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aardvark

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    467
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  • Location
    West Midlands
  • Cars Owned:
    TR6 CP 1970

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  1. Richard. I made a cut through the carpet vertically aligned with the back of the h frame. That way the cut is hidden from view by the h frame. You can then peel back the carpet to get to the filler plug. On my car, the filler plug is slightly further than 6” from the back of the h frame. cheers dave
  2. One of the best moves I have made is putting the original size 165’s on. Drives like it should now.
  3. aardvark

    Newbie

    Chris - the owners manual says 45 to 65 psi at 2000 revs. This is with engine hot. cheers dave
  4. To my eyes, the striker catch lever is above the cam because the cam has over rotated and therefore cannot jam the mechanism because it is no longer in contact with it which is the reason Pete had a problem. pete’s solution was to use a cane (you can see it in the photo) to move the latch lever. If the over rotation of the emergency release cam had jammed then he wouldn’t be able to use the cane to open the latch.
  5. This is what I was referring to .... it’s the photo from Pete earlier in the thread. The Over rotation limiting Screw wasn’t installed and therefore there was nothing to stop an enthusiastic pull of the rod causing the over rotation. If you look at the photo, the cam is clear of the mechanism which will snap back into a locked position by the spring tension in the lock mechanism. Pete hadn’t got the normal cable release so couldn’t open the bonnet conventionally using the normal cable. In Stephens case, he has got the normal cable pull as back up I think and because he still can’t open the bonnet is the reason why I think the striker pin is mis aligned. It must be a long way out though!
  6. No problem Stephen. If the emergency opener has over rotated then it shouldn’t foul the opener mechanism unless it was of an unusual type. I have had something similar but in my instance the emergency opener jammed the catch open so I couldn’t shut the bonnet to make it latch. Therefore my money would be on the striker pin being out of alignment unfortunately. good luck dave
  7. If you check pete’s earlier photos then it shows up quite well. The emergency opener rotates and levers the bonnet opening catch - check out Photo from email from 27th March 18. The problem Pete had was that if he pulled the opening rod too hard then the emergency opener over rotates as shown in the second photo from Pete on email 27 March 18. This wouldn’t have been a problem if he had the normal cable pull attached. cheers dave
  8. Gareth. The normally available door seals are o shaped. The original ones were flap shaped (!) not o shaped. The o shaped are wider than original. Woolies have the flap shaped version. My door banging ceased when I used the woolies version. cheers dave
  9. Phil, original ones should have a date stamped on them; week number and year just before the part number (new ones don’t have the date stamped). my spare pointed nose ones are early 70’s whereas my point - less one is mid 70’s. cheers dave
  10. Took my 6 out today for an mot and 50 mile round trip drive and picnic. The mot garage was out in the sticks and really did not have any work on because of the cv situation so he was happy for the trade - a proper classic car friendly place too. cheers dave
  11. Hello Doyley. What sort of help do you need? Are you looking for someone to help you to eventually look after the car yourself or are you looking to just take the car to someone for them to service it etc and for you not to be bothered about the maintenance side? Is it just standard servicing or are there specific issues you want resolving? Is it a standard car with pi? Answering these questions will help with the answer to the original question. Ie a local trusted garage might be ok to change a tapered wheel bearing but are unlikely to understand pi. The main trusted TR specific places like TRE, TRBitz and TRGB are quite some distance from you but I would suggest if you are looking for general servicing then more local alternatives are available depending on the issues needing resolving. cheers dave
  12. You can tell the lockdown is set to ease soon because the weather has changed.
  13. I’ve just spent a day trying to get my bullet mirrors adjusted and I’m now very pleased with the view. Both mirrors are very steady (no wobble or shake) when driving, and show a good image down the side of the car which is something I thought I would never be able achieve. The only problem is the small glass area which means they are perfect for looking almost directly behind the car on either side but aren’t a patch on modern mirrors vision just because they are so much smaller. The conclusion I draw is that you need to move your head more (mainly front and rear) to vary the view to each side using the bullet mirrors. This, to me, feels in keeping with the more physical effort of driving a classic car compared to a modern, where by just using moving your eyes you can see so much more with the modern mirrors. I’m not advocating bullet mirrors as being the best classic mirror (because the Tex or variations on the Tex having more glass area will inherently have more rearward vision), but what I am saying is when set up properly, the combination of bullet mirrors and the central rear view mirror give perfectly good visibility for most of the time. cheers dave
  14. I don’t think impact wrenches do chrome plated wheel nuts any favours.
  15. Is this the housing that sits on the bumper. If so, I don’t have any problem with mine leaking. Is the rubber gasket installed properly and in good condition?
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