doddel Posted June 17, 2019 Report Share Posted June 17, 2019 After I bought my TR3 (finally!!! Yay!) at the end of last year, I had to store the car till now. When I stored the car, it ran ok, but spilled fuel from one of the carburetors. I adjusted the carburetor, after which the fuel spill stopped but engine didn't start. I had to get the car into a garage so might have tried to restart a bit too much, probably drowning the enige. Now we are a few months later, and I want to start driving the car. I had a serious problem with my previous classic car after not using it for a while, with the fuel going bad. So what should I do before trying to start the engine? I guess give the carburetor a bit more fuel again. I've already replaced the spark plugs (they were black...). But what about the possibly bad fuel? Just try and see? Add new fuel? Drain the fuel? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted June 17, 2019 Report Share Posted June 17, 2019 Hi Doddel, Bad fuel is a serious possibility. First take all the plugs out. Spin the engine and make sure you have sparks whilst doing this. Charge the battery so that it gives the engine a fair chance. Drain the float chambers and top up with 97RON or better. Remove the air filters - possibly consider a squirt of 'Start You Bast%^&' this is desperation time. Heat the plugs with a hot air gun etc and refit. TRy to start with normal choke Where abouts are you in the UK. Perhaps a local club member could assist. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted June 17, 2019 Report Share Posted June 17, 2019 As for not starting - make sure you are pulling the choke all the way out. Some can be quite stiff and need considerable force so that you think it's there - but it isn't. There needs to be about two inches of choke rod showing between the knob and the dashboard. You shouldn't need to use any ether spray - that is a last resort. As a matter of interest what did you do to 'adjust' the carb? Spillage sounds like a float-valve problem rather than adjustment. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
doddel Posted June 17, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2019 I'm in Belgium. Local help would be great because I've never actually driven the car (or any TR3), so don't wanna do anything stupid after (if...) it starts... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
doddel Posted June 17, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2019 1 minute ago, RobH said: As a matter of interest what did you do to 'adjust' the carb? Spillage sounds like a float-valve problem rather than adjustment. I cleaned the needle and then lowered the float lever a tiny bit to get a bit less fuel in (I did this based on watching youtube videos for like 30 min - I have no history as a mechanic) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted June 17, 2019 Report Share Posted June 17, 2019 OK that adjustment makes sense. You must have had the carb lid off to get at the needle though - did you check that the piston still moves freely afterwards by lifting it and allowing it to drop back? It should lift with some resistance from the spring and the oil dashpot and come down smoothly with a 'clunk' as it hits the body. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted June 17, 2019 Report Share Posted June 17, 2019 Hi Doddle, What is your name? Have you got a good WorkShop manual - this one is one line and is good https://app.box.com/s/830280775a109252d69d Page 381 Here is reasonable (USA) electric wiring diagram http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr24a.pdf Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted June 18, 2019 Report Share Posted June 18, 2019 Dont forget Rob's suggestion about the chokes. They often stick, or the front one works but the rear doesnt. Pull out the choke and lock it and then go and manually pull the jets down so they are fully descended. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted June 18, 2019 Report Share Posted June 18, 2019 I suggest that you contact the TR club in Belgium: Peter Verheyen, Boerenkrijglaan 12, B-2980 Zoersel website: trregister.be email and phone number probably on website (I don't want to put them here). Also TR clubs in Holland, Germany and most other European countries - have a look at the TR Register's main site. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
doddel Posted June 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2019 So, I checked the choke, and it was indeed not coming out. Corrected this. Still not starting. Having tried starting fluid yet. Made a short clip of what's happening, maybe that can help with the diagnosis? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
