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aardvark

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  • Location
    West Midlands
  • Cars Owned:
    TR6 CP 1970

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  1. Two or three cranks of the starter sounds about right it you are using the car intermittently. If you use the car daily then I find it’s one or two cranks. Don’t expect these cars to start up like a carb car.
  2. What cold start problems are you having? You refer to it not being ‘turn key’. These cars need a bit of key turning. Are you expecting it to start straight away or are you struggling to get it to start after a lot of turning over? cheers dave
  3. Not sure what problem you are looking to find. My throttle bodies look very similar to yours and have the same oily residue you describe in the plenum. The car uses no oil between services and drives really well. I’d suggest just driving and enjoying the car as it is and fixing things that become clear as needing attention after driving rather than looking for problems without driving. These cars are from a different era. You can’t really tell a great deal unless you drive the car. Get it on the road whilst the summer is still here !
  4. To close this thread off, I purchased the springs in the first link (see above), modified them to suit ( they needed shortening), installed them and I have to say that I’m really impressed. All of the annoying rattles have now vanished. Best ten quid spent to date. regards dave
  5. So springs are fitted and all the rattles have now disappeared. It is surprising how much the pads slightly moving in the callipers contributes to the overall rattles and squeaks when driving. For just over ten quid, I’d say that it’s been money well spent. cheers dave
  6. Hello chaps. I’ve used Valvemaster Plus for the last seven years. It says it contains ethanol stabilisers as well as the lead replacement additives. I’ve never suffered from stale fuel over winter. Interestingly, we have had a shortage of Shell VMax here recently and all the stations had run out. Having read the thread on Esso having 0% ethanol I chose to fill up there instead. I don’t think it’s me thinking there’s a difference because even my wife has told me that the car is running much smoother. Esso will be my brand of choice from now on. cheers dave
  7. Check out this thread… Springs have been delivered (yesterday). As predicted, they are too long and need bending to suit. I’m in the process of doing that as we speak. I will report back on how I get on. cheers dave
  8. I’ll give the first link a go - thanks Peter W. Stuart - I have the correct pins for the callipers, pads are the correct hawk ones. Peter c - I thought the shims are to get the correct approach angle. Previous TRR threads suggest the springs weren’t originally fitted on triumph applications but were on Ford applications to stop the rattle. The links I referred to were previous posters suggested solutions from at least 15 years ago but, as always, there was some difference of opinion as to which ones were correct. I had hoped that someone knew the definitive answer. cheers
  9. The pads move in the direction of travel of the disk, Peter. They don’t rattle against the pistons.
  10. Hello chaps. I know this has come up many times but there have been many differing thoughts as to which springs are the right ones. So, for a large pin imperial calliper on a 1970 CP, which spring kit works? …. This one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/370521816641?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3Dc10056b7259749c091e71fe7c7a980f6%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D370521816641%26itm%3D370521816641%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3A72744f2d-e425-
  11. Peter - check out my thread entitled “Sticking brakes and Rev limited engine - one problem or two separate problems” posted on 4th June this year. Sounds very similar to my problem. cheers dave
  12. To close this out, I removed the servo and observed that the pushrod could be pulled and pushed and not return properly. At its worst, the pushrod projected beyond the casing by a couple of mm. That was enough to keep the brakes on. The whole pushrod was rough feeling so sometimes it could retract and other times it would stay out. I changed the servo out and replaced with a new one and the original problem seems to have been solved. cheers dave
  13. Dot 4 used Stuart. It’s all intermittent at the moment - happened twice in two weeks. will replace the servo first and see if that fixes it. cheers dave
  14. Just an update on this. I’ve stripped down all the brakes and have confirmed that the problem with the brakes sticking isn’t to do with callipers or cylinders. m/c isn’t leaking but the servo has now started hissing and accelerating the engine when lightly applying the brake. ive spoken to trbitz and the conclusion drawn is that the servo (at least) is kaput. It was refurbed about 5 years ago. Potentially it is ‘hanging on’ and causing brake drag. Cheers dave
  15. Hello chaps. last week whilst driving at around 55mph, the car seems to be Rev limited to around 2000 rpm. Jabbing the accelerator and going in and out of od wouldn’t get the revs above 2000. A slight burning smell then prevailed until everything cleared and the car ran perfectly from that point on. today, while returning from a pleasant 100 mile round trip, my brakes started squeeling. This didn’t last too long and all was ok for a bit longer until a rattle / knock appeared which felt and sounded like the pads shifting in the calliper. A short while later, the front brake
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