astontr6 Posted April 10, 2019 Report Share Posted April 10, 2019 On 4/2/2019 at 7:42 PM, ed_h said: Maybe, but it sure looks and feels more like sand than scale. It also doesn't react to acids the way typical scale does. Ed People that I know who run vintage and classic cars with Fernox F3 in their water systems, this stuff is usually used to clean out central heating systems. They don't seem to have suffered any ill effects from using it other than a very clean inside to their blocks and rads! Bruce. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jogger321 Posted April 18, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2019 Thanks for all your help on this..I'm going to do the flush after the bank holiday as the weather looks good for driving the TR6 rather than spanner it... Final question...Should I remove the thermostat when doing the flushing...Does it have any merit doing this? Many thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted April 18, 2019 Report Share Posted April 18, 2019 It may be good to remove it, to avoid issues with blocking it. The can will probably say this is not needed. I had to remove mine as it was clogged but that was probably related to a phosphoric acid treatment I did before I used an cooling water cleaner. Without the stat the flow will be higher too. If you do, have a new gasket ready. Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C Posted April 18, 2019 Report Share Posted April 18, 2019 I'd remove the thermostat- the faster the flushing fluid moves the better, plus the obvious problem is that it might clog up with loosened crud. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
elclem1 Posted April 19, 2019 Report Share Posted April 19, 2019 I have used ST Marc or as the uk would say Flash the stuff that cleans floors without scratching ( Scottish accent) mix the crystals in a bucket of warm water until dissolved, empty the rad and engine of existing water as best you can usually by the bottom rad hose. Put the mix into the rad and top up. Run the engine until at operating temp making sure the heater valve is open, After 20 -30 mins leave to cool down and drain the system. You will be amazed how much stuff comes out sometimes slurry like. Top up with fresh water and repeat until the water is clear that is being drained, or if you have access to a hose put it on the heater hose and another pipe from the heater valve and flush that way until clear. I usually remove the thermostat to ensure good flow and to move all of the muck. When you are happy that all of the crud has gone top up with anti freeze of your choice. Simples! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
trtyme Posted May 14, 2019 Report Share Posted May 14, 2019 I have the rust water issue also. Engine only has maybe 1000 miles on it. They evidently didn't clean the block out. Tried getting that plug out, couldn't budge it. So after every drive I'd drain the rad, flush till clean and do the same over and over ha ha ha! Probably 15 times now. Never ending. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AarhusTr6 Posted May 14, 2019 Report Share Posted May 14, 2019 I have flushed mine numerous times and keep getting this brown sludge. . .its doin' my 'ead in...! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted May 14, 2019 Report Share Posted May 14, 2019 I cleaned my block with a 30% phosforic acid solution, and noticed it did not remove all deposits. I flushed it with cold water until clean. During my first start-up, when the engine warmed up, lots of brown sludge came free, giving the new coolant a rusty appearance. I drained, flushed with water again, and now it is clean. Will probably have to do this again after my first long run. Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DaveN Posted May 15, 2019 Report Share Posted May 15, 2019 @Jogger321 Halfords do a two part cleaner that’s not too pricey. First bottle is the cleaning agent the second is the neutralising solution. Also definitely pull that plug on the side of the block if you can and do as Roger suggested with a length of old coat hangar.... you may be surprised at what comes out! JfI with mine I pulled the hose off the heater flow and return and stuck a hose on it and flushed it both ways, and stuffed my pressure washer in that block drain...messy!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil H 4 Posted January 23, 2021 Report Share Posted January 23, 2021 Having finally managed to remove the coolant plug and poked around with a coat hanger then a bradawl I am hitting hard material after about 1" The system is currently empty having been cleaned and flushed ( clean water now coming out of bottom hose ) Should I fill the system again with cleaner or just water and poke around again if so how far in should the metal prodder go in. If its solid can it be left until the time comes for an engine rebuild or should I be a bit more aggressive ( tap with a hammer ) to clear a path, or just leave well alone. Haven't had any problems with overheating. Guidance and wisdom appreciated as always. Phil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 23, 2021 Report Share Posted January 23, 2021 Hi Phil, if it is the drain plug in the block you are probably hitting a piston bore. If you have cleared it enough to allow water to flow out then leave it there. You could use any of the proprietary cooling system cleaners (Radflush etc) or even central heating cleaner. Bung a couple of bottles in. Run the engine for a couple of hours and then drain and flush. Refill with a decent 'BLUE' coolant. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil H 4 Posted January 23, 2021 Report Share Posted January 23, 2021 Thanks Roger, thats the morning sorted then ! Phil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
