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aardvark

Registered User
  • Content Count

    373
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  • Location
    West Midlands
  • Cars Owned:
    TR6 CP 1970

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  1. aardvark

    Tyres once again

    Dave dont fall into the trap of thinking all tyres of a certain size are the same. The xas have a different profile to modern tyres - they are more rounded in cross section compared to modern tyres which are more square. They were designed for our cars suspension geometry. I agree they are expensive but at least the car will handle like it should. In my case, the car was transformed. No regrets. cheers dave
  2. aardvark

    Tyres once again

    +1 . I changed to mich xas’s. Spot on!
  3. Oh yeah, zoom in and they are there! Just ignore me!
  4. aardvark

    Photos of car

    Andy - that looks amazing. Cheers dave
  5. Paul. you haven’t got any shock bushes on top of the shock tower (should go beneath the big washer to isolate from the shock tower). Might be worth getting some. See part 62 below....
  6. When you bolt the plenum to the support frame, try bolting it to the other face of the frame. Not easy to describe, but if the plenum tab is on the left of the frame, try to ensure it is on the right of the frame (or vice versa). I have the same issue on mine but if I bolt as described, there is a slight tension in the frame which acts to pull the plenum onto the hose rather than pull it off. cheers dave
  7. aardvark

    Stopping squeeking suspension bushes

    Just giving an update on this. I’ve stripped down the front driver suspension today to take a look whether masterlube had caused problems to the poly bushes. It’s also given me chance to look at how the bushes have lasted over the 12 months since installation and to try to track down where the squeak occurs. I’ve also spoken to Revington regarding suitable grease. They recommend their own concoction of assembly grease sold in individual, unbranded packets. So I’ve found no evidence of any problem by using masterlube. I did find that the upper rear, and lower front inner bushes were dry of lubrication. The squeak can occur between the steel tube and the inner face of the bush and on the face of the bush against the washer. I’ve regreased using a heavy silicon grease and revingtons grease (which looks a little like mayonnaise with a thin consistency). Certainly, I’ve ensured that the grease is applied everywhere there is a contact face. I will see how that performs over the year ahead. Therefore I conclude that if the squeak is coming from the washer and the side face of the bush then there is a chance that an aerosol lube could penetrate to cause effective lubrication - at least for a time. If the squeak is occurring between the steel spacer tube and the inner face of the bush then there is no way an aerosol can penetrate. So I think this explains why an aerosol lube works for some but not for others. Passenger side tomorrow. Cheers dave
  8. aardvark

    Cheap PRV

    I have the same set up and it has had no issues in the last 20+ years. Cheers dave
  9. aardvark

    And so it begins.....

    Seems I can emoji sad ☹️ but not emoji happy . What’s going on?
  10. aardvark

    And so it begins.....

    Hmmm. I’ve tried and it says “☹️
  11. aardvark

    And so it begins.....

    Well done mate. At least the od has oil in it. Blue is the colour (And if I could post an emoji then it would have a smiling face). cheers dave
  12. aardvark

    Offer of new / re-cored radiator

    Yes Rich. Check the moss cat or website. The variants are shown there. Cheers dave
  13. aardvark

    CJ Autos Mini Tilting Car Lift

    Steve. I think (...????) you need 50 inches clear to the side of the car to push the frame under. So your garage looks to be too narrow. Can you use it on your drive? I don’t think you can drive over it with ramps because the tyre centres are about the same distance apart as the frame width - check out Hamish’s photos. Perhaps someone has devised a way to do it though. cheers dave
  14. aardvark

    Heater - sealed to plenum chamber or not

    Well done for getting the heater out Marco. The heater is normally (!) sealed with a foam circular seal (thick gasket I suppose). These come up on eBay but I suppose the usual suppliers can source too. Yes you need to seal it. cheers dave
  15. aardvark

    Offer of new / re-cored radiator

    Rich. if it is original (having the Stanpart stamp in the header tank) then you should get it. cheers dave
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