doddel Posted June 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2019 btw, took one of the air filters off to check the inside of the carb, and it does need some cleaning. Shouldn't be the reason for not starting though Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted June 24, 2019 Report Share Posted June 24, 2019 (edited) Assuming new clean fuel in float chambers and the car ran before being parked and the settings have not been messed with. Our tried and tested method is remove all plugs. Heat the tips of them all with a blow torch. Refit using gloves! Try to start in ordinary choke staring way. If still no go ..... drain water and refill with hot water. Remove and heat plugs again. Try again with fresh battery or even second battery as a jump start. If no go shew it the tow rope and the Land Rover. If still no go I'll give 50 quid for it as a non runner...... Peter W Edited June 24, 2019 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
doddel Posted June 25, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2019 Tried with break cleaner fluid today, and ... started immediately for a few seconds So next up is a complete cleaning of the carburators. I guess I'd better replace the fuel filter as well? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted June 25, 2019 Report Share Posted June 25, 2019 That video sounds like bad ignition to me, there's no coughing. Check you are getting sparks and if yes, then the points gap. Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted June 25, 2019 Report Share Posted June 25, 2019 If there are sparks then there is no fuel. after the long layup i suggest you check/overhaul the fuel system - pump,filter,carbs if it were running but badly i’d suggest redex or similar to clean out the ‘gum’ but as ot isn’t running this isnt an option steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kiwifrog Posted June 26, 2019 Report Share Posted June 26, 2019 What is the strange buzzing noise ? do you have an electric fuel pump that is making that noise ? If so it sounds like it is cavatating due to lack of fuel. Have you removed the tops from the float chambers to see if they are full of petrol? If not fill them with fresh petrol put the lids back on and see if the car will start. Do you have a fuel filter in the engine bay ? is it full of petrol ? It could be that you have crud in the petrol tank blocking the fuel outlet preventing petrol getting to the carbs cheers Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
doddel Posted July 11, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2019 Finally got round to fixing the car this morning. Here is what caused the fuel spilling problem in the carb: there was fuel inside the float, so it didn't stay on top of the fuel. Fixed that (temporarily) by drilling a hole in the float. Oh, and turns out the fuel meter doesn't work, so the noise you're hearing in that clip from the fuel pump, was simply a fuel pump not getting any fuel because ... the tank was empty Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted July 11, 2019 Report Share Posted July 11, 2019 I’m struggling to understand how drilling a hole in a float stops it from sinking because it’s full of fuel. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
doddel Posted July 11, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2019 2 hours ago, peejay4A said: I’m struggling to understand how drilling a hole in a float stops it from sinking because it’s full of fuel. I drilled a small hole, let the fuel out (by shaking the float). It doesn't fill again because in order for fuel to get in, air has to go out. Which doesn't happen when there is only one small hole Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted July 11, 2019 Report Share Posted July 11, 2019 1 minute ago, doddel said: I drilled a small hole, let the fuel out (by shaking the float). It doesn't fill again because in order for fuel to get in, air has to go out. Which doesn't happen when there is only one small hole Hmmm. I'm struggling too. Why did it sink? Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted July 11, 2019 Report Share Posted July 11, 2019 6 minutes ago, doddel said: in order for fuel to get in, air has to go out. Which doesn't happen when there is only one small hole It will, as the pressure and temperature change... Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
doddel Posted July 11, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2019 of course. This was a temporary solution. Will have to replace the float. Somehow it got filled up with fuel and it didn't float anymore. Don't ask me how the fuel got in, because there doesn't seem to be a way to open the float... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted July 11, 2019 Report Share Posted July 11, 2019 They split open when old, modern fuel does not help. You should replace them with "stay up" floats http://sucarb.co.uk/float-chambers-spares/floats/t2-floats/stayup-float-kit-t2.html If you can afford them ! Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted July 12, 2019 Report Share Posted July 12, 2019 If the hole is at the bottom of the float then it will work (ignoring temp/preesure fluctuation). I showed this to my Scouts at a raft race event. If you have a bung missing then put the fill hole in the barrel at the 6-o-clock position. Indeed you will get a little in but not anything Titanic. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.