Jezzer Posted July 8, 2013 Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 Good morning gentlemen. I hope you lucky people are enjoying some top down motoring in the lovely weather that we are currently experiencing. Please could you give me your views on the uprated stub axle & alloy hub upgrade that is offered by one of the TR spares suppliers. Is it "over the top" for a standard TR6 or do you consider it an essential upgrade? As always, looking forward to your views, experiences and wisdom. Thank you in advance. Jezzer Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted July 8, 2013 Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 The standard build has lasted 40 odd years any upgrades are to either lighten ones pocket or to improve performance. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobinTR6 Posted July 8, 2013 Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 Cant agree more Roger, wise words. Now onto my 5 or 6 TR6 and never had a problem with the stub axles themselves, replaced a few front bearings but otherwise no other problems. I would add probably also depends on your planned usage. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jezzer Posted July 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 Mmmm that is what I suspected, but I thought I would ask the experts just to check that it wasnt an essential upgrade. Planned usage is just nice enjoyable motoring with maybe the occasional high speed blast down the motorway to clear the cobwebs out, but only up to 70mph officer - honestly!! Jezzer Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobinTR6 Posted July 8, 2013 Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 Wise man, frankly one of the benefits of the classic car is that at 70 you think youre going really fast and dont need to go faster so good for the license and safety etc. I put that down as normal use so you dont need but may want upgrades. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted July 8, 2013 Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 Well worth the money, having fitted them its not just a "Go fast option" it makes engineering sense as well. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tony Millward Posted July 8, 2013 Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 One of the first 'upgrades' I did, I fitted Stag stub axles....they don't bend. Cheers Tony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted July 8, 2013 Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 Do the statistics add up. I appreciate that the new items are possibly stronger but is it a common failure area. In fitting an updated item you are starting its ife from the begining. If you fit a new old design then you should have another 40 years life. Or am I missing something. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted July 8, 2013 Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 (edited) Too may rubbish repro parts a round for me to contemplate venturing into the unknown. What if they've been turned from mild steel in HoChiMin city on a treadle lathe? Who tests them, and how? NOS OE Stag stub axles sounds a good idea - do they exist? Edited July 8, 2013 by Peter Cobbold Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Denis Posted July 8, 2013 Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 Agree all the above...Whilst Jeezer says his car is "Standard" we assume he has the original 'standard' wheels? Also we must consider the Tyres...even if we assumme they are 'standard' 165 section? We must consider that the Tyres are Modern Replacements? If so it's a pound to a penny they far exceed the grip factor of the original 'Standard' low grip ones we all used to use back in the day when the TR6 was a current model car! We must also consider that all components, 'standard' or otherwise all have a 'Life-span'! Having said all that, I've never had one fail yet! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tony Millward Posted July 9, 2013 Report Share Posted July 9, 2013 The main reason for changing front stub axles is to eliminate pad knockback due the the stub axles flexing when cornering hard not because they wear out.. Tony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nick Jones Posted July 9, 2013 Report Share Posted July 9, 2013 Stub axle flex and knock back can also be addressed by using a bearing spacer tube between the races which also stops the races turning on the stub and eventually wearing it. You can also reduce the bearing endfloat just that little bit more which helps stop those pesky modern MoT men complaining. Spacers tubes are available from TR Enterprises, Revington and probably others too. Just done this on both my PI and Vitesse and it's worked nicely. Mind you, both of those have bigger bearings than the TR6 to begin with. Nick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnC Posted July 10, 2013 Report Share Posted July 10, 2013 I fitted the Revington spacers a few months ago and it cured the knock-back I was suffering, which regularly occurred when reversing out of my driveway at nearly full lock over a big spoon drain (plenty of up & down combined with side-to-side). Used to need to apply the brakes once to get rid of excessive pedal travel, before applying in anger at the end of the street. Now there's no excessive travel. Happy camper. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jemgee Posted July 10, 2013 Report Share Posted July 10, 2013 (edited) Reversing at nearly full lock over a drain . Sorry but I feel a front bracket on the suspension/repair may become another option Edited July 10, 2013 by jemgee Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stanpartmanpartwolf Posted July 11, 2013 Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 I made a set of bearing spacers in 1997 to cure the enormous knockback we were suffering on 12" racing discs- so severe that the disc was actually eating the alloy AP calipers & the pedal barely existed. The results were remarkable. You can fit expensive alloy hubs, oversize stubs & bearings and go nowhere until the bearings are locked down hard on the stub axle. Look at Reliant's failed efforts with the power-steered Scimitar GTE. Make sure all your standard parts are in good order & simply fit the bearing spacer kit. I used to make and sell them for £32 until the companies mentioned above began selling the very same design. Imitation/flattery, eh? By the way, don't stuff the entire hub with grease. It serves as much purpose as filling the engine oil up to the cap. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jezzer Posted July 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 Wow, that has given plenty of food for thought. As usual a wide selection of options and opinions to choose from. Thank you very much gentlemen for your input, it is greatly appreciated. Jezzer Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Moltu Posted July 11, 2013 Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 One of the first 'upgrades' I did, I fitted Stag stub axles....they don't bend. Cheers Tony Are they a direct fit or is fettling required? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted July 11, 2013 Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 (edited) I fitted the Revington spacers a few months ago and it cured the knock-back I was suffering, which regularly occurred when reversing out of my driveway at nearly full lock over a big spoon drain (plenty of up & down combined with side-to-side). Used to need to apply the brakes once to get rid of excessive pedal travel, before applying in anger at the end of the street. Now there's no excessive travel. Happy camper. John Only thing with these kits is the spacers. Its not fit and forget, end float of the spacers needs checking every 1000 miles. I had the Rtr system, and could be faffed with checking it all every 1000 miles Just be aware of the above. Cheers Guy Edited July 11, 2013 by Jersey Royal Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tony Millward Posted July 11, 2013 Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 Are they a direct fit or is fettling required? Hi Andy, yes, they do need 'fettling'. The taper that fits into the vertical link has to turned to fit. I also had new hubs made that lock the taper bearings in place (they are still adjustable), as I couldn't be ar$ed with checking them every 1000 miles. I'm well pleased with them. Tony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
johnny250 Posted July 11, 2013 Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 (edited) I fitted this set bought at the International a few years ago...... they've done the usual annual mileage including 3000 mile runs to Italy twice, Stelvio etc, as well as two whole days tearing around Snetterton circuit...NO problems or adjustments needed whatsoever. Compare the thickness of axle and size of bearings........made in Coventry BTW (not China) Edited July 11, 2013 by johnny250 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted July 11, 2013 Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 Just fitted the same and they are very good, recommended. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianhoward Posted July 11, 2013 Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 Whose 'make' are those then? Cheers Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted July 11, 2013 Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 (edited) Moss.amongst others. I fitted the Moss kit as it was the best VFM. It also does away with the inner oil seal which currently is problematical due to them being way too thick and deletes the outer grease cap. (The bearings have their own oil seals.) Stuart. Edited July 11, 2013 by stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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