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David James

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  1. Hi Eclem I might be able to help you out. I have had a quick look at a TR7 front subframe I have spare. I did not drag it out completely from its storage but it looks to be in good useable condition from what I could see. I live in Cambridgeshire England are you ever over this way for collection? I would rather not get involved with shipping etc. Regards David
  2. Your SD1 200 lb springs seem really short. I presume 200lb rate is not standard. From memory I had to cut quite a bit off the length of mine and they are currently 250mm! At the time of me playing around with my mods I did come across details of instances where the SD1 lower spring pan was cut off and a new spring pan repositioned and welded on. This may be the route for you to take? I also have what I believe are a pair of rear SD1 springs. Similar gauge springs to the fronts but 140mm overall diameter at 340mm overall length. Any use to you? Good luck. David
  3. Hi I modified SD1 front strut assemblies and rear axle to fit a 7 many years ago. The front springs are cut down standard SD1 finished length circa 250mm. This is shorter than the full extension of the strut so a restraint was fitted on the lower support pan to keep the spring correctly located. The diameter of the standard spring looks to be around 150mm overall diameter. I never got to use it on the road but the car sat ok with no obvious fouling issues.
  4. What happens if you put the car in first gear, keep your foot on the clutch and start the engine? Make sure you have a clear safe space in front of you just in case!
  5. Hi again From your earlier post I would think that if the fork is able to move the clutch about an inch after taking up free travel this should be more than enough to free it up for gear selection. Is the clutch plate free of grease/oils etc? The use of the correct gearbox oil is important otherwise selection is difficult. Normally recommended automatic transmission fluid. The gearbox has an internal pump. Can you supply a photo of the assembled bearing carrier etc? Better still a video of the slave cylinder doing its job. Looking at the Triumph parts catalogue the large Pivot Pin part no. UKC13 (V8) is actually shorter than the Pin Part no. UKC1774 (TR7). I have measured a TR7 Pivot Pin and it measures around 50mm overall length from the point of contact to the bell housing to the end of the spherical ball. As mentioned before the mechanism can work with the TR7 Pivot Pin so beware red herrings!
  6. And another thing to check. As already mentioned your photo clearly shows that the fork pins are no longer running in the correct groove on the bearing carrier. Have the two pins on clutch fork still got the little slipper pads fitted onto them before insertion into the the bearing carrier? They are small rectangular plates with a hole that locates on the two pins on the clutch fork. A real task to assemble all correctly at the same time as fitting the fork assembly onto the large single Pivot Pin/Post.
  7. Forgot to add the V8 SD1 engine and box was not factory original but a later DIY conversion hence the incorrect use of the TR7 Pivot Pin!
  8. Have you got got the correct length fork pivot pin for the V8 fitted to your gearbox as opposed to the srandard TR7? The V8 is a different part no. UKC13. If someone has taken a TR7 box to fit the V8 bellhousing and engine you need to change the pivot pin. This should give a better angle of attack on the thrust bearing and a longer throw. I think I got my PIvot Pin from Rimmer Bros. When I sourced my first V8 engine and manual box from a Rover SD1 the original owner had got round this problem by fitting a home made push rod. Yes it did work of a sort, but crude, and meant the fork did not move correctly to apply pressure to the thrust bearing at the correct angle. Worth an investigation. Good luck. David
  9. David James

    Fuel gauge

    Hi Pinky Did you manage to source a fuel gauge for your friend? Let me know if not and I will try and hunt down in my loft for you. If hunting is successful then no charge. Donation to a charity of your choice. Cheers David
  10. Pretty sure that the thread is 5/16" UNC. Looks similar to M8 but definitely not the same.
  11. Great find. Put my name down on the list. David
  12. From memory the three connection oil pressure switch on the Rover SD1 etc is used to indicate low oil pressure but also acts as a safety device in an accident when the engine stops and the ignition is left on. The switch senses no oil pressure when the engine stops and cuts the power to the fuel pump. When starting the engine power is fed to the pump via the switch fed from the starer solenoid. As soon as the starer is released the pump will continue to be powered and the engine run if there is enough oil pressure , or if no oil pressure, the pump will not get power. ie. not run the pump. Having wired X2 TR7 V8s of mine in the past, on one I added wiring to the 7 harness to be able to have the three connection safety facility of no oil pressure, no feed to the fuel pump, and on the other fitted the single terminal switch using just one connection as standard TR7. Hope this helps? Regards David
  13. The normal method of dragging the engine and box out upwards has always been a curse for me. I have removed the engine and box in the usual manner many times. I always seem to catch/damage something. I am sure I have seen pictures of the factory fitting complete subframe with engines and gearboxes by dropping the body on top. Effectively no different to what you are suggesting really, just upside down. I have used this method to remove the complete subframe and suspension assembly out of my 7 V8 although minus engine and gearbox which I had removed by the usual method. With all components disconnected as necessary I slackened the subframe bolts, gearbox mounts and removed suspension mounting nuts at the top of the suspension towers. I attached the engine hoist to the front bumper mounting points and lifted the shell enough to start to take the weight of the engine /box assy. Subframe bolts and gearbox mountings removed, support rear of gearbox. I had the front wheels still attached. Continue to lift the body. Once high enough I propped the shell on old wheels to remove the hoist and gain access in order to drag the subframe out on a dolly. Alternatively if you have some burly mates they can take a wheel arch each and wheel the shell backwards out of the way. Good luck. David
  14. If my memory serves me correctly the seat screws require a torx style male fitting to undo them. No idea why allen socket head screws were not used. David
  15. Wait until you receive your infa red temperature sensor. Brilliant tool. Check the temp. on the rad., temp. sensor fitting and heater connection. if your temp. gauge is correct then I would be thinking poor flow/heat dissipation, radiator, blockage - collapsed hose, pump U/S etc. or a big air lock. Wild shot but has your Offenhauser manifold been plumbed in correctly to pump heater etc.? Does the water boil? I have instances of high temperatures due to air locks. Usually cured after running the engine a while and topping up the header tank. Any photos of under your bonnet? Good luck David
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