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G Denson

TR Register Members
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About G Denson

  • Birthday 05/22/1950

Profile Information

  • Location
    New Forest
  • Cars Owned:
    1958 Triumph TR3a

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611 profile views
  1. I tried the Moss instructions and they worked a treat. Cheers Gordon
  2. Moliver The hood webbing ( no 6 )is secured to the body by a threaded screw and one of the lift and dot pegs for the hood fastener both of which should be on the inside of the bar ( no 12 ) They screw into the captive nuts in the rear panel The cockpit capping ( no 12 ) screws into the inside of the rear panel with self tapping screws and a cup washer ( Moss page 138 nos 13 & 14 8 will be required) but fix them under the rear trim panel. Hope this helps Cheers Gordon
  3. As far as the dates of the 576’s are concerned if they are originals on the rear of the lamp should have a date stamp. So if manufactured in June 1958 it would be 658 if in November 1158 Hope this helps Cheers Gordon
  4. Happy birthday Vicky from Sheenagh and myself. 21 again? Cheers Gordon
  5. Shaun I have a 1958 TR3a and have taken three pictures of the plate that the locking mechanism slides onto when you turn the boot catch. In reality it is just a piece of metal shaped under side of the boot and then bends 90 degrees to fit the inner edge of the rear of the boot and then another 90 degrees to be level so the boot catch can slide underneath it. It appears to be spot welded on but you could us rivets or self tapping screws. The first picture is from the top, second from the side and last from inside the boot. Hope this helps. Cheers Gordon
  6. She Who Must Be Obeyed made comment that she her feet could not reach the bulkhead as she was not tall enough ( never a complaint ) I noticed that on an Italia they had a footrest so went to a show where I knew the would be a few on show and took precise measurements and lots of photos. I made one up using aluminium so no need for welding and easy to cut and fabricate. SWMBO sat in the car to get the precise location of the rest. Hey presto one happy wife. Cheers Gordon
  7. My biggest regret was selling my first TR. Bought as a rusty runner in 1971. Joined the Register for spares spent the winter rebuilding the old girl. Spent two summers racing through the club despite it being my only daytime vehicle. Sold it in 1979 when the first child came along as I needed the money. DVLA shows it is still on the road, wish I knew where. Fond memories Gordon
  8. On the edge of the New Forest there is a pub called The Rising Sun. In the late 60’s/early 70’s it became somewhat rundown and a couple of letters fell off the front wall so the sign read as follows....... R sing Su since then the locals have always known it by this name. Cheers Gordon
  9. I was an upmarket bodger and used perforated zinc, used less filler and did not rust!! From there when I got a part time job that used fibreglass progressed to this, again rust free. One of the cars is still on the road. Yes I am ashamed in hindsight. But we all did it, or most of us. Cheers Gordon
  10. Miles I have a spare temp gauge and it appears to have a lip which would mean you could not pass the gauge through the hole in the centre console, even if you could the needle would be susceptible to damage as it is very delicate. I changed the console last year a task not to be repeated as to the work involved. Make sure you label all the wires as even with a wiring diagram this will help. The copper tube is easy to undo BUT don’t loose the little washer that goes on the the back of the gauge ( Moss part No 2K4936) As far as removal of the thermostat from the housing is concer
  11. What ever you do Don’t just disconnect the battery. You MUST connect up another one in tandem so there is a constant supply of current. If you don’t you could loose some of the stored information. Halfords seems to be a good idea so if it goes wrong you can blame them Good luck Cheers Gordon
  12. You will be glad to hear that my problem has now been solved. Thank you to Miles A for the helpful suggestion to use a flexible drive. I managed to borrow one from a friend. There was enough room to drill the holes so the support bracket could be attached to the underside of the cross-bar using the correct self tapping screws. As ever the Forum has come up trumps in sorting out my little problem. Thank you one and all for your invaluable assistance. Cheers Gordon
  13. Peter Tried this even sanded the bar down to bare metal just in case the holes had been filled. No luck. Cheers Gordon
  14. Thanks for the replies so far. The cross-bar does unbolt but it is attached to the body of the front section. It appears that you have to lift the front section up about 2" before you can slide the bar downwards to remove it from the the front section. The fixing bracket on each inner wing is welded so you can't unbolt it and slide them away. The idea about an angle drive looks interesting and it appears that there is room to use one. Off to Flea-bay to see what's on offer. Cheers Gordon
  15. Never own a classic car!! (just kidding) The bracket holding the bonnet lift assembly decided that it had enough of life and sheered off by the mounting point on the right hand side. Took the offending part off with the intention of getting it welded up by merely undoing the two bolts where it is mounted to the crossbar that is bolted to the brackets on each wing.Looked up the relevant part number and realised that most suppliers sold a whole assembly which included the top bracket,plunger,spring,cups at top and bottom of the spring,right & left hand support brackets which are attach
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