AarhusTr6 Posted June 15, 2018 Report Share Posted June 15, 2018 Hi all I can see plenty of good and informative threads on above and I am OK with the tasks but I have two additional questions: 1. What is the best quality (or good quality) bearings to buy and where? I hear there are some crap quality ones out there? 2. Whilst doing job, anything else worth doing, ie whilst I'm down there. . . . Thanks Rich Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DaveN Posted June 15, 2018 Report Share Posted June 15, 2018 If you are intent replacing the bearings I would pay particular attention to the condition of the axle, get it crack checked! Good luck separating the tapers! Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AarhusTr6 Posted June 15, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2018 (edited) Was wondering on quality of this?? https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/hub-bearing-kit-rear-ghk1015.html?assoc=124877 But what I find odd is the individual bearings seem to cost as much as the kit Rich Edited June 15, 2018 by AarhusTr6 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Boyd Posted June 15, 2018 Report Share Posted June 15, 2018 Hi, You can buy a kit that consists of..... 1 x TIMKEN inner bearing 1 x TIMKEN outer bearing 1 x outer seal 1 x inner seal 1 x collapsable spacer 1 x adjuster spacer 1 x stoneguard 1 x adjusting nut lock tab 1 x drive flange key 1 x outer nyloc nut 1 x washer for outer nut Cheers, Tom Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chris59 Posted June 15, 2018 Report Share Posted June 15, 2018 (edited) If both are Koyos, they should last, but not as long as original rhp, Timken or skf. Edited June 15, 2018 by Chris59 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AarhusTr6 Posted June 15, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2018 Hi, You can buy a kit that consists of..... 1 x TIMKEN inner bearing 1 x TIMKEN outer bearing 1 x outer seal 1 x inner seal 1 x collapsable spacer 1 x adjuster spacer 1 x stoneguard 1 x adjusting nut lock tab 1 x drive flange key 1 x outer nyloc nut 1 x washer for outer nut Cheers, Tom Hi Tom Is it this? http://www.triumphspecialtuning.com/index.php?route=product/product&manufacturer_id=27&product_id=264 Rich Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C Posted June 15, 2018 Report Share Posted June 15, 2018 In Australia I'd get the numbers off the old bearings then go to an industrial bearing supplier and ask for the equivalent in SKF or Timken. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Boyd Posted June 15, 2018 Report Share Posted June 15, 2018 Hi Tom Is it this? http://www.triumphspecialtuning.com/index.php?route=product/product&manufacturer_id=27&product_id=264 Rich Yes it is. Obviously other specialists can supply the same.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted June 23, 2018 Report Share Posted June 23, 2018 (edited) Hi Rich, unless you fit a NEW axle you run the threat of losing a wheel. The old axle is 40 or 50 years old. Due to the type of steel any crack testing method is useless. If it shows no crack then it could be on the point of breaking and it will go fast. Do Not use a rebuilt hub unless it has a new axle. Moss assemble hubs with all new components with quality bearings. Mine have now run 15 months and still running well. No connections with Moss other than happy chappy. Roger Edited July 9, 2018 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted June 23, 2018 Report Share Posted June 23, 2018 Hi Rich, Roger says..."Due to the type of steel any crack testing method is useless. If it shows no crack then it could be on the point of breaking and it will go fast." Roger used to carry out non destructive crack testing on aeroplanes...he da man. He say Fit NEW hubs + 1 I also say ...fit them to whatever your choice of driveshaft is( when they break you don't lose a wheel and get catapulted over banks ). Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AarhusTr6 Posted July 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2018 Hi guys So I have a lovely set of new inner and outer Timkins bearings and fittings and the news on the axle has got me thinking now (thanks Roger) therefore I guess my dilemma now is what new parts should I order? Thanks all Rich Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Moltu Posted July 10, 2018 Report Share Posted July 10, 2018 I'm with Roger - don't re-use the stub axle. Likely to be 50 years old, been put through a lot of forces and likely to be subjected to more just to get it apart. There was nothing wrong with the original hub/bearing set up as verified by many cars running on their original hubs. In many ways the bearings aren't an issue be they Koyo, Timken or RHP it's the stub axle - (you are unlikely to do enough miles to wear out the bearing) Back in the day these hubs were used on the Stags and 2000s too - the only ones that managed to wear out their bearings in the usual life of the car were the estates when used for lugging heavy loads and long distances. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
