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David James

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About David James

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    Cambridgeshire

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  1. Sounds like a big air lock to me. I have resorted in the past to pressurising the master cylinder reservoir with a low pressure air line and a wheel cylinder bleed nipple undone. The fluid from the m/c should be forced through with any air that might be present. Repeat on all wheel cylinders. You will need to modify a reservoir cap to fit an air line. Careful with the pressure, if the pressure is released quickly brake fluid is blown all over the place! David
  2. Hi Steve Bad news I have found the manifold but no carbs! No Idea what happened to those. Sorry to get your expectations raised. Regards David
  3. Unable to send PM to your address! Steve Just noticed your reply. I will have a look in my workshop tomorrow to see I can bring the carbs to light and see if suitable. Regards David
  4. Can I offer you another pair of carbs from a 7 I have that are surplus to requirements? I have a pair lying around I no longer need since going down the V8 route.. Without looking at them I do not know whether they are the same set up, I would need to check. Currently on an inlet manifold. David
  5. Hi Eclem I might be able to help you out. I have had a quick look at a TR7 front subframe I have spare. I did not drag it out completely from its storage but it looks to be in good useable condition from what I could see. I live in Cambridgeshire England are you ever over this way for collection? I would rather not get involved with shipping etc. Regards David
  6. Your SD1 200 lb springs seem really short. I presume 200lb rate is not standard. From memory I had to cut quite a bit off the length of mine and they are currently 250mm! At the time of me playing around with my mods I did come across details of instances where the SD1 lower spring pan was cut off and a new spring pan repositioned and welded on. This may be the route for you to take? I also have what I believe are a pair of rear SD1 springs. Similar gauge springs to the fronts but 140mm overall diameter at 340mm overall length. Any use to you? Good luck. David
  7. Hi I modified SD1 front strut assemblies and rear axle to fit a 7 many years ago. The front springs are cut down standard SD1 finished length circa 250mm. This is shorter than the full extension of the strut so a restraint was fitted on the lower support pan to keep the spring correctly located. The diameter of the standard spring looks to be around 150mm overall diameter. I never got to use it on the road but the car sat ok with no obvious fouling issues.
  8. What happens if you put the car in first gear, keep your foot on the clutch and start the engine? Make sure you have a clear safe space in front of you just in case!
  9. Hi again From your earlier post I would think that if the fork is able to move the clutch about an inch after taking up free travel this should be more than enough to free it up for gear selection. Is the clutch plate free of grease/oils etc? The use of the correct gearbox oil is important otherwise selection is difficult. Normally recommended automatic transmission fluid. The gearbox has an internal pump. Can you supply a photo of the assembled bearing carrier etc? Better still a video of the slave cylinder doing its job. Looking at the Triumph parts catalogue the large Pivot Pin part no. UKC13 (V8) is actually shorter than the Pin Part no. UKC1774 (TR7). I have measured a TR7 Pivot Pin and it measures around 50mm overall length from the point of contact to the bell housing to the end of the spherical ball. As mentioned before the mechanism can work with the TR7 Pivot Pin so beware red herrings!
  10. And another thing to check. As already mentioned your photo clearly shows that the fork pins are no longer running in the correct groove on the bearing carrier. Have the two pins on clutch fork still got the little slipper pads fitted onto them before insertion into the the bearing carrier? They are small rectangular plates with a hole that locates on the two pins on the clutch fork. A real task to assemble all correctly at the same time as fitting the fork assembly onto the large single Pivot Pin/Post.
  11. Forgot to add the V8 SD1 engine and box was not factory original but a later DIY conversion hence the incorrect use of the TR7 Pivot Pin!
  12. Have you got got the correct length fork pivot pin for the V8 fitted to your gearbox as opposed to the srandard TR7? The V8 is a different part no. UKC13. If someone has taken a TR7 box to fit the V8 bellhousing and engine you need to change the pivot pin. This should give a better angle of attack on the thrust bearing and a longer throw. I think I got my PIvot Pin from Rimmer Bros. When I sourced my first V8 engine and manual box from a Rover SD1 the original owner had got round this problem by fitting a home made push rod. Yes it did work of a sort, but crude, and meant the fork did not move correctly to apply pressure to the thrust bearing at the correct angle. Worth an investigation. Good luck. David
  13. David James

    Fuel gauge

    Hi Pinky Did you manage to source a fuel gauge for your friend? Let me know if not and I will try and hunt down in my loft for you. If hunting is successful then no charge. Donation to a charity of your choice. Cheers David
  14. Pretty sure that the thread is 5/16" UNC. Looks similar to M8 but definitely not the same.
  15. Great find. Put my name down on the list. David
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