Jump to content

Don Elliott

TR Register Members
  • Content Count

    2,203
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

22 Excellent

About Don Elliott

Profile Information

  • Location
    Montreal, Canada
  • Cars Owned:
    1958 TR3A

Recent Profile Visitors

791 profile views
  1. Back about 1965, I opened up the gearbox and overdrive in my 1958 TR3A. (I can't remember why !). I forced it back together on assembly but while tightening the long side stud nuts, I bent the oil pump assembly at the rear of the overdrive and also put a large crack in the aluminium adaptor plate that fits in between the g/box and the O/D. I replaced the oil pump assembly and it ran fine with the crack but it leaked until, in 1987, I started my restoration by replacing the adaptor plate with a new one. Leakage during the last 115,000 miles has been minimum. Don Elliott, Original Owner TS 27489 L), Montreal
  2. Attached is a recent photo of my Comm. No. Plate TS 27489 LO which came new with my 1958 TR3A when I bought it brand new in May, 1958. Notice that there are 4 rivet locations (left over from the design of the TR2 and TR3 era). But in 1958 with the rectangular number plate, only the two bottom holes were used to secure the plate. There were always 4 rivets installed. The two top holes had rivets - just to close the holes.
  3. Don H - I too have been looking at the Innova Digital Timing Light. But they say it will only work if the car has negative ground. My TR3A is still positive ground. Any advice ? Some have suggested a separate battery. How is this connected ? Will this make the Innova unit work as it should? Don Elliott,
  4. Camilo - Remove the 10 cm black rubber plug on the floor under the carpet. You may have to slide the seat towards the rear to do this. Once the rubber plug is removed, put the round base of the jack down into this hole and make sure it is held solid on the garage floor or a gravel road. Engage the hook, located about mid-way up the jack into the hole in the main frame provided for this jack and turn the large key that comes with the jack.. If you don't have this "key", improvise with a suitable wrench that fits the hexagon top on the jack. You can lift one whole side of the TR using this jack. I think it works great. But be careful. I once bought a replacement jack and this mid-hook was made of such soft steel, it just bent and wouldn't lift the TR. So I took my MIG welder and beefed it up so it would lift the TR as specified.
  5. I would believe that an over-rider stay is a support for the front bumperettes on a TR3A where the stay is attached to the inner wing after you install the radiator air deflector and before you install the grille.
  6. I forgot to mention that the stay-rod is secured to the studs for the hinge on the RHS when looking at the boot from the rear. Also, the bottom free end of the stay-rod is supported in a slotted hole between the channel for the seal and the RHS rear wing.
  7. All TR2s, TR3s and early TR3As had square corners for the channel for the boot seal. Mine came like that in May 1958 (TR3A TS 27489 LO) and maybe the photos I have attached will help. The rubber seal sits down in the channel and originally mine was glued in. In 1990 during the restoration, I cut the seal to fit as originally - but never glued it in. I never had rain come in. This way, I can easily remove it to clean the dust etc. out the bottom of the channel - as at a Car Show. The seal length along the top channel for the boot opening has the "wing" pointing down towards the boot. The 2nd piece goes down one side as shown, turns the 90 deg. corner goes along the bottom and then turns upwards again. The only cuts are at the the extreme left and right upper corners. and are notched (mitered ?) to fit and seal. Don Elliott, Original Owner
  8. The coach key in the lower part of the photo is the original one that came with my 1958 TR3A brand new in May, 1958. "TRusty" was "born" on Feb. 14th, 1958 and bears Comm. No. TS 27489 LO. All the replacement keys I have bought are like the upper onE where the square end is cast as a diamond. This was probably done to give that end a draught angle to facilitate the casting process steps. The original key has the square end which is square and parallel with the "T" of the handle.
  9. Put it all back together using stainless steel nuts and bolts so it will be easier next time around.
  10. This is the wiper motor that came new in my 1958 TR3A (TS 27489 LO) when I bought it brand new in May, 1958. It is a left-hand drive built for North America. Your Comm. No. is quite close to mine. Mark Macy describes it on his site. - as a 3-wire DR2 wiper motor. Don Elliott, Original Owner
  11. Alan - You can see how low the 3-point red seat belt is down at my elbow while I was driving at Harewood near Harrogate in 2011. The rear point of attachment for the upper belt is quite low as I remember. I hope your health is good. I recall missing you because of events at Harrogate. Cheers Don
  12. I have had simple lap belts in my 1958 TR3A since 1959 when I started to rally it. I feel secure with them. I drove TS2 for 2300 miles in 2011 and it had 3-way belts. The top belt would not stay up on my shoulder no matter what I did. It would fall down to my belly and it would roll down off my shoulder. It didn't feel secure. I was told that driving in UK with a 3-way belt like this down to my belly would mean I could get an infraction from the local constabulary. Don Elliott, Original Owner, 1958 TR3A, TS 27489 LO
  13. If it's the timing chain tensioner, the engine will pull properly on acceleration. That's because the load it keeping the timing chain tight on that side. But if you suddenly take your foot off the petrol pedal, and you hear a rattling sound from the front of the engine, then, for a few moments, the timing chain is slack on both sides and the tensioner would need to be changed. You can do this with the engine compartment open and you are working on the carb side of the engine with you ear down to listen for the rattle (looseness).
  14. There are curved wings on the latch base secured to the rear face of the doors. These can be re-curved to get the fit you want. Also you can file or grind a bit off the moving latch coming out the door so it clicks into place.
  15. This is from a very original TR2.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.