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  • Location
    West Midlands
  • Cars Owned:
    TR6 CP 1970

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  1. aardvark

    Stuttering TR6

    Also check with a spare set of good ignition (spark plug) leads. When these start to breakdown they exhibit the stuttering and bad pick up that you mention you have.
  2. Ha .... I see what you did there.... nice one !
  3. Here you are. Hope you can make out what is happening. Let me know if you need any other pictures. cheers dave
  4. Hello Paul. yes access is easy peasey once you have found the right position to cut the hole. A socket extension is all you need then to access the top nut. I have a plastic tunnel so was able to put a grommet in the hole afterwards. Carpets just peel back so no problem there. My wosp has a captive bolt and not a stud so you can move it slightly backwards for more access. This introduces another problem though because you need to hold the head of the bolt in a restricted area in the engine bay. Nothing too tricky though. will try to send photos in a bit. cheers dave
  5. Paul. cut an access hole in the gearbox tunnel cover and then you can access the top nut via a socket extension. Removing / installing the starter is then a 10 min job. good luck. dave
  6. Found it. It was just a coincidence! Bad earth to the front lights.
  7. Merry Christmas all. i thought I would take advantage of the holiday season and clean my rear indicator lights. I stripped them out no problem cleaned them and re installed. All works ok except that the front right indicator bulb has stopped working. Is this coincidence or by working at the back of the car I’ve made the indicator at the front stop working? To be clear, the right rear indicator works but the front right and wing repeater has stopped working. Any help is appreciated. cheers dave
  8. aardvark

    Broken stub axle?

    If it is the fulcrum pin bracket then you should be able to see damage to the inner wing by lifting the bonnet. whatever it is, commiserations Ian. Did you hit a pothole or just driving normally?
  9. My garage is attached to the house and ill fitting doors won’t be considered a desirable ‘upgrade’ in my wife’s eyes.
  10. Mine is a Meaco DD8L. I use it only during nov and dec as the higher humidity and lower temperatures during those months do cause some minor condensation mainly from my breath! Outside of those months then I find the humidity and temperature are either both higher or both lower meaning that condensation isn’t a problem. Cheers dave
  11. Here it is ..... cheers dave
  12. ... I don’t think it matters either way as any repairs now should last another 30 to 50 years unless you over tighten them! cheers dave
  13. aardvark


    John. Try this link cheers dave
  14. After much deliberation and the car progressively getting much worse to idle, and rev, I used a dwell meter which showed 60 degrees. Now I previously had diligently set the points gap and checked the dwell and ensured everything was tightened up properly before going on a test drive so not sure what happened there. So I decided to put the old points back in. Immediately I could tell that the new points were very rough in opening and closing such that they would ‘hang up’ unless ‘snapped back’ under full spring pressure. The old points are much smoother in action. On starting the car with the old points, everything seemed to go back to normal; revs ok, no stalling etc etc. I didn’t take the car on the road because it’s too dark now so it’ll have to wait for tomorrow. However I’m confident I’ve found the problem..... dodgy points.... arghh. cheers dave
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