JohnG Posted November 11, 2016 Report Share Posted November 11, 2016 At the end of this month, I will, finally, be taking my old steel wheels to be refurbished. Is there a specific colour code for the finish and if there is, can you tell me what it is? I am thinking that they should be a light grey. I plan powder coating. Any thoughts? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted November 11, 2016 Report Share Posted November 11, 2016 Wet spray (stove enamelled) is better I am told (that said my own wheels are powder coated) If you do get them powder coated dribble some paint down the gap where the centre pressing is welded to the rim, as the powder coating does not always get in there. Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted November 11, 2016 Report Share Posted November 11, 2016 There's a lot to be said for elbow grease and a rattle can . . . . . at least the wheel won't warp under the heat of powder coating . . . . Cheers Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Austin Branson Posted November 11, 2016 Report Share Posted November 11, 2016 Hi, I had my wheels shotblasted and enamelled by Bannings at Salford Bridge in Birmingham -they have subsidiary company who work with them. Very pleased with the results. They matched the original colour. Austin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sapphire72 Posted November 12, 2016 Report Share Posted November 12, 2016 (edited) It would be a good idea to have the refurbished wheel(s) checked for true roundness & run-out. The old steel wheels are known to get out of round. They can be successfully straightened by an experienced wheelwright. I did mine on the cheap; just painted, front & back, with two spray cans of 'Wheel Silver'. Made a cutout of paper to cover the rubber, then masking taped the edges. About 5-6 medium coats. Edited November 12, 2016 by Sapphire72 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Morrison Posted November 12, 2016 Report Share Posted November 12, 2016 +1 for the above and Alecs comments, Make sure your wheels are worth spending any money on at all, and if so then paint at home, is simple, cheap, effective and safe!" IF your heart is set on powder coating, remove it from the wheel stub area so that you are not bolting on to it when the wheel goes back on the car, it car crack undeer the pressure of the nut in service, and result in loose/lost wheel nuts, wheels and having 'only three wheels on your wagon' John. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andrew Smith Posted November 12, 2016 Report Share Posted November 12, 2016 (edited) John, Powder coated 'Standard Silver' (below) is pretty close to the original colour, but unless your'e going to the expense of having an original wheel (if you can find a one) Spectrum Analysed and sprayed (original finish) then close enough is good enough. Cheers Andrew Edited November 12, 2016 by Andrew Smith Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Malcolm Tatton Posted November 12, 2016 Report Share Posted November 12, 2016 It would be a good idea to have the refurbished wheel(s) checked for true roundness & run-out. +1 Certainly check them first, (ask me how I know.....) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Moltu Posted November 12, 2016 Report Share Posted November 12, 2016 Shot blast, powder coat then run a bead of silicon in the seam. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR NIALL Posted November 12, 2016 Report Share Posted November 12, 2016 (edited) On 11/12/2016 at 11:36 AM, andymoltu said: Shot blast, powder coat then run a bead of silicon in the seam. I done the same as Andy suggests to a set of GT6 Wheels,See Photo of finished Wheel. Edited October 26, 2019 by TR NIALL Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted November 12, 2016 Report Share Posted November 12, 2016 The wheels need to be checked before repainting . . . . . If you're powder coating then check them afterwards too . . . . . . Most powder coaters raise and lower the heat too quickly for the liking of large items like wheels, and that is even more critical with alloy than steel rims. Net result, a significant proportion of powder coated wheels will be out of true. Need I add, powder coaters who can make a proper job of wheels, longer heating and cooling cycles, will cost more - if only because they use more gas and process fewer batches per day. You get what you pay for. Personally I wouldn't waste money on powder coating or stove enamelling used wheels. Cheers Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnG Posted November 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2016 It would be a good idea to have the refurbished wheel(s) checked for true roundness & run-out. The old steel wheels are known to get out of round. They can be successfully straightened by an experienced wheelwright. I did mine on the cheap; just painted, front & back, with two spray cans of 