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Millers sell  a semi-synthetic classic oil, which I now use in my '6 and TD, designed for our era ( pre cat) of engines. Not sure of its ZZDP content, but I am a big believer in synthetic and semi synthetic lubricants. This is based on the fact that modern engines are good for way over 100K miles, old crocks like ours would need a rebore well before this.

Only my view, time and miles will tell.

Mike

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On 9/11/2023 at 1:45 PM, TRTOM2498PI said:

Penrite 20/60 is your friend +1

I had a bad experience with Halfords/ Comma oil some 30 + years ago on a trip to my cousins hill farm a journey of 250 miles through loss of oil pressure. I started my journey with my oil pressure at just over 75 psi but after 50 miles it had dropped to 60 psi and tick over was at 30 psi. I stopped at the Seven Bridge Services for 1 hour to let the engine cool down. Started the engine again and it was back up to 75 psi running at 2000 RPM but as I progressed it started to fall again. This was at the the of time of oil and petrol rationing. For the journey back I drained the Halfords/Comma oil out and replaced it with Castrol Agricultural 10/40 my oil pressure on the way home stuck at 75 psi at 2000 rpm and above all the way home and 50 psi on tick over. I have never used any Comma products again especially when I found out their oil was reconstituted.

Bruce.

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4 minutes ago, astontr6 said:

I had a bad experience with Halfords/ Comma oil some 30 + years ago on a trip to my cousins hill farm a journey of 250 miles through loss of oil pressure. I started my journey with my oil pressure at just over 75 psi but after 50 miles it had dropped to 60 psi and tick over was at 30 psi. I stopped at the Seven Bridge Services for 1 hour to let the engine cool down. Started the engine again and it was back up to 75 psi running at 2000 RPM but as I progressed it started to fall again. This was at the the of time of oil and petrol rationing. For the journey back I drained the Halfords/Comma oil out and replaced it with Castrol Agricultural 10/40 my oil pressure on the way home stuck at 75 psi at 2000 rpm and above all the way home and 50 psi on tick over. I have never used any Comma products again especially when I found out their oil was reconstituted.

Bruce.

Not good.

 

I have always used Penrite 20/60, since 2011 when the engine was totally rebuilt.

This was the main bearing (Glacier) after 70k last year.  It was only removed to change the rear crank seal (NOS replacement).

Car is used on endurance events, track days, & two years of sprinting in the TRR championship.

What do you think ?

 

 

Cheers.

BearingR.jpg

Stack.R.jpg

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4 hours ago, astontr6 said:

I had a bad experience with Halfords/ Comma oil some 30 + years ago on a trip to my cousins hill farm a journey of 250 miles through loss of oil pressure. I started my journey with my oil pressure at just over 75 psi but after 50 miles it had dropped to 60 psi and tick over was at 30 psi. I stopped at the Seven Bridge Services for 1 hour to let the engine cool down. Started the engine again and it was back up to 75 psi running at 2000 RPM but as I progressed it started to fall again. This was at the the of time of oil and petrol rationing. For the journey back I drained the Halfords/Comma oil out and replaced it with Castrol Agricultural 10/40 my oil pressure on the way home stuck at 75 psi at 2000 rpm and above all the way home and 50 psi on tick over. I have never used any Comma products again especially when I found out their oil was reconstituted.

Bruce.

 

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3 minutes ago, astontr6 said:

 

I think that your engine is doing very well as you are taking the revs up to 7500 rpm. That shell bearing in your photo does not show the usual signs of wear v the mileage done!

Bruce.

4 minutes ago, astontr6 said:

 

 

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1 hour ago, astontr6 said:

I think that your engine is doing very well as you are taking the revs up to 7500 rpm. That shell bearing in your photo does not show the usual signs of wear v the mileage done!

Bruce.

 

Thanks very much.  Yes, better than most new ones folk start with ! Engine is still nice and quiet, & oil light goes out immediately.

 

Oil pressure still close to 100 psi on cold start up, too.

 

Cheers.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Seems like a number of engine rebuilders I have used recommend VR1 20w50. I've used in stag, midget and TR6 and seems to keep pressure well

Tim 

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A lot of us use the thinner Penrite 20/60 Phil which is also high in ZDDP.  You shouldn't need anything as thick as a 40/70 in a TR.  Might be OK for a traction engine. 

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My TR3A suffers from low oil pressure. No rattles on start up or any thing, good pressure when cold but drops to 10 on tick over and abot 40 at 2500 rpm which is what it runs at in overdrive top gear. presently using Smith and Allen 20/50.

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2 hours ago, Phil Read said:

My TR3A suffers from low oil pressure. No rattles on start up or any thing, good pressure when cold but drops to 10 on tick over and abot 40 at 2500 rpm which is what it runs at in overdrive top gear. presently using Smith and Allen 20/50.

A bit worn then but It might run for years like that Phil. Oil flow is important, pressure not so much. Putting thicker stuff in to mask that is  probably not a good idea. Have you checked the oil gauge is telling the truth and that the PRV is seating properly? 

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Vr1 has 1400 ppm zinc which is apparently plenty of protection. 

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On 9/11/2023 at 11:46 AM, roy53 said:

Halfords dose seem to drop pressure rather too low when hot on tick over . New engine just run in so need to do a change. Thoughts welcome

Roy

Years ago I had trouble with Comma/Halfords oil with low oil pressure! I used to travel down to Wales to see relatives. My car would start at 75 ft/lbs but after 30 miles would drop to 50 running and on tick over 20. When I got to my destination I changed the oil to Castrol agricultural 10/40 for farm machinery. When I did my return journey it was 70 ft/lbs all they way back on the M4 with 50 ft/lbs on tick over. Never used any Comma products since.

Bruce.

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Higher oil pressure from a change of oil just means the new oil is more viscous and flows less, but it is oil flow which is important. You want oil going through the bearings, not backed up in the pump.  Pressure develops due to resistance to flow - if there was a blockage the pressures would look fantastic but the engine wouldn't last long.

High pressure due to tight bearing fits is good but high pressure from using 'treacle' in a worn engine, not so much.  (Yes I know a 10/40 isn't a thick oil - just pointing out the principle)

 

 

Edited by RobH
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