Graeme Cole Posted March 23, 2018 Report Share Posted March 23, 2018 Just about to replace my dashboard with a lovely burr elm one and cappings purchased at the Stonleigh show. How easy is it and are there any tips anyone can give me? I am considering changing the bulbs to LED to properly illuminate the instruments. Has anyone any experience of these bulbs and what is their longevity? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graham Posted March 23, 2018 Report Share Posted March 23, 2018 A few thoughts, sorry if I'm stating the obvious; Disconnect the battery ! Dash facia removal its self is fairly straightforward if upgrading to led lamps be careful when fitting them that you have sufficient space between the end of the lamp and the plastic lamp shroud fitted inside the gauge. I got a bit enthusiastic with the ones for the tacho broke one off and only found out when it was all back together and the tacho jammed at 2000 rpm. You will also need to change the rheostat if you want to retain the dimmer function. When fitting the cubby box stay be VERY careful that the screws don't burst the lacquer on the front of the dash, the original screws are different lengths and if you use a long one when you need a short one, then you'll have a problem. Take time to get the shut on the glovebox lid correct. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul Hogan Posted March 23, 2018 Report Share Posted March 23, 2018 Removing the dash board is a tad more difficult than Graham suggests. For the most part you will be working upside down which is never easy in a TR. Having done a number of these my advise is to start with the speed and tacho removal first as that allows a little more light in behind the dash. Remember to undo the speedo trip first from its locating bracket before taking the speedo out. Also, use some masking tape to mark on which bulb/wire goes where. It will save you a lot of time when you come to put it back together again. Graham is spot on though about the cubby box lid. Take care here otherwise you will spoil your nice new dash board. Unless you want complete originality I would get rid of the Rheostat and replace it with a cigar lighter type charging / USB socket. Its far more useful in today's world and the rheostat only turns already very dim lights off! incidentally, the screws you can see in the facia are only secondary to the brackets on the instruments and air vents in holding the dash in place. Best of luck. hoges. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted March 23, 2018 Report Share Posted March 23, 2018 Couple of points from me: Be sure to check the sealing washer on the oil pressure gauge doent fall out , its a big mess when it does! Do install an led dimmer if you go for leds, i found the speedo and tacho too bright at night with the undimmed leds Do also replace the green indicator telltale with a ‘special’ led one, much brighter Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graham Posted March 24, 2018 Report Share Posted March 24, 2018 Removing the dash board is a tad more difficult than Graham suggests. For the most part you will be working upside down which is never easy in a TR. Having done a number of these my advise is to start with the speed and tacho removal first as that allows a little more light in behind the dash. Remember to undo the speedo trip first from its locating bracket before taking the speedo out. Also, use some masking tape to mark on which bulb/wire goes where. It will save you a lot of time when you come to put it back together again. Graham is spot on though about the cubby box lid. Take care here otherwise you will spoil your nice new dash board. Unless you want complete originality I would get rid of the Rheostat and replace it with a cigar lighter type charging / USB socket. Its far more useful in today's world and the rheostat only turns already very dim lights off! incidentally, the screws you can see in the facia are only secondary to the brackets on the instruments and air vents in holding the dash in place. Best of luck. hoges. Hoges I guess it all hinges on your description of 'difficult' but when I change a dash facia my procedure would be. Disconnect battery Remove radio console then whilst sitting astride the transmission tunnel ( take the handbrake off! ) one cheek on each seat remove the lower to gauges by 'feel' from beneath then you can use the 2 holes you have in the dash to have a peek at what needs disconnecting next from the 2 upper gauges then I remove tach and use that hole to access some of the connectors on the back of the speedo. Glove box lid stay next ...don't mix the screws up Remove facia screws then from memory it should pull away from the steel dash backing Just my way of doing it and yes the radio console is more hassle to remove but a professional classic car mechanic told me one of the arts of car repair is knowing when its quicker to remove more components to gain access then phaff about working round them ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul Hogan Posted March 24, 2018 Report Share Posted March 24, 2018 Yes I completely agree with what you say Graham. - apart from a cheek on each seat of course! hoges. