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About j-eichert

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    Buettelborn/ Germany: Near Frankfurt/Main

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  1. Gearbox cover to Body is metal-to-metal - no Problems with that up to now. The water is entering the car through other leaks…. the sound is always there Regards, Johannes
  2. Yes, it looks like the mechanical one from the TR3 but uses the same inner mechanics as the later (TR4) types), the sensor is identical. Johannes
  3. I thought so, Mick - although I was wondering if there are differences between the tyres/ makes. And we all were surprised, that one could get this "result" even with an (almost) standard TR3 or TR6 just by driving to ist limit on a track with long & fast curves. This Picture Shows a reaer tyre - the front ones are less "smeared" - see picture Ok... but that was happening at (only?) an average speed of 90...100km/h - depending on the car (The PI did have more power and wider tyres, giving more cornering Speed) ...but it was an interesting expirience although seeing the same curve more than 40times gets boring somehow. Regards, Johannes
  4. On a track day in July we almost "melted" the tyres - in the Pictures you see Vredestein T-Trac2 Regards, Johannes
  5. I would tend to say: - Torque at a given rpm is what you feel as the power, to change your speed. Engine torque is reduced by the gear ratio to torque at the wheel - this is what accelarates you really. - Horsepower is only valid at this rpm: it is actually this formula: horsepower = torque x rpm as long as you do not drive with this rprm, you never get this horsepower. Most People would be amazed, how few horses are working most of time So increasing low end torque is what you feel as "power" during normal cruising - on the track, while revving high, you feel the horsepower. So I would be tempted to install a Judson Kit - the Moss-Kit may be not legal in Germany, especially in respect of my historic Registration (as it is to modern) Regards, Johannes
  6. Marco: If it performed without any sign of trouble - then replace the discs / pads and keep on driving. We did some runs on the Anneau du Rhin - racetrack. The brakes performed well - after the pads had settled. You could smell them cooking after the first 30min run - from then on it was fine. Regards, Johannes
  7. Hello Roy, a bit dusty - but you can see the Details of the pressing quite well Just think it beeing mounted on the other side ….. Regards, Johannes
  8. …. but speeding is much cheaper in Germany than it is in the Netherlands or France. Sometimes there are warning signs "Radarkontrolle" (controlled by radar) but there is not neccessarily a speed camera. Some towns to own a camera with more than one housings to install them - so you never know, which of them is "loaded" Regards, Johannes
  9. Hello, when I participated at several "safety trainings" by the ADAC (similar to your RAC) the instructors always told us to put the better tyres on the rear. Why? Because the rear axle is fixed to the body and so the direction of the rear axles is identical to the movement of the body. The front axle is indepedendant and its direction is modified by the steering wheel/ driver. So if you loose grip at the front, then the car moves into the direction of the body (rear axle) - if you loose grip at the rear, the car may move into any direction. Therefor it should be better to put the better tyres on the rear axle - independant from front/ rear wheel drive. This is said to be valid for normal day driving and situations - not for forced drifting or driven on a track. Regards, Johannes
  10. Maybe this helps Regards, Johannes
  11. Hello Phil, when I restored TS27952L I found a lot of "almost white" primer as lowest coat of paint on the Body. Later I found out that the original clour of TS27952 was "Pearl White". Unfortunately Nothing is left as I siwtched to "Winchester blue". But I can assure you, this was an "off White" - resembling primer. For your TR2 you should look for the older paint codes (see Bill P. and his books) as the old codes may have been changed later. Bill P. states the following codes for TR2-TR3A(Sept.1958) Dockers BF 4695, BF5460, BF4881, CGW18 or CHW4 ICI HILUX M-048-2857 Pinchin-Johnson PJ414HS or PJ414LB GIP Ltd 5525 Berger (Ault and Wiborg) possibly 17414 I think this list alone you may guess, that there is more than one correct shade. In his book he shows a sample Picture, where "Pearl White" is not far away from "pale yellow" Regards, Johannes
  12. Hello Andy, within Germany the so called "historic" cars are excempt from any ban in environmental zones. There may be automated detection systems, but for a german car, the necessary Thing is the "H" as last character on the number plate (e.g. GG-TR 358 H is a car from the County "Gross Gerau" = GG and the idndividual letter/ number combination TR358 with the Addition of "H" for a historic vehicle). A german car without this may be fined, if entering an environmental zone even if it is older than 30 years. Reason: Not every car older than 30 years may get the "H" - it has to be "original" or close to original. How foreign cars are handled may be different, but as far as I know any UK car older than a certain age is seen as "historic" - so this would apply here as well: So an UK- historic car is treated similar to a german historic car. Regards, Johannes
  13. Hello Pink, this is sometimes very, very individual.... that's why everybody is able to tell sometimes funny stories about what they complained and what they did let pass. There are certain rules - but there is always room for Interpretation and/ or as good sense for reality Johannes
  14. Hello Pink, we do have a (sometimes) difficult MOT - most of us can tell amazing / crazy/ funny stories about this topic. So actually cracked (or overaged) tyres should not pass the MOT - but sometimes the guy controlling the car has other things in mind. Johannes
  15. I use them too for some years now - they provide grip on dry as well as on wet Surface. The grip level of my TR3A could be better - but this should be blamed on the Suspension, not on the tyres. They were a great improvement over the Firestones I was using beforehand Durabilty may be OK - I Change them for age, not for wear. Due to our last trips & some Trouble in the front suspension, I suffered stron wear on the outside shoulders of the front tyres - the wear on the rear is quite low. So with normal driving & Setup they should last some 20k miles Regards, Johannes
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