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Yesterday I experienced a partial meltdown on my electrics, I had just replaced some instrument bulbs with led's and tested that they all worked and was trying to locate the bridge on the studs on one of the gages when I was enveloped in white smoke so quickly removed the earth from the battery but by then the damage was done. The damage seem to be contained in the part of the loom which runs from the solenoid through the bulkhead to the back of the instruments and seem to have started on some black wires which have been used to earth the instruments (my loom doesn't always agree with the colour coding on the chart). The additional problem is that the car is stuck on my steep drive blocking my everyday car and there is no possibility of pushing it out of the way, I have two questions.

 

Can anyone recommend anyone in my area (South Bucks) who could fix my car

 

I could shift the car using the starter motor but of course all the electrics are dead I did try connecting jump leads from the battery direct to the starter motor but the leads couldn't take the load, is there a way I could do a temporary connection to the ignition switch and turn the car over.

 

Thanks in frustration and shame

 

Chris

 

The brown cable which runs from the solenoid has be severed

Edited by riverstar
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Hi Chris,

if you were to cut the damaged wires to isolate them would that stop the car from running.

 

You could jury rig +12V direct to the coil.

Remove the fan belt and disconnect the alternator

 

Start the engine using the rubber button on the solenoid.

 

Move the car and shut the engine down - no water pump.

 

Roger

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Why bother to remove fan belt ? just pull wires off the alternator, the brown wire from solenoid is already cut, so just need to jump from bat 12V to coil, & as Roger says press rubber button on solenoid to start. MOve car out of the way, then disconnect the link wire to coil to stop the engine.

 

Bob.

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Hi you could try http://www.jyclassics.co.uk

 

ATB Graham

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Roger/Lebro, The button on my solenoid seems to be locked solid is there another way?

 

Graham, JY Classics was the first people I called as they only a few miles away unfortunately they haven't called back yet

 

It is so frustrating as I have just returned from four months in Phnom Penh where apart from dreaming of a decent pint I also dreamed of all the glorious spring runs I would be taking

 

Chris

 

STOP PRESS

 

JY picking it up tomorrow morning I think that I will ask them to fit a new solenoid as well

Edited by riverstar
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Problem is you might not be able to see visually all the damage done to the loom.

 

That was a fairly hefty short by the sound of things. Perhaps you can tow it to a place where you can work on it properly, then strip back the insulation to see how far the damage has gone.

 

Btw, Autosparks will re-cover the loom, in proper period braiding or pvc, whichever for around £1.50 per metre or so, which will enable a neat repair but may charged extra to replace smoked wiring,but may be cheaper than a new one. Obviously you'd have to remove it for repair.

Edited by boxofbits
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The button on the solenoid was fixed solid so it would not press and engage the starter as a safety feature, to stop people who had left their cars in gear from starting and then running themselves over.

 

There was a different part number for this type of solenoid if it is the square body type.

 

It is useful to have the starter tit for edging the engine over when doing points, tappets, priming after oil change checking compressions. etc

 

 

Peter W

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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Roger/Lebro, The button on my solenoid seems to be locked solid is there another way?of a decent pint I also dreamed of all the glorious spring runs I would be taking

 

Chris

 

hold a short length of wire (can be quite thin) between the top big terminal on the solenoid, & the small terminal (remove the white / red wire first)

This should engauge the solenoid. If that fails then, crude, but just place a spanner (or other thickish metal part across the two big terms, there will be sparks, but the starter should turn over.

 

Bob.

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The thick brown wire is the one which goes to the ammeter, I think, if you shorted one of the ammeter terminals to the earth which is on the bridge then the black wires took a lot of current.

You can get to the ammeter with the ashtray out and radio out. Those black wires also link to the other gauges for earth. Someone else can probably confirm but I don't think the brown wire is fused so that could explain it being burnt through, Need to get the bit of loom where it runs unwrapped, damage could be mainly to brown & black wires but a visual check is required to be sure.

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If JY are up to snuff then I would say they would recommend the fitting of a new loom anyway.I know I would.

Stuart.

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Bad luck Chris. I know it's a bit late now but it is always best to disconnect the battery when doing any work on the electrics, particularly when fiddling around behind the dash when you can't see what you are doing.

 

Tim

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