Agrace Posted February 25, 2018 Report Share Posted February 25, 2018 Ok, so the head is off and the radiator is out. I want to remove the original fan and replace it with a Revotec setup. The fan came off easily as did the 6 bolts holding the fan mount to the pulley/crank. My question, how do I get the very big bolt off the front of the pulley mount? I don't have the right size socket to begin with, so need to buy one. My set goes up to 1 inch. The engine turns freely, so impossible to loosen the bolt. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks all Andrew Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don H. Posted February 25, 2018 Report Share Posted February 25, 2018 (edited) I just took that bolt off my TR3B. DeWalt DCF899H 20V impact driver and 1 1/8-inch impact socket -- two seconds. Gearbox in reverse to maximize resistance to engine turnover. Edited February 25, 2018 by Don H. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR 2100 Posted February 25, 2018 Report Share Posted February 25, 2018 Don, Yeah, but how many people have an impact driver? Ian - put the car in 1st/reverse gear, try to find the point of maximum resistance (although the effect of inertia should be enough), then a hammer impact on the socket extension arm. Better still if you have the sump removed is to chock the crank to prevent it from moving. If you check the manual, you will find it's a fairly high torque. AlanR Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted February 25, 2018 Report Share Posted February 25, 2018 Or put a socket & lever on the starter dog, turn engine over in normal direction till the lever is solidly resting on the chassis. operate the starter motor. that should loosen it. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Agrace Posted February 25, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2018 Forgot to mention, the car is up on stands. Wheels moving freely. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR 2100 Posted February 25, 2018 Report Share Posted February 25, 2018 Or put a socket & lever on the starter dog, turn engine over in normal direction till the lever is solidly resting on the chassis. operate the starter motor. that should loosen it. Bob ^^^ Yes AlanR Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted February 25, 2018 Report Share Posted February 25, 2018 Forgot to mention, the car is up on stands. Wheels moving freely. Is the handbrake working. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Agrace Posted February 25, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2018 Ah, good point Roger. Will have to invest in the right socket and try with handbrake on. Thanks all for the great suggestions. Will let you know how it goes. Regards Andrew Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bob-menhennett Posted February 25, 2018 Report Share Posted February 25, 2018 Andrew Another trick you might like to try is boiling water , poured very slowly over the reluctant nut, take extra care with the splashing as it's on stands. Newspaper spread around is normally sufficient. The heat expands the metal. Sometimes it needs " another go " sometimes it works first time. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted February 25, 2018 Report Share Posted February 25, 2018 Impact driver - I bought a 240v LIDL special 3 years ago, cost me all of £29.95 and that included several metric sockets. It's done some serious work since then, works like a charm every time - highly recommended. At the risk of stating the obvious . . . . . DO NOT use ordinary sockets with an impact driver, they can shatter all too easily and the shards carve straight through bodywork en route to burying themselves in the garage wall. Or into the operator. A modest set of decent brand AF impact sockets will cost £25-30 if you shop around - but I'd avoid the cheap and cheerful, unnecessary risk. Cheers Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don H. Posted February 25, 2018 Report Share Posted February 25, 2018 ...Yeah, but how many people have an impact driver?... Another plus point then, Alan -- a worthwhile excuse to buy a new tool! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted February 25, 2018 Report Share Posted February 25, 2018 Another plus point then, Alan -- a worthwhile excuse to buy a new tool! I'm sure I spotted one at Lidl last Sunday. Maybe a trip back there tomorrow. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mike3md Posted February 25, 2018 Report Share Posted February 25, 2018 If you have a large pipe wrench (Stillsons), grip the nose piece and then have a go at the bolt. Has worked for me a couple of times. Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
smyllie Posted February 25, 2018 Report Share Posted February 25, 2018 Andrew, I also had a really good experience using an impact driver when I was removing the front pulley. I had tried all sorts other ideas but the impact driver worked a treat. I have to say I am really pleased with the Revotec fan/kit. I also invested in submarine pipe (from the bottom hose) with the adapter for a thermostat. Looks nice and neat. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR4TUNE Posted February 25, 2018 Report Share Posted February 25, 2018 May be jumping the gun here a little.....I can see how the impact driver would work to remove the nut (and have had to used one to remove the fan blade off alternators before) but how will Andrew torque up the said nut when he comes to put it back together? John S Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peter clarke Posted February 26, 2018 Report Share Posted February 26, 2018 Feed the end of a piece of rope into number 1 spark plug hole at bottom of its power stroke and then as you turn engine backwards rope prevents piston getting back to TDC and you can undo the bolt. Turn engine i/2 rev forward again and you can pull rope back out. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peter clarke Posted February 26, 2018 Report Share Posted February 26, 2018 Just realized that you said the head was off. You could still put a block of wood on top of piston and hold it down with a metal bar across a pair of head studs. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted February 26, 2018 Report Share Posted February 26, 2018 If head is off are you bothered if the liners move ? if so don't turn the engine over without clamping the liners down first. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Agrace Posted March 5, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2018 Worked like a charm with handbrake on. A good tug on a powerbar with 1 1/8th socket and off it came. Thanks for the suggestions. Regards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted March 5, 2018 Report Share Posted March 5, 2018 "If you check the manual, you will find it's a fairly high torque". Alan R Not in any manual I've got (several) Alan. However the Stag specifies 120 lb ft so that's what my TR gets as well. "don't turn the engine over without clamping the liners down first." Bob. I sort of went don't...when I was reading it but too late Bob, Andrew has already said the engine turns over like a good in" . So the liners are likely disturbed unless he's taken note of previous postings saying to retain them, although they look solid they only need to flex to break the water seal. Andrew, When you're at this stage with the head off if you turned over the engine the liners have probably shifted and require reseating on the seals at their bottom. If you rebuild the engine without doing this it will likely leak water into the sump, so then pulling the liners if you suspect they've shifted is just a no brainer, rework the Figure of 8 seals and carry on rebuilding. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don H. Posted March 6, 2018 Report Share Posted March 6, 2018 "If you check the manual, you will find it's a fairly high torque".Alan RNot in any manual I've got (several) Alan. However the Stag specifies 120 lb ft so that's what my TR gets as well. I'll be putting mine back together when I get a chance, Mick, and I haven't found a torque spec either. Your logic for setting a target seems reasonable. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR 2100 Posted March 6, 2018 Report Share Posted March 6, 2018 "If you check the manual, you will find it's a fairly high torque". Alan R Not in any manual I've got (several) Alan. However the Stag specifies 120 lb ft so that's what my TR gets as well. Mick Richards Mick, I think my recollection of a high torque figure goes way back to my TR3 days, so maybe it's tucked away in one of my TR3 manuals. Have to do some checking, but my TR3 manuals are not to hand. The Stag torque of 120 lb ft is the sort of torque I had in mind. Must be the largest diameter 'bolt' on the car. AlanR Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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