McMuttley Posted October 12, 2016 Report Share Posted October 12, 2016 The rear lights are now working - new base plate and bulbs to remedy the damage caused by the naff LED's. Q1 - to test the units when not fixed on the car I obviously needed to earth the socket - they weren't earthed before, should they be - the is a spare bullt on the plate which appears to be for an earth? The PO seemed to have relied on the screws through the base plate into the spire nuts for earthing ?? Q2 - still no brake light, even when the pedal is pressed hard, so going to replace the hydraulic switch. Can someone with my level of (in)competence replace it without having to bleed the brakes - is it a case of quick off, thumb over hole and quick on again ? The switch I have ordered is 21B291 (chassis No. 26000#) Moss doesn't seem to offer tapped or parallel options ? Also, I have read on other posts the suggestion of installing a copper washer - is there a specific type - again no suggestion in the boook. PS - Q3 - where will I find the switch on the car ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted October 12, 2016 Report Share Posted October 12, 2016 Keep the broken item in place, remove the wiring an reroute this to a switch that you mount under the dash, behind the brake pedal or on the pedal box under the bonnet. Menno Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 12, 2016 Report Share Posted October 12, 2016 (edited) Hi Austin, here is where the switch is located http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/brake-system/brake-controls-hydraulics/brake-pipes-girling-system.html #39. As Menno states - do not remove the switch but consider using a BMW switch from ebay - cheaper than the original and they work and last. some thing like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brake-Light-Switch-BMW-3-Series-E30-E21-Volvo-240-940-850-760-740-240-/230958745598?fits=Car+Make%3ABMW&hash=item35c636c7fe:g:lT0AAMXQ71xRXtXx On the 4A the switch is positioned just in front of the brake pedal where it joints the input shaft of the Master Cylinder. I don;t know if this is possible on the 3/3A. Roger Edited October 12, 2016 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
e_ingemann Posted October 12, 2016 Report Share Posted October 12, 2016 Hi Austin, I did the brake switch on my TR3 a couple of years ago, after I swapped a handfull of the hydraulic switches, they just kept mailfunction. I will post a photograph later. I used the TR4 switch, the only thing you need to do is enlarge the hole allready present in front of the brake pedal in the pedal box. Since then no worries. Esben Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted October 12, 2016 Report Share Posted October 12, 2016 Yes you can mount a switch behind the pedals in a TR3(A). This pic is taken upwards. My car is LHD. This one is taken from outside the car, on the LH side Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted October 12, 2016 Report Share Posted October 12, 2016 You will be able to swap the switch and not have to bleed if you take the cap off the reservoir and then cover the open top with cling film and an elastic band to prevent siphoning. You should be able to see on your switch if there is a copper washer between it and the fitting. Have you checked to make sure it is the switch thats faulty? Join the two connectors together at the switch and turn ignition on will show you if its the switch or not. The original light fittings did indeed rely on the mounting screws for earthing though and extra earth wont go amiss. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted October 12, 2016 Report Share Posted October 12, 2016 Hi Austin ~ This is how I fitted the brake light switch to my 3A. (I think the switch is from a BMW?). I wasn't happy with the original switch being so close to the exhaust system. Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jean Posted October 12, 2016 Report Share Posted October 12, 2016 On my 3A I did it in the same way as Tom did, works perfectly, but I'm not an originality fan This way it makes it easy to adjust as it's rather sensitive to work properly. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kiwifrog Posted October 12, 2016 Report Share Posted October 12, 2016 Hi Austin ~ This is how I fitted the brake light switch to my 3A. (I think the switch is from a BMW?). I wasn't happy with the original switch being so close to the exhaust system. Tom. IMG_1379.JPG I have also mounted a brake switch in the same way, mine was a cheapo citroen item but it works fine and only takes 20 minutes to install . The hydralic ones are a pain in the bum and they dont work very well being 50+years old now and the repro ones !!!!! cheers Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted October 12, 2016 Report Share Posted October 12, 2016 FWIW, my Saab 96 has the same hydraulic switch as the TR. 70s Saabs are a mix-match of Lucas and Hella parts. On the Saab, the hydraulic switch is mounted on the firewall. Guess what: in all those years (on two Saabs, one in the 80s and another one since 1998) these switches have never failed! Menno Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don H. Posted October 12, 2016 Report Share Posted October 12, 2016 A number of folks have reported shorter brake switch life with DOT5 brake fluid (silicone) than with DOT3/4 (glycol). What brake fluid are you running, Austin? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted October 12, 2016 Report Share Posted October 12, 2016 A number of folks have reported shorter brake switch life with DOT5 brake fluid (silicone) than with DOT3/4 (glycol). What brake fluid are you running, Austin? ^^^ this ^^^ Forgot about that, but I've heard/read that somewhere too! Apart from that, the position of the switch is awkward, to say the least. Heat, dirt, vibration and hard to reach when you need to replace it. I think that heat from the exhaust and dirt (wet!) from the road cause rapid temp changes. That will shorten the life of the switch as well, I suppose. Menno Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted October 12, 2016 Report Share Posted October 12, 2016 My original switch is now 61 years old, & still working fine ! Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted October 12, 2016 Report Share Posted October 12, 2016 Hi Austin, My switch is like Tom's. It's a quick and reliable fix and saves you having to break into the hydraulic brake circuit and it is an easy task to route the wires to the new switch position on the rear of the brake master cylinder 'box'. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David James Posted October 12, 2016 Report Share Posted October 12, 2016 I would be tempted to test to test your original switch in situ first for continuity when the brake pedal is applied to make sure you are not looking at a red herring! Good luck. David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
