Don H. Posted November 20, 2017 Report Share Posted November 20, 2017 I'm considering converting from DOT3/glycol to DOT5/silicone brake fluid this winter. As part of that, I'd plan to replace all the rubber bits in master, slave, and wheel cylinders. Are any of the suppliers preferred over others? This is one of those areas where quality is quite possibly not equal among all the options... TIA. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted November 20, 2017 Report Share Posted November 20, 2017 Hi Don are you really sure? http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/49033-brake-fluid/?hl=%2Bsilicon+%2Bbrake+%2Bfluid Cheers Iain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted November 20, 2017 Report Share Posted November 20, 2017 Hi Don are you really sure? http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/49033-brake-fluid/?hl=%2Bsilicon+%2Bbrake+%2Bfluid Cheers Iain +1 not a good idea Don,most of the big names offer the choice but will not recommend Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 20, 2017 Report Share Posted November 20, 2017 are you sure; are you really really sure. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don H. Posted November 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2017 Hi Don are you really sure? http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/49033-brake-fluid/?hl=%2Bsilicon+%2Bbrake+%2Bfluid Cheers Iain No, I'm not sure at all, Iain and Neil.. I went with DOT3 originally and I like the idea of the fluid the system was designed for. There are two very different camps re: DOT5/silicone. My fluid is now about 8 years old, so probably worth considering to change. After some work at a very well respected TR shop a few years ago, my reservoir started spilling, and while I haven't damaged body paint yet, the reservoir itself looks kinda ratty. As I said, thinkin' 'bout it. But let's say I decide to stay with DOT3/glycol ether. The basic question of varying quality between rubber bits from all the suppliers is still valid. Are hydraulic rebuild kits any different in the TR ecosystem? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
monty Posted November 20, 2017 Report Share Posted November 20, 2017 Well I have had it in both my cars (over 10 years in one) with no downsides & no corroded paintwork! Cheers. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted November 20, 2017 Report Share Posted November 20, 2017 Don That on the cap is easy to sort,pipe lagging as Stan will tell you? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don H. Posted November 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2017 The reservoir seems to be corroding or building up some sort of deposit at the bottom where the hydraulic lines come it, too. I have a sheet of pressure-sensitive plastic film on the bodywork there to protect the paint, but this needs some attention before driving season begins. So the reservoir (my original) needs to come off over the winter for rehab. One of the things I'll install, irrespective of fluid type, is the Moss upgraded reservoir seal. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don H. Posted November 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2017 Well I have had it in both my cars (over 10 years in one) with no downsides & no corroded paintwork! Cheers. Excellent! Not everyone is so fortunate, monty. There are a ton of cars with brake fluid-damaged paintwork. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted November 20, 2017 Report Share Posted November 20, 2017 Don, I've used silicone for 20 years in the 6. No problems and no corroded or seized cylinders. It needed a new master cylinder last year, but I had re-fitted the m/cyl in 1995 after using it with glycol. So all new rubbers are best. Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
graeme Posted November 21, 2017 Report Share Posted November 21, 2017 Hi Don, I have had DOT 5 in my 4A for 17 years. I drained and stripped the system for inspection around 8 years ago. It was still like new. All my rubber came from Moss Europe and as long as new rubber is installed, I would recommend DOT5. Cheers Graeme Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted November 21, 2017 Report Share Posted November 21, 2017 My 6 came to me with Automec Silicone in the brakes and clutch. Looking through the receipt book the car seems to have ‘gone silicone’ a long time ago, more than 10 years. I’ve not had a problem with either system, however doing some research the silicone fluid is significantly more compressible than regular dot4, and i do have a longish brake pedal action which i dont like. Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mike3md Posted November 21, 2017 Report Share Posted November 21, 2017 Don, At the very least, flush out and refill you brake system (and clutch). Having 8 year old brake fluid in your car is NOT a good thing! It is inexpensive, and a false and possibly dangerous economy. Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Quicksilver Posted November 21, 2017 Report Share Posted November 21, 2017 Don, Same like Mike said, 8 years is far to long. I change the fluid every two years or when we have some long trip to the Alps, i give it some extra attention. Marcel. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
monty Posted November 21, 2017 Report Share Posted November 21, 2017 Excellent! Not everyone is so fortunate, monty. There are a ton of cars with brake fluid-damaged paintwork. Sorry Don for my ambiguity. It is silicone fluid I have had in my cars hence the no corrosion comment. Cheers. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don H. Posted November 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2017 Sorry Don for my ambiguity. It is silicone fluid I have had in my cars hence the no corrosion comment. Cheers. Yeah, on rereading your post yesterday I saw that's what you meant, monty. Thanks for the clarification. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted November 21, 2017 Report Share Posted November 21, 2017 My TR4 changed to Silicone for brakes and clutch when it was re-built in the early 1990s. It went back on the road in 1993, so I've been on Silicone even longer than Peter Cobbold. A rear brake cylinder started weeping in 2006, so I replaced it - but, as far as I am concerned, that is just one of those things. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted November 21, 2017 Report Share Posted November 21, 2017 Does anyone know: Can you mix silicone brake fluids from different brands with each other? Thanks, Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted November 21, 2017 Report Share Posted November 21, 2017 I can beat you by a couple of years Ian - I used Namrick silicone when I rebuilt my 4A, which was back on the road in 1989, so the fluid probably went in in '88. No problems since, although the fluid in the clutch m/c went black fairly quickly. I chose silicone after finding that a rag soaked in the old brake fluid lifted the primer-filler on my boot lid, that had previously resisted every paint stripper I'd tried. Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted November 21, 2017 Report Share Posted November 21, 2017 Does anyone know: Can you mix silicone brake fluids from different brands with each other? Thanks, Waldi My guess would be yes (it's supposed to be inert after all), but I'm not sure guessing is a good approach when it comes to brakes. Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mike3md Posted November 21, 2017 Report Share Posted November 21, 2017 Pete, 29 year old brake fluid! I fail see see the benefit of ageing brake fluid, whatever DOT! Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted November 21, 2017 Report Share Posted November 21, 2017 Silicone Mike. Doesn't absorb moisture. Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 21, 2017 Report Share Posted November 21, 2017 (edited) Hi Pete, yes it does but not in the same way as DOT3 or 4. DOT 3 or 4 is hydroscopic. It will absorb/Adsorb water and mix with it. DOT 5, like all fluids will allow water to exist within its environment. So your pipework and calipers could well be going rusty without you knowing. The master cylinder has a vent. The atmosphere changes pressure continuously so water moisture is drawn into the cavity above the fluid in the MC. It condenses and falls into the DOT5. DOT 3 or 4 with thoroughly mixed water can cause corrosion but may be not as extensively as one may think. DOT 5 with separated water within it will cause corrosion where the water sits. You still need to inspect the pipework periodically Roger Edited November 21, 2017 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted November 21, 2017 Report Share Posted November 21, 2017 Roger, I read that a while ago, and tried to find any water in the system - I couldn't. Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 21, 2017 Report Share Posted November 21, 2017 Did you use a dowsing rod and a bucket of water. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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