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Thermostatic radiator blind


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Roger

Cant you use a long loop of string back to the drivers position. Like a traditional window venitian blind ??

 

Roger the photos are very helpful, improving my understanding of your project - Thank You.

 

A long bonnet pull cable would do it. Fail safe with a big spring?

 

Cheers

Peter W

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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Hi Folks,

today was fun :blink: . I was wiring the relays and solenoids in place.

I normally have no trouble with wiring, it all goes together like string and when you flip the switch it works.

Sadly not today. To make it worse I wired it up as if it was the final go at it.

The problem is wiring into other bespoke wiring and I had misunderstood what I had put in a could of years ago.

 

So when it gets silly you must stop and make sense of what you have, This was an hour well spent.

 

So with it all wired up did it work - No!!!!!, well sort of.

On battery volts alone the solenoid is not man enough to raise the blinds. I'm sure a couple of extra alternator volts will do the job.

In which case it works perfectly.

 

Tomorrow another solenoid will arrive to piggyback with the fitted one.

 

Sometime tomorrow I'll take the car out and see what happens :o

 

In testing the bibs and bobs I found that with the blinds shut the leccy fan significantly changed its tone suggesting that the air flow is restricted as it should be.

 

 

Roger

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Hi Folks,

final update. The blind is on the rad and not too untidy. The E46 blind is apprx 3/4" wider than the rad but it doesn't look too bad. :)

I had to use two solenoids int he end to give a positive closing against the return. :(

 

So now when I turn on the ignition the blinds close as the engine will be cold(ish).

Should slow or static traffic turn up the temp will rise. When the rad fan thermo-switch kicks in the fan spins up and the blind opens to allow air through.

Once the temp has reduce (either moving forward or effect of fan) the fan shuts down and the blinds close.

 

I have an over ride switch to open the blinds should there by constant warm/high atmospheric temps.

There is also an over ride switch to bring on the Rad fan and open the blinds.

 

The test runs have shown that it works as planned. B) However I think the thermo-switch in the rad/pump down pipe could be raised.

I think it is in the 80's at present. Low 90's may be better.

 

Would I recommend others doing the same - not really if your marriage is worth saving. :wacko: Sue has been very patient.

A piece of card would do the same thing - but that is simply cheap :P:P:P

 

Roger

Edited by RogerH
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So far so Good, but have you thought of fitting a Rad Cam?

 

Then Sue could monitor the system under arduous conditions, when looking for a good Pub to lunch in.

 

Also I hear, that If you have an I/Smart phone you could keep checking on it whilst having a pint, just for peace of mind of course.

 

You can't make it too complicated.

 

https://www.currys.co.uk/gbuk/cameras-and-camcorders/camcorders/dash-cams/nextbase-112-lite-dash-cam-black-grey-10154750-pdt.html

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I’m hoping for a large enough Christmas Present to provide a suitably large piece of cardboard, if not will have to draft in Roger ‘call me Heath’ Hogarth .....

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Well done roger ????????

 

About time you start work on the air con ready for the summer

 

H

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Also I hear, that If you have an I/Smart phone you could keep checking on it whilst having a pint, just for peace of mind of course.

 

 

You could also use the Hive app to control it from wherever you like, armchair ,bed or anywhere you like. :rolleyes:

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi Folks,

to bring this madness to an end.

 

Having done a good number of miles I have come to the conclusion that this rather good idea is actually quite naff.

Why ? i hear you cry

 

The new cam is possibly creating a little more heat.

With the blinds closed the engine heats up quickly but has trouble cooling down or staying stable.

I think part of the problem is that the in-coming air is so forceful that it holds the blinds closed against a fairly weak spring.

 

The heater never got any hotter. I think the engine thermo stat is doing its job.

However the rad must have over heated as the overflow bottle is full.

 

So, an interesting project and like a great deal of R&D it is one that will not see the light of day.

 

Now, where did I put the piece f cardboard.

 

Roger

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Sorry to read the system is not as desired, I got quite keen on the idea.

 

However.

As Charlie Croker is heard to say at the end of The Italian Job ....now listen lads I've got an idea.....

 

Could you fit a couple of the slats horizontally to the bottom of the front valance, so they extend into the airflow as an aerodynamic device when driving at over 50 - could you link their activation to the sat-nav velocity function? ...bit like a modern Alfa.

 

Peter W

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HA! so you've got a hot engine then have you, welcome to the fold! I went out in mine the other day with a new 75* thermo fitted to see how it performed. It got up to temp in 1.4 miles (outside temp on the day +3) and for once behaved itself

quite well but I would hope it would being blasted with +3 air!

 

Do you think the heat difference is to do with a change in your timing as well as better performance on No 1?

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Hi Nigel,

I'm sure the new cam must produce more heat - the inlet valve is open longer so more petrol goes in = more flames.

 

When fitted to the BMW the blinds were operated by a pneumatic system form the intake manifold.

This probably had a more powerful affect to operate the blinds.

My version had a simple spring that worked well enough static but I'm sure the incoming airflow may have been too much for it.

 

If the spring was stronger then I would need some mighty solenoids to overcome it.

 

Never to fear; the summer will be hear soon so cooling is the main point. I'll think about the blind next autumn.

 

Roger

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Hi Folks,

to bring this madness to an end.

 

Having done a good number of miles I have come to the conclusion that this rather good idea is actually quite naff.

Why ? i hear you cry

 

The new cam is possibly creating a little more heat.

With the blinds closed the engine heats up quickly but has trouble cooling down or staying stable.

I think part of the problem is that the in-coming air is so forceful that it holds the blinds closed against a fairly weak spring.

 

The heater never got any hotter. I think the engine thermo stat is doing its job.

However the rad must have over heated as the overflow bottle is full.

 

So, an interesting project and like a great deal of R&D it is one that will not see the light of day.

 

Now, where did I put the piece f cardboard.

 

Roger

Is your heater matrix clogged Roger?

 

Pete

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My version had a simple spring that worked well enough static but I'm sure the incoming airflow may have been too much for it.

 

 

Roger

Hi Roger,

 

Could you develop an intake system to reduce the airflow, you know, similar to Concorde. :o:P

 

Cheers

Graeme

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Hi Graeme,

when I took the blind off today I noticed that the blinds (6 off) ae detachable.

So when I refit it next autumn (assuming I do refit it.) I will leave the bottom two off.

This will have a number effects -

a - it will allow additional cooling - so the engine will not get over hot before everything starts to work.

b - The incoming airflow will have less surface area to work on to hold it closed

c - I could fit an extra solenoid to pull the blinds open if need be. How many solenoids are too many?

 

Anyway, the cars are here to have fun with and that is what I'm doing.

 

Roger

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Options..

Consider a linear motor to cycle the thing open or closed. - Were these not considered in the initial adaption? https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xliear+motor.TRS0&_nkw=liear+motor&_sacat=0

OR

Break a TR7-8 and use the headlamp lift motor? Keeping unreliability on the car. - Discuss.

 

Cheers

Peter W

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