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About Ade-TR4

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  1. Ade-TR4

    tr4 bonnet

    Hi Ron, You won't hear any drum from the bonnet, just the lovely noise of the engine and carbs underneath Also, avoid lifting the bonnet at the corners; grab it in the middle - It's a weighty panel and lifting it at the corners also contributes to the eventual bending. cheers Ade
  2. Hi John, Welcome! I rebuilt my car over 15 years ago - Fabulous fun Photograph EVERYTHING before you dismantle it. Label parts, bag/ store them. Even if they're not going back on the car, they're a good reference. There are good sources of info out there and these are handbuilt cars: How much you want to do depends on skills and how much you want to learn! Enjoy!!! Ade
  3. That looks great Tim. Does it work like one of those bath-lifts one sees in the Sunday magazines??? Hope so, my crawling around under the car days are numbered - need some comfort (and help getting up!) Ade
  4. I think the beam-axle cars started with "CTC" rather than "CT", maybe CTC52373L was a beam axle car? Could be an admin error at BMIHT? I'm probably talking rubbish... Adey
  5. Ade-TR4

    Fo8 Gaskets

    Weird I know, but checked at my Dad's engineering shop - definitely out. Second set were OK. Ade
  6. Ade-TR4

    Fo8 Gaskets

    Had weird problems on my father-in-laws rebuilt engine. Could never get it running right - persistent timing problems. Turned out that the cam was 1-tooth-out on the timing chain... Re: liners and Fo8s, when I replaced mine, the first set of liners were not parallel between machined seating surface and top of liner. It was the seating surface that was out, so couldn't be corrected simply by grinding top surface. Had to return for different set (which were then spot on). Cheers ade
  7. Ade-TR4

    Servo Brakes

    No prob - Hope it's an easy fix!
  8. Ade-TR4

    Servo Brakes

    What fluid are you using? If you're on Silicone, it doesn't lubricate the seals and they stick. You can rebuild with Molycote Silicone grease and this cures the problem. But, as everyone else has said - Get it checked, don't drive it!!! Ade
  9. Ade-TR4

    Top gear

    Can he do a spot at the IWE??? Ade
  10. Hi Ian, I had a similar issue many years back with an 18ACR (my first IWE after getting the TR4 back on the road in 2004). It overcharged the battery to the point that it boiled and started venting out of the filler caps on the cells. I suspect the heat fried the voltage regulator as there was nearly 20V across the battery(!) Swapped the alternator (in the field at Malvern IWE!) for a recon Bosch unit and no problemski since. (It also cooked the coil, but that didn't go bang until the journey home!!!!) Narrow belt conversion with a longer fan belt has allowed the alternator to sit further away for the manifold (plus you can heat shield, wrap etc etc) Ade
  11. All ears Mick! Especially as the two piece ones don't really fit that well...! (I have one and it's an "interference fit", as in, you have to interfere with it until it fits....) I'll get mi coat Ade
  12. I rebuilt my car nut and bolt, but wouldn't dream of driving it without an MOT. My MOT-er is a born and bred TR restorer too and the only person allowed to spanner my TR other than me! It's the best-value spend on the car each year and has picked up potential problems before they become an issue. just my opinion... but would you buy a TR that didn't have a fistful of year-on-year MOT's in the history file???? Ade
  13. F1Loco, I had this issue a few years back and it was the Fo8's in the end. Replace in-situ: It's open-heart surgery, but do-able with the engine in. Deck heights are critical, as Roger says. As is cleanliness: You won't believe the crap that builds-up around number 4 liner (rear-most) if it hasn't been de-sludged for a while! I really hope Mick's plan works for you Ade
  14. Well, they had 1 bracket! At least I have a template to make the second Spot on for the 25x40mm "L" section. Thanks chaps Adey
  15. Cheers Mark, I've given them a try! Ade
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