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j-eichert

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About j-eichert

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    Buettelborn/ Germany: Near Frankfurt/Main

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  1. I would tend to say: - Torque at a given rpm is what you feel as the power, to change your speed. Engine torque is reduced by the gear ratio to torque at the wheel - this is what accelarates you really. - Horsepower is only valid at this rpm: it is actually this formula: horsepower = torque x rpm as long as you do not drive with this rprm, you never get this horsepower. Most People would be amazed, how few horses are working most of time So increasing low end torque is what you feel as "power" during normal cruising - on the track, while revving high, you feel the horsepower. So I would be tempted to install a Judson Kit - the Moss-Kit may be not legal in Germany, especially in respect of my historic Registration (as it is to modern) Regards, Johannes
  2. Marco: If it performed without any sign of trouble - then replace the discs / pads and keep on driving. We did some runs on the Anneau du Rhin - racetrack. The brakes performed well - after the pads had settled. You could smell them cooking after the first 30min run - from then on it was fine. Regards, Johannes
  3. Hello Roy, a bit dusty - but you can see the Details of the pressing quite well Just think it beeing mounted on the other side ….. Regards, Johannes
  4. …. but speeding is much cheaper in Germany than it is in the Netherlands or France. Sometimes there are warning signs "Radarkontrolle" (controlled by radar) but there is not neccessarily a speed camera. Some towns to own a camera with more than one housings to install them - so you never know, which of them is "loaded" Regards, Johannes
  5. Hello, when I participated at several "safety trainings" by the ADAC (similar to your RAC) the instructors always told us to put the better tyres on the rear. Why? Because the rear axle is fixed to the body and so the direction of the rear axles is identical to the movement of the body. The front axle is indepedendant and its direction is modified by the steering wheel/ driver. So if you loose grip at the front, then the car moves into the direction of the body (rear axle) - if you loose grip at the rear, the car may move into any direction. Therefor it should be better to put the better tyres on the rear axle - independant from front/ rear wheel drive. This is said to be valid for normal day driving and situations - not for forced drifting or driven on a track. Regards, Johannes
  6. Maybe this helps Regards, Johannes
  7. Hello Phil, when I restored TS27952L I found a lot of "almost white" primer as lowest coat of paint on the Body. Later I found out that the original clour of TS27952 was "Pearl White". Unfortunately Nothing is left as I siwtched to "Winchester blue". But I can assure you, this was an "off White" - resembling primer. For your TR2 you should look for the older paint codes (see Bill P. and his books) as the old codes may have been changed later. Bill P. states the following codes for TR2-TR3A(Sept.1958) Dockers BF 4695, BF5460, BF4881, CGW18 or CHW4 ICI HILUX M-048-2857 Pinchin-Johnson PJ414HS or PJ414LB GIP Ltd 5525 Berger (Ault and Wiborg) possibly 17414 I think this list alone you may guess, that there is more than one correct shade. In his book he shows a sample Picture, where "Pearl White" is not far away from "pale yellow" Regards, Johannes
  8. Hello Andy, within Germany the so called "historic" cars are excempt from any ban in environmental zones. There may be automated detection systems, but for a german car, the necessary Thing is the "H" as last character on the number plate (e.g. GG-TR 358 H is a car from the County "Gross Gerau" = GG and the idndividual letter/ number combination TR358 with the Addition of "H" for a historic vehicle). A german car without this may be fined, if entering an environmental zone even if it is older than 30 years. Reason: Not every car older than 30 years may get the "H" - it has to be "original" or close to original. How foreign cars are handled may be different, but as far as I know any UK car older than a certain age is seen as "historic" - so this would apply here as well: So an UK- historic car is treated similar to a german historic car. Regards, Johannes
  9. Hello Pink, this is sometimes very, very individual.... that's why everybody is able to tell sometimes funny stories about what they complained and what they did let pass. There are certain rules - but there is always room for Interpretation and/ or as good sense for reality Johannes
  10. Hello Pink, we do have a (sometimes) difficult MOT - most of us can tell amazing / crazy/ funny stories about this topic. So actually cracked (or overaged) tyres should not pass the MOT - but sometimes the guy controlling the car has other things in mind. Johannes
  11. I use them too for some years now - they provide grip on dry as well as on wet Surface. The grip level of my TR3A could be better - but this should be blamed on the Suspension, not on the tyres. They were a great improvement over the Firestones I was using beforehand Durabilty may be OK - I Change them for age, not for wear. Due to our last trips & some Trouble in the front suspension, I suffered stron wear on the outside shoulders of the front tyres - the wear on the rear is quite low. So with normal driving & Setup they should last some 20k miles Regards, Johannes
  12. Hello Andy, for me - running a 3A with standard dynamo, there are some points that make this topic important: - the dynamo is specified to deliver max. 19A, ignition may need some 3-5A plus the lights (during night) with another 10-11A. Plus some Amps for the O/D. The total load will be in the range of 17A ( 15...20A ?) then, giving the dynamo a load factor of 89%. You would dare to run the engine on constant 80% load….. As long as there is no additional electrics (like a fan) this should be "as designed". - If lights are switched on, my ammeter tells me, that I am drawing current from the battery. Switching lights of results in a short period of loading - so there is "something" else. And - as drawing current from the battery, the total time of running with lights = ON may be limited. This leads to thoughts of how to reduce power consumption. What I found out is, that the characteristic of the load regulator seems to be "fold back": A high load results in reduced output voltage - so as long as this as balanced correctly, after a while the voltage from the battery is reduced and then the load current will equal the drawn current again. But is this trustworthy? As having to do with electronics, I don't trust the mechanical regulator as this is definitely a unit with limited lifetime - and probably lacking the quality of a OEM-product, since they are reproduced "somewhere". Regards and keep on discussing Johannes
  13. Christian Marx "invented" his version of the rear seal some years ago - as he sold more than just a few of these he needed some kind of professional aid in production and sales: Due to his connection to the TC racing series and Bastuck promoting this series, it was quite logical that Bastuck was a potential partner. So today you can buy the same unit from Christian Marx or Bastuck - these are identical. Regarding the Ebay -offering: It looks identical including the finish of the Aluminium parts - the only missing part is the spring. So I would be interested to know, ifit's a cheap copy or a real bargain. Regards, Johannes
  14. All over Europe you find several approaches to control the behavior of the (us) people : From one point of view I accept this as necessary means to "save the world" From another point of view I wonder, if - sometimes the cost is higher then the duties (German Maut for trucks was said to gain a much higher net income for the Gouvernement than actually resulted - nobody publishes real figures openly - but I see more trucks on the Autobahn then ever before) - some time in the future nobody will remember, why this measure was taken and "we" are left with a lot of duties, nobody needs anymore. But skipping them would result in a lot of employees without job (whos job was to perform all these tasks) . we have a lot of old taxes, that make no sense anymore.. But like all the times before, we (the people) will arrange ourselves with all these things…. like mercury-filled energy saving lamps that now, since LEDs gained more power, are just another waste of resources and pollution…. Regards, Johannes
  15. Hello, disconnect the wiring (horn/ indicators) close to the horn open the nut at the bottom of the steering box (the steering box will be drained by this action - if there is oil inside…) carefully lift the whole assembly (control head plus a thin pipe of the length of the whole steering tube) out of the car. Typically the wires have to fed into the tube, in order not to looese the bullet pins. Then can can put it on the bench and start the disassembly…. Regards, Johannes
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