stuart Posted July 31, 2016 Report Share Posted July 31, 2016 Hello, lots of ideas on front brake pads, what is the view on rear shoes to complement the, I assume, better clamping force of the Hawk pads on the front, cheers, Andrew I have 10" rear Alfin drums with OE asbestos shoes which helps a lot. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DOG_MORGAN Posted August 5, 2016 Report Share Posted August 5, 2016 Where can you get mintex pads please thanks billy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Moltu Posted August 5, 2016 Report Share Posted August 5, 2016 Ebay - search for "MGB633 1144" Beg to differ with those that say pad material doesn't make much difference. Back in the day had to take to the hard shoulder as a set of Moprod pads in my mother's Metro simply didn't stop the car. Had that same feeling when I put a set of greensnot in the 6 a couple of years ago and these were also jettisoned for a better quality pad (1144 which do stop the car) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted August 5, 2016 Report Share Posted August 5, 2016 (edited) Â Â Â So many seek "better brakes" and blame the material, when the hydraulics should be considered, before the tyres which are the ultimate decider on stopping. Â JOhn And consider suspension improvements. Lowered ride height ( CoG) will increase the deceleration achievable before tyres lock up. Stiffer springs reduce the nosedive effect on wheel attitude and tyre contact patch area. Low-compliance w/b bushes also help ensure the toe-in stays true ensuring the tyre keeps adhesion, not sliding. And I can still lock up the fronts with standard brakes and either 195 or 205 tyres. The car now feels as if it just 'squats' under heavy braking, the nosedive sensation has gone, thankfully. Now the only problem is potholes... Peter Edited August 5, 2016 by Peter Cobbold Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Moltu Posted August 6, 2016 Report Share Posted August 6, 2016 Now Mikey you might have mentioned the championship regs didn't allow vented 4 pots.? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted August 6, 2016 Report Share Posted August 6, 2016 (edited) Now Mikey you might have mentioned the championship regs didn't allow vented 4 pots.? Aha, you fell into the trap. The point I was making was that if a standard disc, calliper and road going pad is good enough for a 10 lap balls out race they certainly are for a road going TR. Also competition pads WERE allowed but I didn't get a benefit or use them until after 3 seasons and my Tuned 4 cylinder car reached it's zenith of development before I moved into the modified class. Â Mick Richards Edited August 6, 2016 by Motorsport Mickey Quote Link to post Share on other sites
simonjrwinter Posted August 7, 2016 Report Share Posted August 7, 2016 I put 4 pot calipers and larger vented and slotted discs on my car. They were originally from a track day car. When I first drove the car I was disappointed that when I first braked, they felt exactly the same as bog standard brakes. However, when you REALLY need to brake hard, they REALLY stop you. All in all, pretty pleased with them as they offer the best of both worlds (to me anyway) Â Simon Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peter clarke Posted August 8, 2016 Report Share Posted August 8, 2016 4 x pots on the front and larger cylinders in the back {morgan +8} work very well with std discs and drums. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TriumphV8 Posted August 8, 2016 Report Share Posted August 8, 2016 If you increase cylinders surface on the brake cylinders you will reduce required brake force on the pedal and extend the pedal travel to get the brakes work. -Simply a transmission- Â There is nothing bad with that except that under race conditions the time needed to make that travel is lost and the car is moving several metres before brakes work. Its called swell time. Â If you want short travel of the pedal you have to go the opposite way: It needs larger master cylinder instead biger slave cylinders and to achieve the nice lower brake forces ad a bigger brake booster. Â Very simple, that is the way all modern cars go, easy to see if you open the bonnet and take a look into the engine compartment. 10" boosters are pretty normal and even larger ones are in use! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted August 8, 2016 Report Share Posted August 8, 2016 (edited) If you increase cylinders surface on the brake cylinders you will reduce required brake force on the pedal and extend the pedal travel to get the brakes work. -Simply a transmission-  There is nothing bad with that except that under race conditions the time needed to make that travel is lost and the car is moving several metres before brakes work. Its called swell time.  If you want short travel of the pedal you have to go the opposite way: It needs larger master cylinder instead biger slave cylinders and to achieve the nice lower brake forces ad a bigger brake booster.  Very simple, that is the way all modern cars go, easy to see if you open the bonnet and take a look into the engine compartment. 10" boosters are pretty normal and even larger ones are in use! Nicely explained Andreas It's the ratio of the area of the master cylinder to the area of the Pistons of the calipers/cylinders that determines travel.  I have 4pot calipers and pedal travel is a little long. I tested a 1" master cylinder to offset this, it did but pedal effort was too high. I've not tried a bigger servo, and probably won't as am happy with the setup, but that is indeed the next logical step.  Steve Edited August 8, 2016 by SDerbyshire Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TriumphV8 Posted August 8, 2016 Report Share Posted August 8, 2016 Thanks Steve, just to add that this modern brake boosters came up with ABS because the chance to lock the brakes rises a bit when the pedal force becomes that easy. Â So if in case of emergency the ABS will keep the car on the road where we with the big boosters should be aware not to pull the pedal with all the force we have to keep tings under control ..... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted August 8, 2016 Report Share Posted August 8, 2016 (edited) #23 "standard discs and calipers without a servo AND roadgoing pad material (admittedly a set of pads a race). Once you can stop the wheel turning you don't need any better brakes, then it's all down to the tyre grip. "  #36 "where we with the big boosters should be aware not to pull the pedal with all the force we have to keep tings under control ....." "not to pull the pedal with all the force we have" for any of you driving gods out there who can do this please show me how, in an emergency situation you WILL lock the tyres and lose braking affect. Mick Richards  Edited August 8, 2016 by Motorsport Mickey Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted August 8, 2016 Report Share Posted August 8, 2016 (edited) ^ My eyes have gone all funny. Edited August 8, 2016 by peejay4A Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Moltu Posted August 10, 2016 Report Share Posted August 10, 2016 Mick's taken up calligraphy. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
alan atkinson Posted August 10, 2016 Report Share Posted August 10, 2016 You did the Morgan rear cylinder upgrade already I assume? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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