Jump to content

G Denson

TR Register Members
  • Content Count

    57
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About G Denson

  • Birthday 05/22/1950

Profile Information

  • Location
    New Forest

Recent Profile Visitors

356 profile views
  1. You will be glad to hear that my problem has now been solved. Thank you to Miles A for the helpful suggestion to use a flexible drive. I managed to borrow one from a friend. There was enough room to drill the holes so the support bracket could be attached to the underside of the cross-bar using the correct self tapping screws. As ever the Forum has come up trumps in sorting out my little problem. Thank you one and all for your invaluable assistance. Cheers Gordon
  2. Peter Tried this even sanded the bar down to bare metal just in case the holes had been filled. No luck. Cheers Gordon
  3. Thanks for the replies so far. The cross-bar does unbolt but it is attached to the body of the front section. It appears that you have to lift the front section up about 2" before you can slide the bar downwards to remove it from the the front section. The fixing bracket on each inner wing is welded so you can't unbolt it and slide them away. The idea about an angle drive looks interesting and it appears that there is room to use one. Off to Flea-bay to see what's on offer. Cheers Gordon
  4. Never own a classic car!! (just kidding) The bracket holding the bonnet lift assembly decided that it had enough of life and sheered off by the mounting point on the right hand side. Took the offending part off with the intention of getting it welded up by merely undoing the two bolts where it is mounted to the crossbar that is bolted to the brackets on each wing.Looked up the relevant part number and realised that most suppliers sold a whole assembly which included the top bracket,plunger,spring,cups at top and bottom of the spring,right & left hand support brackets which are attach by screws to the the cross bar on the underside. Approximate costs £60/70......Ouch Luckily Revingtons sold the parts as individual items so I merely purchased the top bracket (Part No 603084) which was far cheaper than the welding costs. The problem I now have is that the assembly should have been attached not only to the face of the crossbar but also to the underside however it appears that from the time the car was built this has not been the case as the are no corresponding holes to enable the right & left hand support brackets to be screwed onto the underside of the crossbar. I can only assume that the bracket broke off as there was too much pressure on it without the additional strength of it not in effect being supported at four points. The questions I pose to those of experience are :- 1. Has anyone else experienced the same problem 2.How do you drill the relevant holes to screw the assembly to the underside of the crossbar while it is still on the car as I can't see how you can remove the crossbar without taking off the front completely. Answers on the a postcard please. Cheers Gordon
  5. I am trying to see if my father's 3A is still around. I have searched on the DVLA website but there is no record. It my be hidden away in a shed somewhere or indeed scrapped. Dad bought the car new from Coopers Garage in New Milton in Hampshire in 1958. I have a 3a and per-chance it is also 1958 vintage. It would be great if I could trace this part of my family history. Is there someone out there with any information? Gordon
  6. I hate to say but “ she who must be obeyed “ picked up a WW11 USAF flying jacket from our local tip for the princely sum of £5.00. Fits perfectly. No rips or tears in excellent condition. After a professional clean it was as good as new. I have had good use of it for the last eight years. Cheers Gordon D
  7. Glynn I would recommend John Ostick of JDO-Instruments in Keighley West Yorkshire Tel 01535672125:Web www.jdo 1.com :email john_ostick@hotmail.com I have used and found his work excellent in the past. Contact him to discuss the problem and get a cost and time frame to complete the work. Best of luck with your problem. Cheers Gordon
  8. Hi RobG Sorry I can't help you with your picture problem. I am the same, these new fangled machines are also beyond me!! As far as the bumper is concerned I have just had a good look at mine. It is attached to the bumper bar iron with a chrome bolt on the outer side and via the over-rider on the inner. The outer hole is 8 1/2" from the end of the bumper and the inner 18" The total length of the bumper is 64 1/2" and the curve is 4". If these measurements don't match up it can't be from a 3A, unless mine is wrong!! Trust this helps with your conundrum,or does it add to it? Cheers Gordon
  9. Thank you one and ALL. Spot on! Took the steering wheel off so I could grovel on my back under the dash. Managed to get my fingers to the speedo collar ( wish I had 6 inch fingers with a grip line a vice ) all undone twiddled the inner cable around a tadge, re-engaged it and screwed up the collar. Went for a test drive just now......Hey Presto..solid as a rock as before. Thanks for your link Don. Very informative. What would we do without the forum to solve our little problems. Cheers Gordon
  10. I have just finished the monumental task of putting in a new dashboard and rewiring in part. I went out for a test drive today and everything was OK except the speedo, which was rock solid before I stripped everything out, is now wavering about 2 or 3/10 of and inch,enough to be quite annoying. Has anyone got any ideas of how to fix this before I take it out to try and rectify the problem. Thanks in anticipation. Gordon D
  11. Good afternoon one and all As part of my winter project I decided to revamp the dashboard on the old girl.(1958 TR3a) The car came over from the US and as part of the restoration and conversion to RHD in the 1990's it was fitted with a hand crafted wooden dash which,I have to admit looked quite fantastic and quite eye catching to say the least. The trouble is that with the passing of time major splits have appeared in the wood and after very careful consideration I have come to the conclusion it is beyond economic repair .Furthermore if it is repaired there is no guarantee it will not go the same way. I received a couple of estimates to repair it which made made my wallet shiver. The upshot is that I have managed to obtain an original steel RHD dash but it is missing the cubby box lid and box. Is there anyone who has one and would part with it if I were to pass silver across their palm. I await with eager anticipation some positive news!! Cheers Gordon D
  12. Tony Sent you a PM Cheers Gordon
  13. Morning to you all Just returned from a great trip around Brittany with the Wessex Group. Car faultless with the only exception that the temperature gauge suddenly stopped working. I can only presume it needs re-gassing. Before I troll through the internet does anyone have any recommendations of reliable repairers. Also is it worth repairing it or getting a new exchange unit. Thanks as ever in anticipation for your help. Cheers Gordon
  14. Hi Graham & Tonyloz Graham....... I have just measured the seats in the car and the front of the seat is 18cm, the rear 10cm. The original seats when measured with the runners in place are, front 20cm, rear 12cm. I have a friend who has a MK2 MX5 and is 6'4" tall. He has told me you can adapt the seat foam by shaving up to 2" off the base to lower the height which he has done in his car so his head does not brush the roof when up.Hope this helps. Tonyloz........The seats run forward and rearwards on the adapted runners. The rear of both the seats adjust for the rake from bolt upright to 40/45 degrees. Again I hope this helps. Cheers Gordon
  15. Graham Yes they do fit. I installed a pair six weeks ago. " She who must be obeyed " has found them extremely comfortable a great improvement on the standard seats. I drove to Malvern for the IWE and felt as fresh as a daisy. I fully accept they are a tight fit,but fit they do and it is well worth the change. You can get adapted runners from TR Trader and the seats merely bolt on to them and use the existing holes in the floor pan as the original seats. Restorations seats are good but the price does not compare with a set of MX5 seats even after the cost of recovering them. From my experience I can only say go for it. Cheers Gordon
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.