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RdeJ

Registered User
  • Content Count

    29
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  • Location
    The Netherlands
  • Cars Owned:
    2CV, Mini Van, Spitfire MK lll
    Currently: Mini 1300, TR3

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  1. Had a knocking sound at the rear at one side while driving over bumbs. It appeared the bolds from the strap keeping the axle and leaf spring together had come slightly loose. Item 24 in the Moss cataloque https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/steering-suspension/rear-suspension/rear-suspension-tr2-4-1953-65.html Replaced with nylocs. Robert
  2. Out of the blue I occasionally had the same sound on cold start. It disappeared after I had the sump of to fix some leakage issues on the gasket. While having the sump removed, also exchanged the thrustwashers and oilpump-filter. The filter was damaged, guess it was slapping to the inside of the sump. Robert
  3. Hi Roger, I replaced the seal with the box in position. It was required to remove the propshaft to get space for sliding off the flange. Also you need to make somerhing up to force the new seal back into the taill of the gearbox. In my case it was leaking because the drive-flange surface was pitted on the outside which caused the seal not to function properly. I ordered a "new" flange at a well known UK supplier, unfortunately the "new" flange did not even meet the quality of refurbished. It was just a piece fresh painted old ****. Robert
  4. Today I "popped" mine (OD) in by my own. Actualy it was hard to believe it took about a minnute to get it alligned and get the splines married. With the experience of the previous 1 hour mounting exercise together with a helpful neighbour and some good reading on this forum I had slightly changed the plan off attack. I realysed that the engine/gearbox are not mounted level into the chassis, als such if you glide or trolley the gearbox towards the engine the forward movement angle of the primairy shaft must be the same angle als the spline in the friction plate. ( hope I explain this in th
  5. OK, the gearbox is out and believe have found the culprit. The pressure-plate has 3 fingers which are at uneven axial depth in relation to the plate/bearing, thats wrong. The distance between highest and lowest position is 5 mm. Should be 0. Seems that it is caused due to the 3 adjustment nuts where not locked properly and have ran out of possition. When zooming into the nut you can see that the slot is not alligned anymore. They must have been unwinded and have caused the clutch pedal travel requirement adjustment everytime. As they have unwinded uneven it caused the clutch-plate t
  6. Hello Rockie Having the long end of the propshaft mounted at the gearbox side will enlarge the chance of introducing a vibration at higher speeds ( > 50 mph) Had this issue years ago on a Spitfire. Reversing the shaft such the splined end was at the gearbox side cured the vibration. Would not take the risk with such a long trip on schedule. Robert
  7. Tom, were you able to determine why/how the non Laycock clutch plate was causing issues? Robert
  8. I have replaced the slave cylinder 3 years ago it is running smooth while manualy pressing the rod to inside. Like Waldi's comment it has an internal spring which is gently moving the rod outwards, the stronger outside clutch return spring is working against the internal one and (if adjusted correctly) free the clutch-bearing from the clutch-plate fingers. Guess the shorter slave-cylinders do not ave the external spring. Robert
  9. Hallo Waldi, Thats my take too, should not be nessesary to adjust so frequently. There is no grumbling sound while pressing the pedal, though a minor squaling sound starts to arise the last week. Think it is the new clutch-bearing giving up but can not imagine that it is responsible for the lost of so much axial travel at this stage. Robert
  10. Meanwhile I have readjusted the clutchlever arm free play a couple of times after each trip and the clutch pedal is at maximum hight now. It is not possible anymore to free-up the clutch. It's rather an adventure to get it into 1st gear, next the car starts crawling forwards and picks up directly at pedal lift. I've had the clutch pedal pressed overnight and the lever did not changed from position (under tension of the clutch and external return spring) The slave gives about 20 mm travel on the clutchlever. By measuring the fork from the old gearbox and old clutchplate-levers, that s
  11. Tx Roger, Have not had the sleeve cylinder tube disconnected while exchanging the gearbox, so don't expect air in the system. Will check it later when back home again. ...yes the bleed niple is at 12:00 hr. Tube looks good (from outside...) Reading your comments about checking joints of the master cylinder I tot triggered that there is an adjustable rod here too. That's behind the wipermotor (LHD). Was to much focussed on just the slave rod. So moved back the slave rod to the center lever hole. Next adjusted the rod length at the master cylinder. At least now the clutch grip is higher at
  12. Just before going on vacation I changed the standard gearbox for an A-type in the TR3. ...wandering if this is the right momentum to do such an 'exercise', yes the old gearbox was grumbling to loud. While all was out, replaced the top bearing behind the flywheel, 3-finger clutch-cover, plate and main clutch-bearing. Reused the bronze bearing carrier and fork, though installed an ' uprated' fork pin and added a rollpin in the shaft. Some items fitted with minimum ceramic grease. All is working well, though compared to the old setup the clutch grip sits deeper on the pedal. The problem I am
  13. I had 2 new accuspark units defect within 100 miles. On recommendation of the supplier I changed from copper to carbon leads. Has been running fine since the last 500 miles. Another positive side effect is that now the degree setting on the timing-light is stable. With the copper leads it was not holding the advance stetting, must have been badly behaved because off a noisy signal. May also check the voltage regulator is doing its job within spec. High voltage spikes in the primary circuit may ruin the accuspark unit. Btw in my case they became defect during verre hot day. The units let
  14. John, is there a possibility that you have an issue with the petrol. Did the issue started after filling gas. Make sure you have a rotor-arm with an arrow pointing to the left when observing from the top. At TDC the rotor is pointing left upwards ~ Another considderation while troubleshooting is to bypass the electrical harness and put a straight connection beween the plus of the battery and plus of the coil. (would remove the the existing lead). Robert
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