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Chris Bottomley

TR Register Members
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About Chris Bottomley

Profile Information

  • Location
    Somerset, UK
  • Cars Owned:
    1974 TR6 CR, 1974 GT6 Mk3

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188 profile views
  1. Just another thought on seat travel. My TR6 had limited rear seat travel, I investigated the runners and they had no spacers underneath the bolt positions. This caused the sliders to jam before they were fully back as the runners were distorted when bolted down through the carpet. I made some spacers to go under the rails and won back another inch or so of travel. Enough for me but then I'm only 5'8".
  2. If you have a high torque starter and are flushing the block through the side drain either remove the starter or protect it well from water etc. I learned this the hard way, got a good lesson in dismantling the starter though to remove the resulting corrosion to try and get it working again The wrong placement of the drain hole on some these starters, on the top as supplied for TR fitment, is covered in other posts.
  3. You mean like these, unfortunately not on a sixties car though! The spare won't fit in the wheel well so it has a 1970s space saver. Chris
  4. On the original fibre tunnel on my GT6 the insulation in the plastic bag was stapled onto the inside of the tunnel moulding. I am pretty sure that this was the standard Triumph installation, the Bond Equipe I had in the early 1970's had the same insulation. On the GT6 I replaced it with SilentCoat insulation sheets on the inside of the tunnel, it seemed quieter and cooler afterwards. I used the same type of insulation sheets on the inside of the plastic tunnel in my TR6.
  5. Hi, It may not be the same issue but when I got my TR6 it had one of the current "replacement" Lucas pumps on top of the water bottle. This failed coming up to the first MOT. I then got through a couple of replacements that again only worked for a couple of times. On dismantling the I found that the impellor was sticking causing the drive shaft to destroy the locating slot and rotate freely. The last pump I obtained actually came with a note stating that it was not self priming, this information was missing from all the pevious ones. I mounted it below the water bottle and once i
  6. The smoke may be due to the heater fan switch having an unused bare connector at the bottom that becomes live when the fan is switched on. If you are not careful when putting back the switch console and H frame the spare contact can get bent and touch the H frame. Turning on the heater fan = smoke and, potentially, a patch repair to the loom (and in my case adding an extra fuse to this unfused circuit on an TR6 CR when repairing the loom). Always a good idea to insulate the unused bottom connector on the switch if you have one.
  7. Hi, If you are still looking I used Brian Robins at Catcott Garage (between Street and Bridgwater) last year to do some tidying up of rust holes and a full metal respray on my GT6 last year. Happy with the result and the cost was comparable with other quotes I had. I live near Langport if you would like to see the results- send me a PM if you would like more info. The only comment I have is that he is quite busy so it took some time to take the car in and even longer to do the work! Chris
  8. When I bought my TR6 two and a half years ago it had a new looking "Lucas" GWW125 pump installed on top of the washer bottle, i.e in a position that needs a self priming pump. This failed before the next MOT. A replacement then failed after a couple of uses as did a further pump. None of the replacements came with any installation instructions. All failures were due to the rubber impellor seizing and the drive spindle wearing away the slot it engages in on the impellor. For this years MOT I decided to splash out and buy one of the uprated Revington pumps, these are visually similar to t
  9. My 74 TR6 has a white stripe on British Racing Green paint applied by a previous owner. A point to note is that a self adhesive tape stripe has been used. It looks OK, however the adhesive softens in sunny weather (possibly not helped by the dark paint) and it is easy to move the line accidentally e.g. when fxing the tonneau. I would recomend a painted coachline.
  10. Hi all When I bought my TR6 last year it had a recently fitted generic Lucas WSB 100 12V universal washer pump. This failed shortly (seized) after getting the car. I have since replaced the washer pump twice with similar replacements from different suppliers. In both cases the pump worked OK when fitted but then seized when used again about a month later. The pumps seem to be seizing due to the "rubber" impeller expanding and jamming. My only guess is that this is due to screen wash additive. I currently use generic Halfords or supermarket screen wash. Has anyone else experienced
  11. Kevo, Thanks for the offer of a fibre glass tunnel. Have sent a PM. Regards Chris
  12. Thanks for the info guys, will have to decide whether to buy a cheapie and get the jigsaw out or raid the piggy bank. From the GT6 experience having one that fits well saves a lot of cursing. Chris
  13. Hi all I'm new to the forum and relatively new to the TR6 (a 74 CR aquired last May). I need to sort out the angle drive and the rear engine mounts which will involve removing the tunnel. As it is still the original fibreboard tunnel and is liberally coated with loose duck tape I suspect it will end up in pieces. Does anyone have any views on the relative merits of the plastic/ glass fibre replacements? I couldn't find any other threads on this. I guess that there is only a single source for each? I had some sucess on my GT6 reinforcing the fibreboard tunnel with glass mat and resin but
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