Tr4Tony

Yep that's the one ...

Barry The top most part of your radiator (ie the filler cap) should be about 1 inch clear of the bonnet strengthening bar. The bottom of the radiator should be about 1/2 inch above the stone guard in the chassis. Many radiators have the mounting brackets welded in the wrong place, but the radiator should fit this's vertical hole unless it's very badly sized. Check these measurements and see where it's been pushed up. If there are rubber washers or shims remove and drop the radiator. If it's just too big yiu may need to replace it. The worst scenario is that the chassis mounts have been replaced and / or incorrectly welded on, meaning that this needs to be rewelded. Regards Tony

Austin I can make you one if you're really desperate ! What was it a great man said, ? never be beaten by equipment !

The ARE spanner is made by Joe and Sean Alexander in the USA - you can find them on the Internet. Well thought through bits and pieces for the TR. Regards Tony

John A new alloy cover should not be bent - and if 170 have been sold without complaint, that's more of a reflection on buyers tolerance of unfit for purpose stock than what's right. The chances are that a cover like this will blow oil out, even if not immediately and particularly on a high performance engine (or indeed a worn out one with higher than normal valve cover pressure). I doubt very much if you could tighten it down very much without causing damage as I recall these to be very lightweight items. My point here is that if you damage it, you own it. Whilst the silicon gaskets are Definately better, it won't solve a bent or poorly machined cover. If it were me, I'd be returning the cover and if a decent one can't be supplied I'd taking my business elsewhere. Regards Tony

Mark The other issue that I learnt from my experience using a lightweight battery in my TR4 is that they won't support a lot of modern gizmo's and tend to drain more rapidly - depends on how much you spend of course, but unless you're going racing I would suggest sticking with a traditional modern wet battery. My very expensive but supposedly middle of the cost range red top lasted about an hour with lamps, spots, wipers, trips and heater on before the voltage started to drop. The heated front screen killed it very quickly to the point that I had 10 minutes every hour only with that. Regards Tony

Wow ! Those look fab. Shame to paint them.

Paul Email me please ? I can't get a pm to you. Regards Tony

'On the roof' ... Hard in a TR, but not impossible !

Hi Surely this was about cooling in those days, then ease of production, length of service (with replaceable liners) etc. ? Regards Tony

Adey If this stuff is anywhere near as good as the zircotec coating I'd recommend it. Makes a huge difference to under bonnet temp, but the gas out the back of the pipe is significantly hotter, blues the rear valance and the rear box does heat up when you run at high speed / revs. On BST82B I can set things in the boot alight when the exhaust guards are fitted .. Regards Tony

Hi My experience with the Dynalite / Dynamo type alternators has not been good either. They tend to overheat and break, just like, the old LUCAS LRA 105. I settled on a small DENSO alternator and found a 60 amp and 85 amp alternative which are sufficiently small that they fit the space and can be hidden / shielded reasonably easily and they seem to last a long time in the most arduous of conditions. The smaller 40 amp is also a very good unit and should work for most unless you are using trick lights and trip meters, hot air blowers, heated screens and all that rally stuff ... You can buy then from the usual places and sometimes on eBay and most suppliers can furnish you with a BASTUCK fitting kit for £20 or so. Similarly the plugs are available for circa £10 each, and the tiny pin version seems to be better than the spade in use as it attaches harder and can be sealed. One word of warning though, I believe that you really need to buy an ND stamped original Denso unit, not the cheap reproduction as my experience is that the these fail very quickly, purely because they are not well made. The ND logo is on the tin plate end cover. Hope this is useful. Regards Tony

Hi It would be good if you joined the Club, so that you can garner support ? Regards Tony