astontr6 Posted January 24, 2021 Report Share Posted January 24, 2021 16 hours ago, RogerH said: Hi Phil, if it is the drain plug in the block you are probably hitting a piston bore. If you have cleared it enough to allow water to flow out then leave it there. You could use any of the proprietary cooling system cleaners (Radflush etc) or even central heating cleaner. Bung a couple of bottles in. Run the engine for a couple of hours and then drain and flush. Refill with a decent 'BLUE' coolant. You cannot beat giving your cooling system a good dose of Fernox Cleaner F3, which will remove Sludge, Scale and Debris. It is for Central Heating Systems but it certainly removes the scale around 5 & 6 cylinders and unblocks the block drain plug. The veteran car boys use this product together with Fernox Preservative to stop the crud forming in the first place! Bruce. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted January 24, 2021 Report Share Posted January 24, 2021 40 minutes ago, astontr6 said: You cannot beat giving your cooling system a good dose of Fernox Cleaner F3, which will remove Sludge, Scale and Debris. It is for Central Heating Systems but it certainly removes the scale around 5 & 6 cylinders and unblocks the block drain plug. The veteran car boys use this product together with Fernox Preservative to stop the crud forming in the first place! Bruce. Good idea in the F3 cleaner Bruce, it transformed the central heating in my old house! F1 is the preservative, but i’m unsure about using that in the TR as it may not have a suitable additive mix and isn’t antifreeze Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
astontr6 Posted January 24, 2021 Report Share Posted January 24, 2021 46 minutes ago, Steves_TR6 said: Good idea in the F3 cleaner Bruce, it transformed the central heating in my old house! F1 is the preservative, but i’m unsure about using that in the TR as it may not have a suitable additive mix and isn’t antifreeze Steve Hi Steve, A friend of mine uses the Fernox preservative in his old Crossley with anti freeze and has had no problems for a good number of years. Bruce 51 minutes ago, Steves_TR6 said: Good idea in the F3 cleaner Bruce, it transformed the central heating in my old house! F1 is the preservative, but i’m unsure about using that in the TR as it may not have a suitable additive mix and isn’t antifreeze Steve I Quote Link to post Share on other sites
astontr6 Posted January 24, 2021 Report Share Posted January 24, 2021 On 5/14/2019 at 2:57 PM, trtyme said: I have the rust water issue also. Engine only has maybe 1000 miles on it. They evidently didn't clean the block out. Tried getting that plug out, couldn't budge it. So after every drive I'd drain the rad, flush till clean and do the same over and over ha ha ha! Probably 15 times now. Never ending. Put Fernox in it that will sort it out! Run engine a few times for a few days before draining including driving to make sure it is up two full temperature. Then try that block plug again? Bruce. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil H 4 Posted January 24, 2021 Report Share Posted January 24, 2021 So Screwfix it is then, do they do snow chains Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C Posted January 24, 2021 Report Share Posted January 24, 2021 Good grief, snow. The Aust Met Bureau has reduced our predicted maximum today to 41 degrees C. If I take the TR out I have to put towels on the seats to avoid bottom fry. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 24, 2021 Report Share Posted January 24, 2021 5 minutes ago, Mike C said: Good grief, snow. The Aust Met Bureau has reduced our predicted maximum today to 41 degrees C. If I take the TR out I have to put towels on the seats to avoid bottom fry. For us to get 41C bottom fry we would have to sit on the BBQ. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chris Bottomley Posted January 25, 2021 Report Share Posted January 25, 2021 If you have a high torque starter and are flushing the block through the side drain either remove the starter or protect it well from water etc. I learned this the hard way, got a good lesson in dismantling the starter though to remove the resulting corrosion to try and get it working again The wrong placement of the drain hole on some these starters, on the top as supplied for TR fitment, is covered in other posts. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil H 4 Posted January 25, 2021 Report Share Posted January 25, 2021 Thanks Chris, I had been looking at this. Following the cleaner I had intended to drain, refill and run the engine to circulate, flush and fill again, repeat twice to ensure the passages were as clear as possible and that all the cleaner had been removed. Then fill with antifreeze / water mix. So guess I'll have to protect the starter or this could go on pass lockdown ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ed_h Posted January 26, 2021 Report Share Posted January 26, 2021 Find a drain cock that has a snout on it to attach flexible tubing. This leads the drained fluid safely away from the starter, and neatly into a container. Ed Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil H 4 Posted January 26, 2021 Report Share Posted January 26, 2021 Having cut up one of the wife's wellingtons to protect the starter ( I think / hope they are the ones that leak ), Holts speed flush, Fernox 3 for 2 days, running and flushing lots of yuck came out but not a dribble from the drain hole. So having filled with 50%-50% Bluecol and de-ionised water decided to pop her away until we can have a really good run. May leave the cleaning process till next year and repeat as she has been running fine, at which time will fit a drain as Ed,s ( nice One ) if there's anything to drain away Good news is I now have heat in the cabin which is where this all started. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DaveN Posted January 27, 2021 Report Share Posted January 27, 2021 Now I’m not recommending this but, with mine I pulled out the block drain and fished around with a length of wire coat hangar. Then disconnected the heater hoses and connected up to mains pressure. It worked! eventually a great big brown slug of **** slowly oozed out. Then reversed the flow every few minutes until it ran clear. I used the heater valve to direct the flow back through the heater and removed the rad cap to flush the radiator. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil H 4 Posted January 27, 2021 Report Share Posted January 27, 2021 Thanks Dave, I connected the heater hose to a hose pipe but the pressure is not great so no movement. I think the next stage will be a pressure washer but I need to consider how to rig up. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.