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mattyb Posted March 24, 2018 Report Share Posted March 24, 2018 (edited) Oil Pressure Gauge Leather Washer Seal Triumph TR2 TR3 E BAY NUMBER 141193002265 avoids ruining your carpets with leaking oil ! and don't forget to report all the fraudulent listings whilst your on ebay .......... Edited March 24, 2018 by mattyb Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graeme Cole Posted March 24, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2018 So am I right in assuming that the screws on the front of the dash do not release the wooden dash until all the c clamps are removed from all the 6 instruments by accessing from under the dash. This sounds really quite complicated, would one have to do this every time a bulb blew in one of the top instruments? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C Posted March 24, 2018 Report Share Posted March 24, 2018 The c clamps do not clamp to the wooden dashboard, they clamp on to a steel bulkhead behind the wooden dashboard. The instruments have to be removed to get the dashboard out. Most bulbs can be replaced with the instruments in place, I remove the fuel and oil pressure gauges to replace the bulbs giving the Lucas sockets a clean at the same time. The TR6 instruments are a good argument for long life bulbs and having a technically inclined friend with small hands. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
graeme Posted March 25, 2018 Report Share Posted March 25, 2018 The c clamps do not clamp to the wooden dashboard, they clamp on to a steel bulkhead behind the wooden dashboard. The instruments have to be removed to get the dashboard out. That is true for the large instruments but the small gauges clamp to the wooden dash and can be removed with the dash. Cheers Graeme Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pinky Posted March 25, 2018 Report Share Posted March 25, 2018 hi gramme, you shouldn't find a problem with this job all the ones I have fitted or had dealings with, the air balls were a problem the new dash won't fit over them, the left and right air ball, you need to slightly file the holes to allow the dash board to sit flat, push the file one way, as the file could pull the lamination of, time to think about other mods clock, were the dimmer switch is change amp meter to volt meter re spray the dial bessels, pink Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GeoffreyS Posted July 19, 2020 Report Share Posted July 19, 2020 On 3/23/2018 at 8:11 AM, Graeme Cole said: Just about to replace my dashboard with a lovely burr elm one and cappings purchased at the Stonleigh show. How easy is it and are there any tips anyone can give me? I am considering changing the bulbs to LED to properly illuminate the instruments. Has anyone any experience of these bulbs and what is their longevity? Hello Graeme, I trust the installation went well. They are beautiful pieces of wood. Do you remember from whom you purchased them, please? Thank you. Regards, Geoffrey Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rcreweread Posted July 19, 2020 Report Share Posted July 19, 2020 Geoffrey - it could have been me as I was there and had some of these for sale - have PMed you as I can still get them at good discounts if you are interested Cheers Rich Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Yarm 783 Posted July 19, 2020 Report Share Posted July 19, 2020 Graeme, I have just finished all of this, new dash and LEDs all around. Just take your time and carefully tape and mark each wire. Check the loom behind for condition, mine was knackered and I ended up fitting a new front loom. The LEDs make a big difference, I actually did short the dimmer, I don’t find them too bright unlike one of the other guys. Remove the steering wheel, take the two big dials come out sand then the dash will unscrew and lift forward. I’ve attached some shots during and after the work. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tr6tuga Posted July 20, 2020 Report Share Posted July 20, 2020 Just another hint to had, the turn signal lever and lights lever can and do fall appart , thei are brittle, if there ais some figorous dash board handling, ask me how i found Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jim millar Posted August 5, 2021 Report Share Posted August 5, 2021 Hi Graeme can you remember who you bought your dash of arts from I know it's been a while thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harrytr5 Posted August 6, 2021 Report Share Posted August 6, 2021 Classic Dash (or Classical Dash) just outside High Wycombe do some lovely dashes, top of doors and switch plinth and you can choose your veneer if you go there Ian Bond (owner) Regards Harry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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