Jump to content


TR Register Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About smyllie

  • Birthday February 16

Profile Information

  • Location
    Biggin Hill, Kent

Recent Profile Visitors

81 profile views
  1. Hi Ian, I have not fitted a heat shield, I decided to ceramic coat the exhaust manifold to help. Pricey but work really well.
  2. Hi All, thanks for the additional advice. I have not had a lot of garage time over the last couple of weeks. Thanks for the compliments on the car, yes the colour is conifer green which was the original colour. After such a long project it is nice to get some feedback, thank you. I think you are right and the timing is a red herring. I checked the dashpots and both were slightly low, so topped up and no improvement. I then investigated the whistle which was coming from the inlet on the front carb. I removed the air filters and it is quite pronounced. So I switched the air valve/diaphragmm assembly between the two carbs and the whistle moved to the rear carb. So I am guessing that it can only be the diaphragm, the seal around the vacuum chamber or the attachment to the air valve. The diaphragm was new with a rebuild kit but I have ordered a new one anyway. I cannot think of any other potential source of the whistle but any alternative suggestions gratefully received. Whilst looking at the air valve assemblies and needle/jet alignment i noticed a very odd thing that I feel sure is not helping. The needles came with the car which had been sitting in a field since 1978. I was examining them and noticed that someone in the past has filed away one edge along the entire length of both needles. So if I cut one in half and look at the cross section it would be 'D' shaped. This was obviously intentional at the time as both needles have been modified (roughly the same) and on the same side. I have ordered two new standard needles and will let you know how i get on. Has anyone seen or heard of this before?
  3. Thanks for the super quick responses gents. So on my list is check dashpots, check both carbs are sliding freely, retard ignition until it stops pinking. Is there a neat trick to checking that the vacuum pipe is sucking? and finally do you have any thoughts on which curve to use for safety. Cheers Bob
  4. Well after a 6 year full restoration i have taken my 63 TR 4 out on the public road for the very first time. I also decided to take it for a voluntary MOT for my own piece of mind. Overall the driving experience was good, however I am struggling with the ignition timing. This is my first such project and I am not experienced in the art of interpreting the engines performance and determining how to alter the timing. The engine has been fully rebuilt with an unleaded head conversion - everything is to standard specification. I have a 123 ignition which is set to map B. The static timing is set to 10 BTDC. When in neutral or with no load the engine starts perfectly and revs cleanly when the accelerator is pressed. However out on the road when accelerating it sounds dreadful almost as if its running on 3 cylinders and really struggles to make progress. At cruise it seems much happier. Yesterday I took it up a hill and it is pinking. I have also noticed a whistle from the carb (rebuilt CD175s) area but still yet to pinpoint the source. I have read the previous posts on intial setup with the 123 and have seen many different views on static setting and which curve to use. Does anyone have any comment on my current 10 BTDC and curve B. Any ideas on the rough running under load. I am leaning towards something related to the vacuum advance but would like to sound out you wiser readers before diving in.
  5. Hi Roger, yes that's the plan. I read your post but was not sure if you removed the engine because it was the only way to access it. So it sounds like I am about to remove the front engine ancillaries - in we go!! Any tips gratefully received.
  6. Gents thank you for the advice and tips, looks like this is worth having a go at. Just ordering new gaskets and will have a crack next weekend. I will update you with my progress.
  7. I used the revotec kit with laser cut brackets to fix the unit to the radiator. An easy installation and good quality barckets that looks great. I removed the mech fan, converted to thin belt and alternator at the same time. I did not fit the adjustable thermo switch and opted for a fixed switch and an adapted submarine pipe on the bottom hose. The wiring was easy, I am not an expert and just took my time when connecting the relay. Chuffed with the results.
  8. Final stages now of a complete restoration of my barn find US 63 TR4. When I first fired the rebuilt engine there was an oil leak from the rear and front of the engine. The rear was pressing so I removed the gearbox and discovered the that the engine builder had left the rear plug (a slot type) loose and with no thread sealant. They supplied me with a new plug and advice and all is well. I had been putting off the leak at the front and focused on other areas of the project. So today I got under the car, fired up the engine and watched the source of the oil leak from the front of the engine. It is seeping out from between the block and the engine plate. Almost certainly the front oil galley plug. So my question is:- Is it possible to remove the engine plate and gain access to the front oil galley plug without removing the engine. My car is in pristine condition and has fresh paint, if I can avoid removing the engine then I would like to explore this. It looks like it is possible but I would really appreciate some expert opinion before I take any action.
  9. I dithered on the same question with my rebuilt 63 TR4. I went for the original 123 (with preset curves). Easy install and starts/runs very nicely. No regrets at all.
  10. smyllie

    Fan Mount

    Andrew, I also had a really good experience using an impact driver when I was removing the front pulley. I had tried all sorts other ideas but the impact driver worked a treat. I have to say I am really pleased with the Revotec fan/kit. I also invested in submarine pipe (from the bottom hose) with the adapter for a thermostat. Looks nice and neat.
  11. Thanks Gents, the gearbox was pretty much empty so fairly certain that it is coming from the engine. There were no traces of oil on the clutch cover or the front face of the flywheel. Hopefully I will get time tomorrow to diagnose the source. Will keep you posted. Bob
  12. Thank you for the advice everyone. Peter, you could be right maybe it is the crank seal - as soon as I get the flywheel off hopefully all will become clearer. I am not certain that I would be able to see sufficiently behind the flywheel to determine where the leak originates while the engine is running. I will keep you posted, thank you again
  13. It was a big weekend, first time fire-up of my TR4 restoration in 37 years. It has taken me 3.5 years to get to this point. The good news is it ran fine, lots of blue smoke initially which cleared. The bad news is that there is an oil leak from the rear of the engine. I do not think it is the crank seal A) as this was upgraded to a lip from a scroll and it is dripping (only with oil pressure when running) from the near side of the bell housing. So my guess is that it may be the oil galley plug of the camshaft plug. The engine was built by a well known firm who I will contact on Monday, I am gutted. Anyway, reading other posts the only way to confirm the source is to heave the gearbox out which I have completed this morning. I have marked up and removed the clutch which brings me to the flywheel. 4 bolts have been removed but cannot pull the flywheel of the crankshaft. Is there a puller or a knack to removing this?
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.