JohnRoberts Posted September 2, 2015 Report Share Posted September 2, 2015 Hi this is my first time on the forum. I just bought front and rear wheel arch liners.Has anybody got any tips on fitting. Regards John Roberts Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted September 2, 2015 Report Share Posted September 2, 2015 Hi John, Welcome to the forum. Good idea, liners... made my own and was not fussed about drilling the inner wings etc so better you wait for a more professional reply ! But I can recommend brushing a good thick layer or two of waxoyl, especially along seams, before putting them in place. Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted September 3, 2015 Report Share Posted September 3, 2015 (edited) Hi John, there are various ways of fitting them. You can rivet then on - half dozen pop rivets equally spaced. Or use rivnuts so they can be removed easily. Or you could glue them into position. I use a fairly weak bathroom mastic and clip the two lower ends with upholstery clips. Coating the inside of the enclosed wing area with Waxoyl gives added protection. But the liners are very effective in keeping the washer spray out. Roger PS - Welcome to the forum. Edited September 3, 2015 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnRoberts Posted September 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2015 Hi Roger Thanks for the reply, do you fit them snug inside the wing flange with the rubber strip. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted September 3, 2015 Report Share Posted September 3, 2015 Hi John, yes, I did on mine. I used a rubber section that was about 1" or so wide with a groove in one edge to take the liner and the other edge was tapered to a point. I bought the Revington liners many years ago and can't remember if the rubber came with them. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted September 3, 2015 Report Share Posted September 3, 2015 (edited) Hi John, yes, I did on mine. I used a rubber section that was about 1" or so wide with a groove in one edge to take the liner and the other edge was tapered to a point. I bought the Revington liners many years ago and can't remember if the rubber came with them. Roger They do Roger.http://www.revingtontr.com/shop/Collection_Display.asp?mscssid=SE37T54SRT238KH8EPFB771LLF9X0R89&CarType=TR6&CID=877 Edited September 3, 2015 by ntc Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jean Posted September 3, 2015 Report Share Posted September 3, 2015 I'm not such a big fan of this kind of liners, maybe if you use your car on dirt tracks and can remove them for cleaning. The point is that moisture gets in whatever you do, and will stay there for a longer time than normal.. Good ventilation in the wing areas is paramount.... after having washed them out with a water hose. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jerrytr5 Posted September 3, 2015 Report Share Posted September 3, 2015 It's not the moisture that's the problem Jean, but the mud that holds the moisture sticking to all those crevices and seams. I removed my liners for inspection after 12 years use - not a spot of mud, water or corrosion. If you religiously jet wash under each wing everytime you come back from a drive, probably you don't need them. Back to the original post: I designed them to be fitted with ally pop rivets because it is easy. Only needs three or four to hold each liner as they 'spring' into position and are nearly self supporting. Others have cunningly glued them on using mastic type products. If you are drilling, don't forget the wiring loom runs over the top of one of the inner rear wheelarches - avoid. Don't forget to extend the plenum drain tubes and fit something from the bonnet channel drainage hole that otherwise drops water onto the sill area. Jerry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted September 3, 2015 Report Share Posted September 3, 2015 (edited) Hi Jean, I agree with Jerry, Keeping moisture out is very difficult but the big problem is buckets of water and mud. This builds up and never dries out properly. Peter C mention that before fitting the liner coat the inside with waxoyl. This keeps the affects of moisture to an absolute minimum. Mine have been on since 2000 and not a spot of rust or mud - completely clean. Hi Neil, thanks for that. I knew I got the rubber from somewhere without any hassle Roger Edited September 3, 2015 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
