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aardvark

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  • Location
    West Midlands
  • Cars Owned:
    TR6 CP 1970

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  1. ... I don’t think it matters either way as any repairs now should last another 30 to 50 years unless you over tighten them! cheers dave
  2. aardvark

    Alternator

    John. Try this link cheers dave
  3. After much deliberation and the car progressively getting much worse to idle, and rev, I used a dwell meter which showed 60 degrees. Now I previously had diligently set the points gap and checked the dwell and ensured everything was tightened up properly before going on a test drive so not sure what happened there. So I decided to put the old points back in. Immediately I could tell that the new points were very rough in opening and closing such that they would ‘hang up’ unless ‘snapped back’ under full spring pressure. The old points are much smoother in action. On starting the car with the old points, everything seemed to go back to normal; revs ok, no stalling etc etc. I didn’t take the car on the road because it’s too dark now so it’ll have to wait for tomorrow. However I’m confident I’ve found the problem..... dodgy points.... arghh. cheers dave
  4. Hello chaps.... thread resurrection, The same has just happened to me. I’ve just changed the points and taken the car out for 5 mile spin and then on the way back it just died. It immediately started on the key but died about 300m later. This was repeated until I got home. It starts on the key but obviously doesn’t like something. PI car on traditional points. So some more details: if I rev the engine in the garage to around 2.5-3k revs for a little while and then take my foot off the accelerator, the engine completely cuts out - engine is warm. Whilst out driving, the car feels like it will stumble after around 200m of normal driving. On restart, the engine idles at very low revs (around 0.5k) - was ok earlier when I initially went out. Fuel pump sounds no different to normal - it’s an old 996 Bosch. I’ve done the tongue test and the mu holds vacuum and changed the coil but no difference to the problem. Last night all was ok. This morning the problem started after I went for a test drive after I did some maintenance .... I checked valve clearances and disconnected the flap trap pipe and the mu vac pipe so as to remove rocker box. I then changed the points and lifted out the dissy baseplate to clean the inside. There was some old debris in there such as the little metal clips that hold the rotor on. These look very old and I fished out the ones I could see with a magnet. That was all i did before this problem emerged. What do you chaps recommend I check next? cheers dave
  5. My TRR insurance has the European breakdown coverage included for £40 for the whole year. Check it out in the club magazine. It’s coverage is at least as good as AA. cheers dave
  6. My cp car has the original Lucas lenses and they have the chrome surrounds. The original tr book also shows the uk cars at least as having the chrome surround. Ed - where have you read that the chrome is us only?
  7. The TR6 is a squarish type of car rather than angular so Mark’s original post where he describes the repeaters as being ‘parallel to the car’ must be what Karmann wanted to achieve. So now that you know, are you still going to be wearing your shoes on the wrong feet ? cheers dave
  8. Phil. your leaking LA have nothing to do with the springs. You could get racetorations to ‘re-engineer’ your LA for £££ like I have. Excellent results and great service. Cheers dave
  9. The thick end should be at the front. Cheers dave
  10. Hello chaps. on the way home from Stratford today I noticed that when I put my foot on the brake, there is a slight drop in the pedal and a chuff noise. Brakes work ok otherwise. When idling, several pushes of the brake pedal results in a slight increase in revs. Engine stopped, several pushes of the pedal and then hold pedal down when restarting results in the pedal dropping slightly on start up. So I think the servo is ok. Is there anything to worry about? cheers dave
  11. I fitted new hawk hps last weekend along with refurbed callipers. I reused the old shims, and used the red grease that they came with. After bedding them in, I had a very slight squeal but this has now gone. They are now silent. Performance is pretty good. Cheers dave
  12. Good result Rich. The wheels with the most balancing weights should always be placed on the rear axle to avoid vibrations at the steering wheel. cheers dave
  13. Are you referring to the stud rather than a bolt?
  14. That road looks awesome Conrad. Car looks great too! cheers dave
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