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New Tyres for the TR4A


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Hi Folks,

            I'm having a look around for tyre options.

At the moment I have Vredstein T-Trac. They work well but have recently been letting the smoke out.

These are available for apprx £40 each.  Wet grip rating 'B' but again they work well.

There is the Toyo 330 at apprx £50 each. with a wet grip of 'E'

The Vredstein 'Sprint Classic' appears to be  -     'EU tyre label - exempt class  -    (what does that mean) these come in at £115 each.

 

So do I go for what I already have, even though the smoke escapes. 

Or go for a little more expensive with the Toyo.

Or do I blow the family silver and go for the Sprint classic that has no information regarding anything.

What i would like is a nice steady Firestone F530 but they are no longer available.

Hmmm choices choices.

https://www.camskill.co.uk/m53b0s408p0/Car_Tyres_-_MPV_Tyres_-_People_Carrier_Tyres_-_15_inch_R15_inch_-_165_80_15_165_80R15_R15_inch_-_165_15_165R15

 

Roger

Edited by RogerH
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You will be hard pressed to notice any  performance difference between the sprint classic and the TTrac 2; I can’t discern any difference. I guess that fresh tyres of either flavour may be an improvement on your old ones and T Trac 2 may be better than T Trac. 

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I know they're pricey, but can anything hold a candle to the XAS in that size?

I had them on my '250 in 185s and they blew away Dunlops, Avons, Pirellis and Michelin 195/65s in my experience. NLA in 185 :( but you can still get 165s.

Now one of mine has the XVS and the other has XWX. 51 psi max pressure for either, if that tells you anything.

 

Cheers,

Tom

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Hi Roger,

I was in this position a couple of weeks ago. I have a set of XAS on chrome wires wheels which have done around 3000 miles which cost around £900 inc tubes and fitting and balance. They are already 5 years old so potentially another 3-4 years left in lifetime! Not a cheap option?

I fitted a set of T Trac 2 to my Minilight replicas and I like them to drive very much. At £175 for the set compared to nearly 3 times the price for Vredstein Sprint Classic.

It really boils down to how you want to spend the cash and" you pays your money you makes your choice" IMHO I would stick with the T Trac 2 and drive as though the other guys are idiots.

You can smoke XAS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Hi Folks,

        thanks for your replies. I think it must be the T-TRac then.

 

isn't it funny how when a problem happens one starts to think sideways.

On the way to the Thames Valley meet yesterday, after the last puff of smoke escaped, my mind began to construct an ABS for the 4A - has anybody done that yet.

It gets complicated.

 

Roger

Edited by RogerH
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2 minutes ago, RogerH said:

Hi Folks,

        thanks for your replies. I think it must be the T-TRac then.

 

isn't it funny how when a problem happens one starts to think sideways.

On the way to the Thames Valley meet yesterday, after the last puff of smoke escaped, my mind began to construct an ABS for the 4A - has anybody done that yet.

It gets complicated.

 

Roger

Probably do able but you would more than likely need the ECU from the donor system to go with the sensors and the control module. Dont forget you are walking about on a good pair of ABS controls, did no-one ever teach you cadence braking?

Stuart.

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Hi Stuart,

                     up to September I have not had a problem braking - slow or hard the car would stop.

However last month there were three instances of dodgy brake lights and some pig in  a Eurobox with a caravan barging his way through a small gap.

My speed is never that impressive but perhaps I was too close.

With the daft ABS idea it is the ECU that would be the killer. 

I'm sure it could be done with simple logic devices though.  But that is another adventure.

 

Roger

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5 hours ago, RogerH said:

Hi Stuart,

                     up to September I have not had a problem braking - slow or hard the car would stop.

However last month there were three instances of dodgy brake lights and some pig in  a Eurobox with a caravan barging his way through a small gap.

My speed is never that impressive but perhaps I was too close.

With the daft ABS idea it is the ECU that would be the killer. 

I'm sure it could be done with simple logic devices though.  But that is another adventure.

 

Roger

Doddle!

Find someone breaking a VC10/Victor (or Jensen FF) and get the Maxaret units from it.  Simple plumb in job and mount them so they run on the inside of the wheel rim......

http://www.jensenmuseum.org/dunlop-maxaret/

http://victorxl231.blogspot.com/2013/05/

 

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3 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Doddle!

Find someone breaking a VC10/Victor (or Jensen FF) and get the Maxaret units from it.  Simple plumb in job and mount them so they run on the inside of the wheel rim......

http://www.jensenmuseum.org/dunlop-maxaret/

http://victorxl231.blogspot.com/2013/05/

 

And find an underwriter equivalent of a "YTS" new starter who will sign off on the insurance as pointed out by Charlie boy. I'd pay good money to be at the new business meeting where our intrepid YTS  is congratulated for the business he's written UNTIL they get to the TR4a WITH ABS :o

Mick Richards  

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37 minutes ago, RogerH said:

Hi Pete,

            my first thought was a Maxaret out of a TRident DH121

I spent many an hour testing these units at BEA in 1967

 

Roger

Are there still lots of them in the breakers yards in China?

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