graeme Posted September 3, 2015 Report Share Posted September 3, 2015 I concur, my TR4A has had the liners since 2001 with no sign of any corrosion. I am looking to get a set for my TR250 and Moss are considerably cheaper than Revingtons. Does Jerry know if the Moss items are the same as his design sold by Revingtons? Cheers Graeme Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnRoberts Posted September 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2015 I got mine from Moss, the instructions say trim to fit, they made from GRP quite thin. Looks too easy to cut too much off. Have had a trial fit, working up to start cutting. John R Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jerrytr5 Posted September 4, 2015 Report Share Posted September 4, 2015 Graeme, Revingtons are the originals, cut to shape for each model (4/4A, 5 or 6), and come with the rubber seal which goes between the outer wing and the liner. I suspect (but don't know) that all the others are bootleg copies without the seal. When I made them, the rubber seal cost almost as much as the GRP so anyone wishing to reduce final cost would delete that item and leave it to the customer. John, I can only speak for mine, but they should be a pretty close fit and only need final fettling with coarse production paper. You shouldn't need to cut, and if you do it means it's a one size fits all which is why it's cheaper and will take longer to fit. If you are cutting, a jigsaw with abrasive blade is best, but do take appropriate dust safety precautions. Jerry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnRoberts Posted September 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2015 Thanks to all for the very helpful information. As an aside as any body painted the rear panel (normally matt black) body colour. John R Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted September 4, 2015 Report Share Posted September 4, 2015 (edited) The Revington ones as per Jerry`s design are the best ones as the others are very floppy and can crack with heavy stone impacts. The Revington ones do take a bit of fettling as I dont think their production methods are as careful as they should be. I always give them a coat of stone chip and paint on the visible side and fit with Rivnuts to allow for easy removal. Stuart. Edited September 4, 2015 by stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
WELLSY Posted September 4, 2015 Report Share Posted September 4, 2015 John, Made my own from sheets of plastic I obtained from work,. No idea what plastic it is but its flexible and impact resistant . Fixed mine with plastic number plate nut and bolts around the arch, no problem with rust! Sprayed with some sort of stonegaurd. Butted up to wings with the same section of seal as on the baffle plate, works very well . wellsy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jean Posted September 5, 2015 Report Share Posted September 5, 2015 I fully agree that it's the mud sticking under the wings Don't tell me.. when I purchased my 6 in 73 it was used on Ardenne roads for 2 winters in a rather muddy and salty environment. 2 years later I took the wings off and removed around 10 pound of wet salt and mud, as you know salt doesn't dry out quickly . Early 90th I had 4 new wings fitted and had small lips welded inside the wings to take liners, but I never used them. As I, and most of us use the cars mostly on rather clean roads I prefer to keep the underside clean and dry with a water jet and no liners. I can see that those rallying, sometimes on unpaved surfaces have an advantage with liners. If you see, in spite of being fitted with baffle plates and seals, how much dirt is collecting in the front wings on a 6, it's obvious that liners are only a part solution. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aardvark Posted September 7, 2015 Report Share Posted September 7, 2015 Hello all. I've just taken my nearside front liner off for the first time since owning the car (they were on when I bought it). Expecting to be shocked by what I might find I can, however, gladly report that all is very good indeed! The liner, quite a rigid plastic/fiberglass, completely seals the area much better than I was expecting and the underside of the sheet metal is very clean - even the waxoil is clean! All is not perfect though..... The PO has fixed the liners to the lower outside edge of the wheel arch. This means that the top most edge of the liner (above the top of the tyre) is very nearly at the same height as the wing. Now my car has a lean towards the nearside front so that the top of the tyre is only an inch below the liner. If I go too fast over bumpy roads the tyre hits the liner.... slight banging noise, possible burning rubber smell, and ringing ears as SWMBO gently reminds me that I need to replace my saggy springs soon. Cheers Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard71 Posted September 15, 2018 Report Share Posted September 15, 2018 Old topic revival.... I've just received a full set of wheel arch protectors from Revinton TR and slipped one into place on the off-side rear. The fit seems too good to be true. Along with fitting instructions Revington have enclosed some photographs which appear to show the liner contacting the curvature of the arch itself, or the pic could be a little unclear. I've attached front & rear pics of how my liner is sitting (temporarily), is this correct? Regards, Richard. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jerrytr5 Posted September 15, 2018 Report Share Posted September 15, 2018 Crikey that's an old post. Of course it fits, I used a TR6 to mould it from. However wings do vary so it will need adjusting. Assuming Neil is still supplying the same rubber seal you will need to adjust the liner so that you have sufficient clearance. About 5 - 8mm should do it, but check first as the seal may have changed over the years. The bits with tight curvature are tricky, but you could always fill in any gaps with silicone. Jerry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard71 Posted September 15, 2018 Report Share Posted September 15, 2018 Thanks Jerry, and many thanks for taking the time to form the original moulds. The liner in the pics I posted fitted without any trimming what so ever (off side rear), absolute doddle! However, things didn't go so well on the near side, after much fettling it cracked right on the apex of the curve (I'll blame my mate who was lending a hand), I may try a repair or may have to order a replacement. Will tackle the front wings next week. Richard. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bill Bourne Posted September 17, 2018 Report Share Posted September 17, 2018 The Revington ones as per Jerry`s design are the best ones as the others are very floppy and can crack with heavy stone impacts. The Revington ones do take a bit of fettling as I dont think their production methods are as careful as they should be. I always give them a coat of stone chip and paint on the visible side and fit with Rivnuts to allow for easy removal. Stuart. I got mine from Moss, the instructions say trim to fit, they made from GRP quite thin. Looks too easy to cut too much off. Have had a trial fit, working up to start cutting. John R I agree with Stuart - and have fitted them to a TR5 recently. Made up some brackets, then fitted with Rivnuts / painted in stone chip, then top coated. Have a look at my blog on what i did to fit. I wanted the option to take them off easily if I needed to. Others have done it differently. They do take quite a bit of fettling to get a good fit. Get a good file - offer up, mark, take a bit off/ again and again. I also didn't use the supplied rubbers, as I thought they had a flap that was too small. I used a larger flap type from Woolies. Only on the inside, so as to allow air to circulate. Plus I also used double sided close foam tape on the inside ridge, so as to stop any chaffing of the paint. https://www.tr-register.co.uk/rebuilders-diary/2018/03/0123/TR5-Patience-Rebuild-Chapter-17-December-2017-to-February-2018 Hope that helps Best Bill Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard71 Posted September 17, 2018 Report Share Posted September 17, 2018 Excellent pics Bill, thanks for posting them. In addition to the rubber seal, at the inside edge of the liner, I sealed it with Tiger Seal (Sikoflex) I'll post pics next time the wheel is off, is this a bad, good or indifferent idea. I also fastened it to the wheel arch with rivets all the way around, maybe 5 or six, I notice that you don't have so many. This is something I'm concerned about when fitting the front liners as the rivets will be visible in the engine bay, is only one at each end of the liner required? Richard. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted September 18, 2018 Report Share Posted September 18, 2018 Richard you wont ever be able to remove them now as youve used Sikaflex (Thats for bonded windscreens) I fit mine with rivnuts and machine screws so you can remove if required. For the front I fit a small bracket with a rivnut to the inner face of the floor drop section and two more rivnuts in the lower inner wing face and then one further rivnut in the lower front end of the wheel arch. For the rears I fit two rivnuts in the lower rear lip of the wheel arch and one in the top (be careful of the rear loom that runs over the left hand arch) and one in the forward lower lip of the arch. If you trim them carefully so there is an even 5-8mm gap all the way round then the supplied rubber works fine to seal (Always waxoyl behind anyway before fitting) FWIW I always stone chip and paint the liners on the lower (wheel) side, that way they not only look like they should be there but also it will protect them from starring damage due to stone damage. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard71 Posted September 18, 2018 Report Share Posted September 18, 2018 Thanks for the excellent advice & photos Stuart, I'll certainly use your method for the front liners. Any recommendations of which imperial rivnut gun/tool to purchase, keeping in mind that it'll be used infrquently? Richard. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted September 18, 2018 Report Share Posted September 18, 2018 Unfortunately you struggle to find one in this country in Imperial (expensive too) but this isnt too dear.https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rivnut-Insert-Installation-Tool-Nutsert-Rivet-Riveter-40-SAE-Riv-nut-Inserts/252452898035?hash=item3ac75d84f3:g:DaQAAOSwgY9Xfkm5 Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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