'Wheel Silver'. Made a cutout of paper to cover the rubber, then masking taped the edges. About 5-6 medium coats. +1 Certainly check them first, (ask me how I know.....) The wheels need to be checked before repainting . . . . . If you're powder coating then check them afterwards too . . . . . . Most powder coaters raise and lower the heat too quickly for the liking of large items like wheels, and that is even more critical with alloy than steel rims. Net result, a significant proportion of powder coated wheels will be out of true. Need I add, powder coaters who can make a proper job of wheels, longer heating and cooling cycles, will cost more - if only because they use more gas and process fewer batches per day. You get what you pay for. Personally I wouldn't waste money on powder coating or stove enamelling used wheels. Cheers Alec All Thanks for the info . . . .checks are obviously now in order Where would I go to get them checked and straightened (business type rather than a specific company, unless of course, you know of someone in the Essex neck of the woods)? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andrew Smith Posted November 12, 2016 Report Share Posted November 12, 2016 John, Any tyre specialist will be able to check if they are running true. Cheers Andrew Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnG Posted November 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2016 (edited) All The wheels are now with the specialists . . .3 weeks to check, blast and powder coat The next bit is rubber . . . I currently have minilite replicas fitted with 195 65R15's I think she looks 'over tyred' and the ride is quite harsh. What is the modern tyre size I should use to replicate the original look? Is this the right way to go? Edited November 17, 2016 by wjgco Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sapphire72 Posted November 17, 2016 Report Share Posted November 17, 2016 All The wheels are now with the specialists . . .3 weeks to check, blast and powder coat The next bit is rubber . . . I currently have minilite replicas fitted with 195 65R15's I think she looks 'over tyred' and the ride is quite harsh. What is the modern tyre size I should use to replicate the original look? Is this the right way to go? Your wheels are going to be lovely! Ha Ha. You will get a lot of opinions about tyre size & brand. Original were 165-15, optional 185-15. Harsh ride? Might be your shocks . Might be your tyre pressure- try 22 psi front/26 psi rear, for starters. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bodiam Posted November 17, 2016 Report Share Posted November 17, 2016 Hi, John, This thread I ran in May covered a lot of the tyre size and make issues you might think worth considering - http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/56623-tyres-and-wheels/ Hope you find it useful. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aardvark Posted November 17, 2016 Report Share Posted November 17, 2016 Michelin xas 165's - you know you want to Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bodiam Posted November 17, 2016 Report Share Posted November 17, 2016 I might want to, but I didn't fancy trying to raise a mortgage to buy them! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andrew Smith Posted November 18, 2016 Report Share Posted November 18, 2016 (edited) Michelin xas 165's - you know you want to +1 I might want to, but I didn't fancy trying to raise a mortgage to buy them! John, Yes, they are not cheap but were a period fitment - see my photo posted above. Another option is the Vredestein Sprint Classic 175/70, I had these on my last TR6 (VUX) and in this size provides the same rolling radius as the original 165/80, so the speedo won't be too far out (maybe 5%). Google Blackcircles. Cheers Andrew Edited November 18, 2016 by Andrew Smith Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnG Posted November 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2016 Michelin xas 165's - you know you want to I might want to, but I didn't fancy trying to raise a mortgage to buy them! +1 John, Yes, they are not cheap but were a period fitment - see my photo posted above. Another option is the Vredestein Sprint Classic 175/70, I had these on my last TR6 (VUX) and in this size provides the same rolling radius as the original 165/80, so the speedo won't be too far out (maybe 5%). Google Blackcircles. Cheers Andrew Gents I had XAS tyres on my bike (a Triumph!) When I were but a lad. Phenomenal road holding, but corks . . . they were a bit pricey and they were not a bit of good when it came to gripping the road as an oldie in a car, contrived to push the bike sideways down Croft Road in Wallingford. If I can find them at a price that is a little less than extortionate, I'll go for them, otherwise . . . . . . . .not sure, yet. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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