astontr6 Posted July 10, 2018 Report Share Posted July 10, 2018 I'm with Roger - don't re-use the stub axle. Likely to be 50 years old, been put through a lot of forces and likely to be subjected to more just to get it apart. There was nothing wrong with the original hub/bearing set up as verified by many cars running on their original hubs. In many ways the bearings aren't an issue be they Koyo, Timken or RHP it's the stub axle - (you are unlikely to do enough miles to wear out the bearing) Back in the day these hubs were used on the Stags and 2000s too - the only ones that managed to wear out their bearings in the usual life of the car were the estates when used for lugging heavy loads and long distances. Also reps with high mileage 2000 saloons of +90K, we had one of our saloons become a 3 wheeler! He was lucky and he only demolished a petrol pump as he turned into the petrol station and that was in the 1970's. Therefore in my view only buy all new. Bruce. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted July 10, 2018 Report Share Posted July 10, 2018 (edited) I'm with Roger - don't re-use the stub axle. Likely to be 50 years old, been put through a lot of forces and likely to be subjected to more just to get it apart. There was nothing wrong with the original hub/bearing set up as verified by many cars running on their original hubs. In many ways the bearings aren't an issue be they Koyo, Timken or RHP it's the stub axle - (you are unlikely to do enough miles to wear out the bearing) Back in the day these hubs were used on the Stags and 2000s too - the only ones that managed to wear out their bearings in the usual life of the car were the estates when used for lugging heavy loads and long distances. Hi Rich, As Andy and Roger says the bearings are unlikely to kill you and your dearest This is Unfortunately the large forces required to spit the taper and remove the hub for rebuilding with your new bearings often damages the hub causing buckling or causes damage to the 50 year old stub axle which, when you put it back together causes this These pictures are of a Stag hub (which uses the same trailing arm and hubs as the IRS TR), these hubs had been bought as a reconditioned pair and looked mint, when 1 broke the owner continued to use the other, it also broke, the combined life of both was 18 months. Don't buy used or reconditioned hubs, nobody can tell what damage has been done when being subjected to 20 tons on a press and often heat to try and remove the hub. During their lives when they were fitted with replacement bearings and worked on by the large Triumph or Leyland service outlets the mechanics had flares sticking out of their overalls and hummed Beatles songs. The mechanics were young and so were the hubs, they stood the abuse required but like many of us the hubs and stub axles are now venerable and don't like bending forces, fit new hubs. Mick Richards Edited July 10, 2018 by Motorsport Mickey Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AarhusTr6 Posted July 11, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2018 Hi all All very interesting. So can I buy the hub and stub axle part separate as I already have a new Timken bearing kit? Appreciate the tolerances towards my naivety! Rich Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jogger321 Posted July 11, 2018 Report Share Posted July 11, 2018 Are Moss still doing exchange rear hubs? Can't see them on their site.... Bought one last year on the recommendation of somebody on here and touch wood all good after 1000 miles. I'm assuming a new stub axle fitted as part of the reconditioning? I heard so many stories or folk wrecking hubs that they had to be junked because they didnt have the proper press that despite my motto of trying to do everything myself I decided to go the recon route.