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aardvark

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  • Location
    West Midlands
  • Cars Owned:
    TR6 CP 1970

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  1. I’ll give the first link a go - thanks Peter W. Stuart - I have the correct pins for the callipers, pads are the correct hawk ones. Peter c - I thought the shims are to get the correct approach angle. Previous TRR threads suggest the springs weren’t originally fitted on triumph applications but were on Ford applications to stop the rattle. The links I referred to were previous posters suggested solutions from at least 15 years ago but, as always, there was some difference of opinion as to which ones were correct. I had hoped that someone knew the definitive answer. cheers
  2. The pads move in the direction of travel of the disk, Peter. They don’t rattle against the pistons.
  3. Hello chaps. I know this has come up many times but there have been many differing thoughts as to which springs are the right ones. So, for a large pin imperial calliper on a 1970 CP, which spring kit works? …. This one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/370521816641?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3Dc10056b7259749c091e71fe7c7a980f6%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D370521816641%26itm%3D370521816641%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3A72744f2d-e425-
  4. Peter - check out my thread entitled “Sticking brakes and Rev limited engine - one problem or two separate problems” posted on 4th June this year. Sounds very similar to my problem. cheers dave
  5. To close this out, I removed the servo and observed that the pushrod could be pulled and pushed and not return properly. At its worst, the pushrod projected beyond the casing by a couple of mm. That was enough to keep the brakes on. The whole pushrod was rough feeling so sometimes it could retract and other times it would stay out. I changed the servo out and replaced with a new one and the original problem seems to have been solved. cheers dave
  6. Dot 4 used Stuart. It’s all intermittent at the moment - happened twice in two weeks. will replace the servo first and see if that fixes it. cheers dave
  7. Just an update on this. I’ve stripped down all the brakes and have confirmed that the problem with the brakes sticking isn’t to do with callipers or cylinders. m/c isn’t leaking but the servo has now started hissing and accelerating the engine when lightly applying the brake. ive spoken to trbitz and the conclusion drawn is that the servo (at least) is kaput. It was refurbed about 5 years ago. Potentially it is ‘hanging on’ and causing brake drag. Cheers dave
  8. Hello chaps. last week whilst driving at around 55mph, the car seems to be Rev limited to around 2000 rpm. Jabbing the accelerator and going in and out of od wouldn’t get the revs above 2000. A slight burning smell then prevailed until everything cleared and the car ran perfectly from that point on. today, while returning from a pleasant 100 mile round trip, my brakes started squeeling. This didn’t last too long and all was ok for a bit longer until a rattle / knock appeared which felt and sounded like the pads shifting in the calliper. A short while later, the front brake
  9. Why don’t you speak to Skinners as they will know what materials they were using back then.
  10. I had these symptoms (starts and drives well until it gets warm then backfires and stops and refuses to start - after a 10 minutes or so it starts right up, drives ok until it gets warm again and then stops). In my case, the problem started after I had changed the points. I swapped them back to my old points and the problem vanished. On inspection of the problem points ( brand new from dizzie doc), it seems that the spring loses spring tension when hot and the points stay open... most bizarre. Reported this back to dizzie doc and he sent me a replacement set. good luck.
  11. Certain manufacturers of cars have deleted the indicator tell tale lights - or so it seems.
  12. Geoff. Have you checked for current at the pump? Have you got the pump wired via a fused relay and if so have you checked those too? Cheers Dave
  13. Steve. Have you spoken to one of the PI specialists such as KMI, TR Trader or Neil Fergusson? All of them should be able to supply you quality parts. my 6 hadn’t been used for a long time when I bought it and had similar running issues as you. A series of refurb injectors cured for a short time only. I bought a new set of injectors from kmi and that totally did the trick. I had the metering unit calibrated and the seals changed by Neil too. Sometimes you need to bite the bullet and hit the problem as a whole rather than incrementally tickle the problem around the edges. t
  14. Looks more like the A post seal to me.
  15. I thought the new style prv was supposed to eliminate the resonance?
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