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  • Location
    West Midlands
  • Cars Owned:
    TR6 CP 1970

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  1. The bevel on my ring gear faces the gear box. My starter has a bevel on the pinion gear which engages from the front. My understanding is that the two bevels shouldn’t meet. Ie if the pinion has no bevel, then the ring gear pinion should have the bevel on the engaged side.
  2. They are nylocs and big ones at that. The two outer ones aren’t loose but they screw onto the stub axle which does appear to screw into something internally; perhaps an inner nut? Does anyone know if this is the case?
  3. Hello Roger. my hubs are quaife so are a different design to the standard hubs. One side has a central nut that is left handed and the other is right handed. any ideas? cheers dave
  4. Hello chaps. I’m resurrecting this thread because both my rear hubs - quaife types - have some play in them and checking the big central nut I found I could tighten it up quite a lot (relatively speaking). I have the left hand thread on the right side of the car. From the above thread, it seems like no one back in 2013 had the answer to whether the left hand thread should be on the left or right side. Do people have an opinion today? Also, does anyone have an idea on how tight the central nut should be tightened? Does the axle have an outer and an inner nut to it because the looseness in the hub appears not to be the outer nut, however putting a socket on it and tightening it removes the play - as though it’s tightening something within the hub. Does that make sense? cheers dave
  5. Hello everyone. I have done the reverse of Phil. I’ve taken off my motolita (which looks to be the same as Phil’s) and replaced with the original. The original wheel covering is nicer feeling in the hand and there were too many reflections bouncing off the motolita onto the windscreen in sunny situations for my liking. Lastly, the triumph marque badge is bigger on the original wheel compared to the motolita and that is a welcome positive in my view. cheers dave
  6. aardvark

    Stuttering TR6

    Also check with a spare set of good ignition (spark plug) leads. When these start to breakdown they exhibit the stuttering and bad pick up that you mention you have.
  7. Ha .... I see what you did there.... nice one !
  8. Here you are. Hope you can make out what is happening. Let me know if you need any other pictures. cheers dave
  9. Hello Paul. yes access is easy peasey once you have found the right position to cut the hole. A socket extension is all you need then to access the top nut. I have a plastic tunnel so was able to put a grommet in the hole afterwards. Carpets just peel back so no problem there. My wosp has a captive bolt and not a stud so you can move it slightly backwards for more access. This introduces another problem though because you need to hold the head of the bolt in a restricted area in the engine bay. Nothing too tricky though. will try to send photos in a bit. cheers dave
  10. Paul. cut an access hole in the gearbox tunnel cover and then you can access the top nut via a socket extension. Removing / installing the starter is then a 10 min job. good luck. dave
  11. Found it. It was just a coincidence! Bad earth to the front lights.
  12. Merry Christmas all. i thought I would take advantage of the holiday season and clean my rear indicator lights. I stripped them out no problem cleaned them and re installed. All works ok except that the front right indicator bulb has stopped working. Is this coincidence or by working at the back of the car I’ve made the indicator at the front stop working? To be clear, the right rear indicator works but the front right and wing repeater has stopped working. Any help is appreciated. cheers dave
  13. aardvark

    Broken stub axle?

    If it is the fulcrum pin bracket then you should be able to see damage to the inner wing by lifting the bonnet. whatever it is, commiserations Ian. Did you hit a pothole or just driving normally?
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