McMuttley Posted October 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2016 Thanks all This is what has arrived….. Rog – I will try and find where that diagram sits on the car, but I am assuming its front bulkhead adjacent to exhaust ?!? The switch behind the pedal looks a bit much for me to do, esp’ as I am doing this for the MoT and won't be worried about how many years it lasts Thanks Stu – two weeks ago the brake light came on, but then disappeared again – but I can find no obvious faulty connections. I will fit the new rear light plates and a proper earth at the weekend before challenging the bullet connectors in the wires and the switches again just in case. To test, do i leave the existing wires in place and just connect the two terminals ? I like the thought of the mechanical switch that Tom et al show, but not sure that I understand how its works ? What pushes the switch ? Also, do I just take the wires off the olde switch and stick them on the new one ? Also, my set up seems to be slightly different to Tom’s in that at the front end of my box in which the forking ends to the pushy rods sit, there are bolts (old pics) - but the bolts don't seem to be doing anything obvious (to me ) ps, Bob, I am pleased for you that at 61 years of age it still works Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don H. Posted October 13, 2016 Report Share Posted October 13, 2016 (edited) ...I like the thought of the mechanical switch that Tom et al show, but not sure that I understand how its works ? What pushes the switch ? Also, do I just take the wires off the olde switch and stick them on the new one ?... The spring-loaded switch "closes" when the brake pedal lever moves. (It's normally in the "open" position.) The more common mounting, IME, is to have it under the dash where it's protected and out of site. See Menno's photos for his example -- I can probably find others too, 'cause it's a fairly common mod over here. Edited October 13, 2016 by Don H. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted October 13, 2016 Report Share Posted October 13, 2016 (edited) Hi Austin, Take out the bolt that is behind the brake pedal and replace it with the mechanical switch. It is a switch that is normally closed circuit (i.e. on) but when you press it is opens the circuit, (i.e. switches off). You adjust the switch button so that when you press the brake pedal the back of the lever that sits in the forks of the master cylinder push rod, moves away from the switch allowing it to pop out under pressure from the spring inside the switch and hence completes the circuit and allows the brake lights to come on. When you take you foot off the brake pedal it all goes into reverse and the switch button is depressed which opens the contacts in the switch and turns the brake lights off. Simples! Rgds Ian Here is a link to a suitable switch: https://iapunitedkingdom.com/sku/61311368786/29/?adtype=%7Badtype%7D&gclid=Cj0KEQjw4fy_BRCX7b6rq_WZgI0BEiQAl78ndz2OnWIsShRuTXs7k5-DgTAV61-YK5uixtaYbMkrZ-caAnwx8P8HAQ Edited October 13, 2016 by Ian Vincent Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted October 13, 2016 Report Share Posted October 13, 2016 Austin, read my post #6 again carefully and it does tell you how to test the switch first before doing anything else. Just join the cables by the switch turn ignition on and see if the brake lights come on. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mart O Posted October 13, 2016 Report Share Posted October 13, 2016 (edited) Hi, I recently did a bit of rustproofing (Dinitrol) behind the rear arches in the dirt pocket behind the rear lights. Afterwards my brake lights no longer worked. Thought I may have disturbed wiring etc. not the case. I happened to be at a TR Register meeting and one of the group connected a spare wire direct to earth the earth terminal, all was OK. I think the self tappers which earth the light unit were just too fragile and perhaps the rustproofer provided some insulation? I simply put a self tapper screw, one size up from the old ones through the unit into the body, with a quick squirt of rust proofer lbehind and hey presto, all worked fine again. Are sure it's not just a simple earthing problem? Edited October 13, 2016 by Mart O Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted October 13, 2016 Report Share Posted October 13, 2016 Austin I like the expansion tank set up. Is it your manufacture or are they available ? H Quote Link to post Share on other sites
McMuttley Posted October 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2016 Hi H http://www.triumphspecialtuning.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=54&product_id=147 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted October 13, 2016 Report Share Posted October 13, 2016 Cheers H Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted October 14, 2016 Report Share Posted October 14, 2016 Love the TRE comment re expansion tank being as fitted to Ex-works cars etc.......maybe after they have done their thing to them but never in period! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
McMuttley Posted October 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2016 "ex-cluding works" ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.