John L Posted April 13, 2016 Report Share Posted April 13, 2016 I have broken a drill bit in a bolt that had sheared off flush on a cylinder block that I was trying to get out(not a TR) Goog.....lin the problem and there is a item in the USA that claims that it can even drill into an eziout, has anybody seen a supplier in the UK for this item, there are some interesting videos, if you put in the heading Rescue bit. What other alternatives are there? Unfortunately its not a very big bolt, 8mm but its sure well and truly stuck in the hole. If I heat it will it soften the drill bit and be able to drill it out? Any help would be very much appreciated! John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted April 13, 2016 Report Share Posted April 13, 2016 Hi John, you won't soften the drill enough to help. A stellite drill may work but they don;t like shocks - and the flutes of the drill may cause more problems. In aerospace we use spark erosion quite lot for this situation Very precise and fairly quick. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AndrewP Posted April 14, 2016 Report Share Posted April 14, 2016 Personally Id be tempted to remove the block and get it to an engineering shop that can help.I wouldnt mess too much however unless you are willing to risk the block being scrap if you mess it up. But....Ive seen someone use an arc welder with a plain cold drawn mild steel rod in (you can try the standard MMA rods as well, but harder to see with the flux on the outside), and a quick zap to fuse the end of the rod to the top of a broken drill bit to get it out. BFH to hitting upwards to get it out worked. Another method to try is use a dremel and carefully grind it away with a diamond bit. Takes FOREVER but does work If you do manage to get it out...Cobalt left handed drill works wonders Ive found. A bit of heat from mister OxyAcet also helps. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graham Posted April 14, 2016 Report Share Posted April 14, 2016 (edited) John I have never tried this only read about it on another forum similar to this, and the solution involved using a hammer and pin punch on the flutes of the piece of jammed drill bit to basically disintegrate it piece by piece and trying to 'unscrew' the dill bit. I've also seen a Youtube video where they cut the thread of a bolt, clamped the head of the bolt into the rod holder of an arc welder and positioned the fresh cut end against the stuck bolt, then switched the welder on and fused the bolt to the broken stud in the block ( bolt has to be smaller than the stud you are trying to get out otherwise you weld the whole lot to the block !) but as Andrew says the risk is that you will bu**er it up and have to take it to an engineering shop anyway by which time you have made the situation worse. ATB Graham Edited April 14, 2016 by Graham Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted April 14, 2016 Report Share Posted April 14, 2016 John, Unless the block is a common and cheap one, there's only one answer - as Roger said, take it to a specialist and get it spark eroded. Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graham Posted April 14, 2016 Report Share Posted April 14, 2016 Some really interesting comments at the end of this video………..common sense really but until I saw this I would have reached for the easy out myself ! ATB Graham Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted April 14, 2016 Report Share Posted April 14, 2016 You have already made this worse than it needed to be. There is a much better kind of extractor for this job which don't break off easiy but if they do you can drill them out. There are two ways now, TIG welding and spark-erosion niether of which you can probably do. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted April 14, 2016 Report Share Posted April 14, 2016 You have already made this worse than it needed to be. There is a much better kind of extractor for this job which don't break off easiy but if they do you can drill them out. There are two ways now, TIG welding and spark-erosion niether of which you can probably do. Alan, you've posted previously about parallel flute stud extractors, but where can they be bought? Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted April 15, 2016 Report Share Posted April 15, 2016 Hi Pete, not sure of the quality http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Teng-TMSE05S-Screw-Bolt-Extractor-Set-5pc-Straight-Flute-Case-3mm-4mm-5mm-7mm-9m-/141611077483?hash=item20f8ad8f6b:g:W0IAAOSwEeFVDEMU Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Larnder Posted April 15, 2016 Report Share Posted April 15, 2016 Roger The name TENG suggests it is Chinese and from my experience with Chinese tools, I wouldn´t touch them with a barge pole. Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted April 15, 2016 Report Share Posted April 15, 2016 Hi Dave, you may find that your barge pole is Chinese. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mike3md Posted April 15, 2016 Report Share Posted April 15, 2016 Teng are Swedish. http://www.tengtools.com/ Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graham Posted April 15, 2016 Report Share Posted April 15, 2016 Roger The name TENG suggests it is Chinese and from my experience with Chinese tools, I wouldn´t touch them with a barge pole. Dave Dave nicked from the Teng web site 'Only Teng Tools offers Swedish design and dependability of Taiwanese production at costs competitive enough to please price conscious professional users all over the world' so I guess ya pays ya money ya takes ya choice………….. but I have a couple of their combination ratchet spanners and have to say the quality of these, at least, is very good. ATB Graham Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DaveN Posted April 15, 2016 Report Share Posted April 15, 2016 Take a sharp punch to the broken drill bit and with judicious use of a hammer attempt to tap it anticlockwise to loosen it. You may find fairly easy to loosen. Another option if you have a compressor and which I have used on 1/4 bolts is a high speed die grinder. You need something that spins at 22k rpm or more. Available on the bay for not a lot of cash. There are some battery ones but I find them a bit unwieldy. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DaveN Posted April 15, 2016 Report Share Posted April 15, 2016 FWIW we have those Teng tools at work and they are upto the task!! But like most cutting tools ( yep cutting because they cut into the errant bolt/ stud) get rid of them as soon as the edges get distressed. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul Down Posted April 15, 2016 Report Share Posted April 15, 2016 Hi Dave, you may find that your barge pole is Chinese. Roger Very drole! :) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted April 15, 2016 Report Share Posted April 15, 2016 I have some doubt about the design of the Teng extractors; I have one of their ratchets and the quality seems very good, but those extractors are tapered so might wedge the stud in the hole as they're tapped in. I think these are the ones that AlanT uses: http://www.ridgidtoolsdirect.com/product.php/75/ridgid_no_10_screw_extractor_set but they certainly ain't cheap! If you were wondering why I'm interested, I snapped the rearmost manifold stud when refitting the manifolds in 1989, and I've been meaning to replace it ever since! Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted April 16, 2016 Report Share Posted April 16, 2016 I got a set from Amazon last year. American manufacture look very good quality, but I have not had to use them yet luckily. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Larnder Posted April 16, 2016 Report Share Posted April 16, 2016 Mike and Graham I stand corrected on the name of the designers, but it is the manufacturers that worry me, after all we know how good the Chinese are at copying things. Chinese, drills taps, dies and files are of the type "use once and through away" ask me how I know. I am starting the removal of the apron today, plus what is behind it over the next few days to get at the oil seal in the timing casing. Am a little anxious about the timing chains and the tensioner until I get to see them. No Indian or Chinese parts there for me, only the best are good enough for that job if only for the time insurance value, so as not to have to do it all again 1000 miles down the road. If they are suspect, then I shall be on to "The Chain Man" smartish. ( not chop chop Roger!) Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted April 16, 2016 Report Share Posted April 16, 2016 I have some doubt about the design of the Teng extractors; I have one of their ratchets and the quality seems very good, but those extractors are tapered so might wedge the stud in the hole as they're tapped in. I think these are the ones that AlanT uses: http://www.ridgidtoolsdirect.com/product.php/75/ridgid_no_10_screw_extractor_set but they certainly ain't cheap! If you were wondering why I'm interested, I snapped the rearmost manifold stud when refitting the manifolds in 1989, and I've been meaning to replace it ever since! Pete Thats the same as the SnapOn ones I have, much safer to use. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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