2long Posted January 6, 2015 Report Share Posted January 6, 2015 Next project is fitting a hood I got from Robbins in about 1993 and never installed. It has the single window and the material still seems new and supple. One problem is that the clear window material has developed some faint brownish spots that don't seem to wipe off. Another is that the webbing on my hood sticks is long gone. So, two questions: 1) How hard is it to change out the rear window (it is put in with a heat seam, not stitches); and 2) can someone give me a photo of the web fixings at the forward most part of the hood sticks and at the rear most part behind the capping rail. I want to see how the ends are finished. Thanks, and Cheers! Dan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted January 6, 2015 Report Share Posted January 6, 2015 (edited) Hi Dan, I suggest that you talk to Robbins about a replacement window. You could try Starbrite Mildew remover, could be staining from the tissue paper usually between the window and the hood fabric to prevent scratching. Here's a pic of the rear webbing ends are heated and melt fused. each attached by a plate with two screws in each. Edited January 6, 2015 by Rodbr Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RdeJ Posted January 6, 2015 Report Share Posted January 6, 2015 Hello Dan, concerning the window, in the past I have used Renovo Plastic Window Polish: http://www.renovointernational.com/products/plastic-polish.phpto recover a faded brown window in a Spitfire softtop. The result was astonishing. Robert Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted January 7, 2015 Report Share Posted January 7, 2015 (edited) I have also used some some incredibly effective polish on a rear window in a convertible. I will try and find the details and post them here.Rgds Ian Found it! It was called 'Hindsight', the following link will take you to their site. As I said above it is incredibly effective and I would be very surprised if it didn't sort your window and a lot easier than trying to insert a new one. http://www.hindsightuk.com/ Edited January 7, 2015 by Ian Vincent Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 7, 2015 Report Share Posted January 7, 2015 For the front end of the webbing if your clever bring the webbing right round the tube and under the fixing plate again, bit of a faff but means you dont have a bare end hanging out from under the plate. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
2long Posted January 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2015 Thanks for the helpful advice! If polishing the window doesn't work and I need to stitch in a new window, I am thinking of going with the zip-out variety. Does anyone have a photo of the neatest way to do that? Cheers Dan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted January 9, 2015 Report Share Posted January 9, 2015 A question about the plate that secures the webbing to the rear deck. Is that plate the same as the ones used to secure the webbing to the hood stick bows and what is the finish ?. ie is it chromed, painted body color or painted black ? Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted January 9, 2015 Report Share Posted January 9, 2015 Stan No idea but the one's I got from Moss was chrome Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 9, 2015 Report Share Posted January 9, 2015 IIRC they were black. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted January 9, 2015 Report Share Posted January 9, 2015 Stan No idea but the one's I got from Moss was chrome Chrome would be nice.. I see Moss Europe shows the same part number for the plates on the hood sticks and the plate on the rear deck so they must all be the same. I'll call the US Moss on Monday and see if the ones they supply are also chrome. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted January 9, 2015 Report Share Posted January 9, 2015 You could always fabricate some from stainless. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EdwinTiben Posted January 9, 2015 Report Share Posted January 9, 2015 The tr2 hoodframe was painted in body color, it would be logical to have these painted in body color too in stead of black or chrome/shiny Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted January 10, 2015 Report Share Posted January 10, 2015 Hi Edwin, I don't think on the early TR2s' like yours and mine that there was a definitive method but FWIW mine were also painted body colour. My 3a was and is black and the webbing plates are zinc plated and then painted with a good Nickel like colour. Chrome can be a bit much on some things. A tip would be to use stainless screws as the original steel ones can leave rust spots on the canvas which you don't notice till you take the hood off. Condensation and damp get trapped between the hood and frame and doesn't dry out as quickly as the rest of the material. rgds Rod Quote Link to post Share on other sites
2long Posted January 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2015 Well, the top is on for the first time in over 30 years. Its not perfect but no flapping up to 70 mph so I am happy! Cheers Dan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EdwinTiben Posted January 25, 2015 Report Share Posted January 25, 2015 Hi dan, Looking great! The Robbins hoofd are very good, my previous one was a Robbins. Havent fitted the new one from skinner yet. Its too cold overhere to fit it, looking at your pictures it seems like summer wth us Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted January 25, 2015 Report Share Posted January 25, 2015 Hi Dan, Nice job, Nice car, Love the car in black and my 3a is black. I had a similar issue with the hood curve over the door top and the section door rear to top. I found that using a hand held steamer I could get the shape better, not that yours is bad. The worst bit for me is the last fitting at the door where it tends to pull and radiate a crease. I have thought about trying to glue a panel of material to spread the load, stitching a panel would not improve it I think. http://s223.photobucket.com/user/Rodbr/media/P5300099.jpg.html Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Larnder Posted January 25, 2015 Report Share Posted January 25, 2015 Dan Don´t forget to leave the first hoop free of the webbing, it makes getting the hood up easier with that hoop well forward, when all up, push that hoop back to tension the lot. Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EdwinTiben Posted January 25, 2015 Report Share Posted January 25, 2015 I think that the original hoods back in the days looked less than these ones Quote Link to post Share on other sites
2long Posted January 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2015 I am considering shortening my webbing a bit by moving back the anchoring point on the forward-most bow, in order to lift that bow up a bit and provide a little more tension when the hood is up. This would result in the forward-most hood bow being supported and lifted by the strap, sitting short of the extreme end of its natural range. Is it ok if the front hood stick does not open up all the way because it is stopped by the strap? Cheers Dan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don Elliott Posted January 27, 2015 Report Share Posted January 27, 2015 Stan - The two little plates on my TR3A were painted black from new. If you think about it and if you're going to show it at TRA, they will be covered by the hood (convertible top) and the judges will never see them. Cheers Don Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted January 27, 2015 Report Share Posted January 27, 2015 Dan. The front hoop is supposed to be supported by the webbing - adjustment of all the section lengths of webbing is the way to align the hoops with the seams in the hood fabric. By the way current thinking is to NOT attach the rearmost hoop to the webbing at all, then you can erect the hood with the rear hoop up against the next one, then push the rear hoop rearwards to tension up the fabric. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
McMuttley Posted January 27, 2015 Report Share Posted January 27, 2015 When I try the non-connected rear hoop, my frame constantly collapses ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 28, 2015 Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 Do you have it correctly locked off on the main support legs Mac? Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
McMuttley Posted January 28, 2015 Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 mmmm ? I thought so, just couldn't get it t lock. I will have t check, the frame is off for re-spraying and the hood is in the bedroom cupboard warming up for a few weeks ready for when the hardtop comes off for re-lining - I will update in a few weeks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted January 28, 2015 Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 I think I know what you mean - with the rear hoop up against the next one the whole frame will very easily go over centre, & flip rearwards. You just have to hold it upright while you are pushing the rear hoop backwards. It's a knack you will soon learn ! Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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