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  • Location
    The Lakes
  • Cars Owned:
    TR4 1962 (rebuilt on new chassis in 2010ish)
    Ford escort Mk2
    MG Midget 1293 RWA 1972 (weber, sccr, LSD, etc)

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  1. Having thought about selling the TR we have changed our minds and just completed a wonderful 400 mile run through the Northumberland back roads.Will also rejoin the register if it has lapsed.Pics of Ross castle road near Chillingham and 9 mile forest drive to Kielder Castle....this is as it says on the tin a forest road ie on the loose stuff but in good nick.Also had an Italia on the run and met up with a Peerless owner in Alnwick.
  2. Andy, On a bit of a noise theme today..... I have been troubled with scratching noises and each time it was due to a pebble stuck behing the front disc brake back plate. Sometimes resolved by reversing other times by insertion of a small screw driver to loose the pebble. The noise sounds much worse than a pebble...more like a whell bearing at point of collapse! Hope it is a simple answer. John
  3. Richard, I have a stainless extractor on TR4 and had a strange tinkling noise (also someone else on here had the same issue) which actually came from within the exhaust rather than the engine.Listen carefully with a length of tube to determine exact location.The noise was like having a small shillie/pebble rattling in the base of the downpipes.The noise was there only when the engine was warming up and eventually went altogether with no further intervention. John
  4. Ian, Due to living up north, with its frequent wet salty roads, my car also sits unused for a few weeks at a time and I too use a battery cutoff switch. Usually it fires after a few turns and some choke....brass top H6 SUs and mechanical pump. On the odd occasion when it has not fired I have resorted to using one of the small high energy jump starters (make is Energiser) which work very well. They will fit in a glove compartment or small tool bag, cost around £50 from Screwfix or Aldi etc and give about 6 goes at getting a car started. Only slight downside is that you have to charge them , or at least the one I have, via your computer. If you do not have one they make a good Xmas present from a wife , partner, etc. What is the max length of time that an engine should sit for before you remove the spark plugs to turn it over? John S
  5. Misterjayatkins is back again advertising for trs. He is called James Atkins but his email is as above. Can moderators contact him to see what his game is? Serves me right for thinking of selling the TR! John
  6. Checked new carb cork rings for a good seal....still a bit wet underneath so took it for a run and checked again after a few miles, still wet. Did a few more miles but with vigour to get the needle moving up and down a bit....result, dry. Did a few more miles to park up and still dry...hurrah. So off to Bo'ness hillcimb early on Saturday with no more petrol fumes in the cab. John S
  7. Will be there on the Saturday now the carb fuel leak is sorted (I think). I will call in to the pits to say hello and wish you all luck. Quite fancy a go but on a bangs per buck basis I'll stick to classic/targas for now. I have been before and it is a good event with plenty to watch on the track and in the show field...the organisers are a friendly helpful bunch. Weather looks fine for both days so worth a trip up to Bo'ness. John S
  8. Thanks Richard, the kit from Burlen is quite comprehensive.....covers all of the wee bits that may get lost.There is a note in with the cork gaskets to let them soak in oil for 24hrs.The slightly odd thing is that the smaller cork seals come already soaked in oil but the large one that caused my problem does not.Burlen say that folks did not soak the little ones, resulting in poor seals,so they do it for them. Just got to put it back together tomorrow using my ambidiborous skills. Never taken one apart before and am a bit in awe of the pure simplicity of how it works.....I have a Weber on a car from the dark side and have changed jets etc but have no real understanding of how it all works! Anon, John
  9. Roger wins the prize.....the cork gasket was missing a bit, probably not so bad when compressed.The gasket sets from Burlen/SU are only a tenner or so,already on the way.Not too bad removing in situ but there are a lot of small parts to lose/drop.Worth getting the gasket set and replacing all of the seals.....after soaking in petrol overnight. Noticed that the dash pot dropped quite quickly....only about 1 sec? Thanks for advice, John
  10. Thanks Roger, I have had a look at the SU web site for repair/refurb kits but they are quite expensive,particularly if it is just one seal that has gone. Not much in any of my manuals.....can 'it' be replaced in situ? John
  11. Had a run on Sat with local motor club, covered around 150 miles and noticed slight fuel smell....mostly when backing off throttle. Didn't worry too much and took it to show on Sunday.When fitting larger steering lock stops today noticed petrol smell once more and tracked it back to the bottom of the carb nearest to the bulkhead. These are H6 SUs. Is there a likely suspect eg bolt /gaskets joining float to carb body or is it more likely to be in the jet area? Is there any clever way to determine source of leak without taking it all apart? Was thinking of drying off and using a mirror..... Any advice welcomed. Thanks, John
  12. Keith, I recently had the same problem after changing a remote bleed pipe on a slave cylinder.Spent hours trying to bleed the system with no joy.Finally enlisted help of a 'proper' mechanic who ,as Tom suggested, cracked the outlet of the master and applied positive pressure via the master cap.A firm pedal was there instantly.Air had travelled upwards into the master and no amount of bleeding the slave would release it. Errrr...... slight confession it was on a midget.Hope this helps. John
  13. John, sorry cannot help on the specific parts....for Rex's? But some good news for you and fellow Cumbria TRers is that Eurpcarparts has a summer deal on offering 35% off.....so fill your boots with spark plugs, filters, starters etc. Gann canny, John S
  14. Hello John, mine has been done for some time but the end bits do tend to stick up a little. Current advice is to tape up the surrounding paintwork, put epoxy resin under the trim, remove excess and tape over the trim to hold in place overnight. Its on my jobs list. Grand weather up here for the last 6 weeks. Take care, John S
  15. I know this topic has been discussed at length but just thought I would share a practical example of why you should carry on with MOTTING...... My car is a TR4 in pretty good nick, sits in a dry warm garage over winter.Been out in early spring for a two day 400 mile trip with no problems, so feeling confident for the MOT test......it failed on low efficiency rear brake. The cylinder was sticking and actually stuck on when the pedal was severely stood on. The latter caused the drum to get quite warm taking it to be fixed. Having set fire to a midget (car not PORG) due to a sticking rear brake I am perhaps understandably a bit nervous of sticking brakes. I had not noticed that the braking was worse than normal and just put it down to older technology. Without being tested properly this would not have come to light. I have since fitted a new rear cylinder, following advice from the archives, and believe me it makes quite a difference to the braking efficiency as it is now very easy to lock it up in a controlled manner (no servo). So I will continue to have my classics MOTTED. John
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