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted July 11, 2018 Report Share Posted July 11, 2018 (edited) Hi all All very interesting. So can I buy the hub and stub axle part separate as I already have a new Timken bearing kit? Appreciate the tolerances towards my naivety! Rich Hi Rich, you shouldn't need a new hub unless yours is damaged. The shafts are normally available but on back order at present https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr5-6/clutch-transmission-drivetrain/drive-shafts-propshafts/propshaft-drive-shafts-tr5-6.html Roger Edited July 11, 2018 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted July 11, 2018 Report Share Posted July 11, 2018 Are Moss still doing exchange rear hubs? Can't see them on their site.... Bought one last year on the recommendation of somebody on here and touch wood all good after 1000 miles. I'm assuming a new stub axle fitted as part of the reconditioning? I heard so many stories or folk wrecking hubs that they had to be junked because they didnt have the proper press that despite my motto of trying to do everything myself I decided to go the recon route.... Hi Adrian, I wouldn;t assume it has a new stub axle. What did you pay for it. The new hubs are £250 and the axle alone is £100 +. I'm not sure if Moss will be doing refub'd hubs again. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted July 11, 2018 Report Share Posted July 11, 2018 (edited) Hi all All very interesting. So can I buy the hub and stub axle part separate as I already have a new Timken bearing kit? Appreciate the tolerances towards my naivety! Rich Hi Rich, Don't worry about naivety we all were ...once. If I were you I would buy 2 NEW rear hubs complete built up ready to fit your choice of driveshafts to, if the driveshafts break the results are unlikely to be dangerous, you can decide either your standard original driveshafts are ok ( that's cheap) or replace with the uprated prop shafts or even CV driveshafts. The critical thing is to get NEW hubs complete with all new parts. I should advertise your nice new bearings through e bay or other sources, you should get near enough what you paid for them.. Mick Richards Edited July 11, 2018 by Motorsport Mickey Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PaulAnderson Posted September 13, 2019 Report Share Posted September 13, 2019 I read on one of the numerous posts on IRS hubs that current reproduction ( not refurbished) ones from Moss Europe we’re the best source. Is that still correct as I need one? Paul Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted September 13, 2019 Report Share Posted September 13, 2019 Hi Paul, I have Moss hubs on my 4A and they have worked well for the past 3 summers (30.000+miles). Bastuck also supply new hubs but I have no info on them. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Moltu Posted September 13, 2019 Report Share Posted September 13, 2019 There is nothing wrong with the standard hub. However original hubs are 50 years old and the safety critical item is the stub axle so so long as you rebuild it with a new stub axle you should be fine . I would not risk my neck on a reconditioned hub that has retained the original stub axle. Similarly I've heard no bad reports on the new ones available and to be honest the hub is a substantial item so should have a relatively easy time in a TR application compared to the saloons and estates and it wasn't considered a weak link back in the day. Is it cost effective to rebuild a hub with a new stub axle or a brand new hub is a different question as the cost of new hubs is nearly the same as new CV jointed driveshaft and hub? That's another question. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted September 13, 2019 Report Share Posted September 13, 2019 (edited) Hi Andy, there have been CV shaft failure. When more and more are converted we may well get far more failure especially when the miles are piled on. Roger Edited September 13, 2019 by RogerH typo Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted September 13, 2019 Report Share Posted September 13, 2019 Hi Roger, Not to be underestimated the damage caused to the CV shafts by unrestrained trailing arm dropping. Same circumstances reported in the Stag forum where the shock absorbers have been removed, and the trailing arm allowed to drop fully. The gubbins inside the CV shafts become unrestrained and havoc ensues when the car is driven damaging the CV shafts. On TRs I strongly believe if the ORIGINAL lever arm shock absorber is left fitted it restrains the trailing arm droop ( that’s what the CV driveshafts were designed with). Whereas conversion to modern telescopic shock absorbers with a greater range will allow the trailing arm to overextend it’s droop and damaging the CV joints. Check out the Goodparts driveshafts, they are VERY picky ensuring controlled driveshaft length both for being equal and in droop. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted September 13, 2019 Report Share Posted September 13, 2019 Looking at the Goodparts shafts in comparison with the CDD ones the Goodparts look to be a completely different design and certainly more substantial. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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