty mold on the seats of my old Buick, which was right under the window.. I do run a de-humidifier in the summer. My supply of sheet metal (which serves as my canary) stays bright. For what it's worth, I recently visited an climate controlled auto storage facility nearby and it was pretty well packed with cars literally inches apart. Tom
  8. There is another video listed with the one above that shows the extent of corrosion in the rear section.
  9. Condition seems pretty typical "barn find" to me. I'd rather have an untouched rusty example that one that had been patched and bondoed several times over the last 50 +years. It would be nice of course to find the chassis in repairable condition as well as the inner wings, firewall and rear apron. If it were on this side of the pond and I didn't have too many cars already, I'd at least have a look. It is after all, a long door. Tom
  10. I have conversed with Moss USA technical support department and I thought the following information might be helpful. Moss has kindly refunded my purchase price with no requirement for sending the pipe back and they are now working on the problem. Tom
  11. Could also be from a bad tyre. What I do find curious is that the wheel was painted with the weights on. Normally, the weights would have been removed prior to the tyre dismount or failing that certainly before the wheel was prepped for paint. Easy enough to check to see if the wheels are true. Tom
  12. And some pre 60k LHD cars too .e.g my 58023L. Tom
  13. A local club member sold me a NOS pipe supplied by JC Whitney about 50 years ago. Still had all the stickers on it with a bit of surface rust. It fit perfectly. If JC Whitney could get it right... Tom
  14. ijonsson, Does your car have an OD? I think mine would fit except for that. Thanks for the reply, Tom
  15. Standard exhaust in plain steel, Moss downpipe #860-000. Tom
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