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  • Location
    The Lakes
  • Cars Owned:
    TR4 1962 (rebuilt on new chassis in 2010ish)
    Ford escort Mk2
    MG Midget 1293 RWA 1972 (weber, sccr, LSD, etc)

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  1. Never seen one in the flesh but had a poster of that model on the wall of my student digs in sunny Salford in the early 70s. Tis a credit to PF, Redtom.
  2. Like the other Cumbrian John I do most of my own basic servicing on the TR (and Escort and MG) but have not yet altered or checked the timing on the TR.Electronic ignition and running well just now so will leave it alone. Only last night I had a check on the mixtures with the aid of an air flow meter and spark tester (Gunson colourtune, was going to say other types are available but not sure if there is an alternative?).Having previously adjusted everything by hand and ear I was pleased to see that the air flows from each carb were very close and that the sparks burned blue under fast revs, although mostly yellow on tickover. A note of caution for the hamfisted....the colourtune plug is quite small and it is not easy to thread it and its copper ring which quite loose.I took the plug out with a suitable socket but as it didnt have a rubber liner the bloody thing fell out as I removed the socket. Of course it plummeted earthwards clattering various metallic protrusions on its way down, eventually coming to rest behind the oil filter.I managed to extract it with a magnetic extension rod (thanks Aldi...other supermarkets are available etc).As expected it had suffered damage in the form of the outer ceramic insulator had broken but the glass window remained intact. I was not hopeful but tried it on another cylinder to test the second H6 setup and it worked! This time I laid some blue paper roll under the spark plug hole to catch it when it was removed, this worked a treat but then discovered that it was very hot, rapid juggling did not result in further damage. John S PS If you dont have a posh mechanics foam mat I can recommend a big sheet of cardboard for laying on and contemplating your handywork....it will also provide a softish landing for errent Colourtune plugs.
  3. If you click on my avatar picture thingy and enlarge the pic you will see bullet mirrors on my TR4....I think that they look better than the sticky out square ones on stalks....IMHO.
  4. Although not quite as cheap as a plastic milk bottle, a plastic cycling drink bottle works very well and its wire carrier makes mounting it a simple task.Just make sure that it can breath and is mounted as high as possible in the engine bay otherwise it will tend to fill up.
  5. Hello Russell, Hope you enjoy your TR4 ownership. Guess you are of the Pennington/Duff-Pennington of Muncaster Castle ilk......did you have a pint in the Pennington arms in Ravenglass? Good luck with the restoration. Another Cumbrian TR owner John
  6. TR4TUNE

    paint choice

    Hi Dave, my car is powder blue after being through a couple of other colours in its lifetime but started life in 62 as a powder blue. The paint was from Autocolours Brighton code no 8013...Powder Blue. John S
  7. Having thought about selling the TR we have changed our minds and just completed a wonderful 400 mile run through the Northumberland back roads.Will also rejoin the register if it has lapsed.Pics of Ross castle road near Chillingham and 9 mile forest drive to Kielder Castle....this is as it says on the tin a forest road ie on the loose stuff but in good nick.Also had an Italia on the run and met up with a Peerless owner in Alnwick.
  8. Andy, On a bit of a noise theme today..... I have been troubled with scratching noises and each time it was due to a pebble stuck behing the front disc brake back plate. Sometimes resolved by reversing other times by insertion of a small screw driver to loose the pebble. The noise sounds much worse than a pebble...more like a whell bearing at point of collapse! Hope it is a simple answer. John
  9. Richard, I have a stainless extractor on TR4 and had a strange tinkling noise (also someone else on here had the same issue) which actually came from within the exhaust rather than the engine.Listen carefully with a length of tube to determine exact location.The noise was like having a small shillie/pebble rattling in the base of the downpipes.The noise was there only when the engine was warming up and eventually went altogether with no further intervention. John
  10. Ian, Due to living up north, with its frequent wet salty roads, my car also sits unused for a few weeks at a time and I too use a battery cutoff switch. Usually it fires after a few turns and some choke....brass top H6 SUs and mechanical pump. On the odd occasion when it has not fired I have resorted to using one of the small high energy jump starters (make is Energiser) which work very well. They will fit in a glove compartment or small tool bag, cost around £50 from Screwfix or Aldi etc and give about 6 goes at getting a car started. Only slight downside is that you have to charge them , or at least the one I have, via your computer. If you do not have one they make a good Xmas present from a wife , partner, etc. What is the max length of time that an engine should sit for before you remove the spark plugs to turn it over? John S
  11. Checked new carb cork rings for a good seal....still a bit wet underneath so took it for a run and checked again after a few miles, still wet. Did a few more miles but with vigour to get the needle moving up and down a bit....result, dry. Did a few more miles to park up and still dry...hurrah. So off to Bo'ness hillcimb early on Saturday with no more petrol fumes in the cab. John S
  12. Will be there on the Saturday now the carb fuel leak is sorted (I think). I will call in to the pits to say hello and wish you all luck. Quite fancy a go but on a bangs per buck basis I'll stick to classic/targas for now. I have been before and it is a good event with plenty to watch on the track and in the show field...the organisers are a friendly helpful bunch. Weather looks fine for both days so worth a trip up to Bo'ness. John S
  13. Thanks Richard, the kit from Burlen is quite comprehensive.....covers all of the wee bits that may get lost.There is a note in with the cork gaskets to let them soak in oil for 24hrs.The slightly odd thing is that the smaller cork seals come already soaked in oil but the large one that caused my problem does not.Burlen say that folks did not soak the little ones, resulting in poor seals,so they do it for them. Just got to put it back together tomorrow using my ambidiborous skills. Never taken one apart before and am a bit in awe of the pure simplicity of how it works.....I have a Weber on a car from the dark side and have changed jets etc but have no real understanding of how it all works! Anon, John
  14. Roger wins the prize.....the cork gasket was missing a bit, probably not so bad when compressed.The gasket sets from Burlen/SU are only a tenner or so,already on the way.Not too bad removing in situ but there are a lot of small parts to lose/drop.Worth getting the gasket set and replacing all of the seals.....after soaking in petrol overnight. Noticed that the dash pot dropped quite quickly....only about 1 sec? Thanks for advice, John
  15. Thanks Roger, I have had a look at the SU web site for repair/refurb kits but they are quite expensive,particularly if it is just one seal that has gone. Not much in any of my manuals.....can 'it' be replaced in situ? John
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