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Ukmax

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About Ukmax

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  • Location
    Worcestershire
  • Cars Owned:
    1935 Singer LeMans, 1964 Triumph TR4, 1968 Rover P6 V8, 1972 Jensen Interceptor, Jaguar E type, 1990 TWR Jaguar XJ-RS, 1991 TWR Jaguar XJ-RS, 1999 BMW Z3M Coupe,

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  1. Hello Pete, I'm sorry for not replying sooner , I completely forgot to finish my reply and then I wasn't on the forum for a while. As I said the "bodge" was perpetrated because the front suspension was all over the place, once I corrected the suspension the body could be remounted as per factory; however, I'd like to think it was better than factory! In fact there were the same thick pads more-or-less everywhere, even the thick aluminium slot washers had been replaced with 18mm MDF ones. The door gaps were okay insofar as the doors opened and closed okay. I have to say I am no
  2. Many thanks gents for most helpful replies (as usual). Pete, I think your are absolutely correct about the reason for the 18mm spacers and of course, the use of MDF is insane! This whole job started because the left front wheel was too close to the arch which turned out to be caused by badly damaged front suspension parts on both sides, including the turrets, albeit worse on the left. Andy, you are correct. As soon as I saw the MDF, I did indeed check for and find, several other bodges all of which have been rectified. David
  3. Hello again, I’m about to put the body back on my TR4 after remedying the numerous serious errors by the PO who had restored this car to a very low standard! The parts book lists 4 metal plates, one on each of the body mounting outriggers but there were no such plates fitted when I removed the body, the PO had actually used blocks of 18mm MDF. Are these plates simply shims of some sort to fit as required or should they be present at all times? Also how thick are these plates?, David
  4. MKTR, Thank you once again. The picture you posted and those on the links have answered my question. David
  5. I used "Cobra",("Raptor" is another brand) which is a two-pack finish for pickup/ truck beds. Spray on with Schutz gun (good quality one with air control for best results) looks good, sets rock hard, doesn't chip. My son has used it in his business on dozens of Land Rover chassis without any problems. David
  6. Thank you for your trouble. I had looked at that post but it is for a TR4A and the routing around the suspension turrets is different to the TR4 (as are the turrets for that matter) However, what I did notice on the "Triumph Experience" link is that there is an surprisingly long run of tube around the turret that has no support other than terminations at either end. David
  7. Hello, Does anybody have a photo of the routing of the front brake pipes from the chassis mounted 4 way connector please. PO replaced brake pipes but has made a complete mess which just looks wrong. Many thanks David
  8. Thanks for the reply. You are correct with regard to the difficulty of calculating the actual weight on only the front suspension (except that the diff doesn't add to it) but I've now given the matter some further thought. It's really down to the loaded position of the front suspension so it may better to load weight to give the correct ride height at the front chassis crossmember and I seem to recall that this height is given somewhere in the workshop manual - when I find it!
  9. Hello again After nearly three years, I'm bumping my original post for convenience and continuity. I fiddled around for a another month or so before deciding the only way forward was to strip the whole car down to a bare chassis which I did and thus opened the can of worms! Bent chassis and bent suspension components both sides, compounded further by an appalling repair attempt resulting in the left side lower arm pivots being welded on about 8mm out of alignment. I cut the whole lot off and had all new chassis welded parts made by CTM (Colin was extremely helpful). I also
  10. I finally arrived at the light at the end of the tunnel to find another tunnel with the light on!

  11. As suggested by Mick, I measured the rear axle for squareness in the chassis and found it be square within a mm. Close examination revealed a straigthening repair to chassis, roughly between the point where the left side forward body support tube joins the chassis and the first bend, where the chassis starts to taper towards the front. Also the fact there are ground down welds each end of the front crossmember, indicates this has been replaced (or cut out and reattached) at some time. Because of the damage repair, I followed the procedure in the blue manual to ascertain the squareness o
  12. Gents, thank you very much for the advice, which is much appreciated. Mick, I did check the rear axle, early on in my investigation and is was square with the chassis. However I don't know if it is in the right place do you have a measurement from an easily identifiable datum please? I'll certainly carefully examine the areas you suggest Stuart but if nothing is obvious, I may decide to take the body off this car and jig the chassis up properly for my own peace of mind if nothing else. I'm further frustrated by the problem with my ramp because it's holding me up from cracking o
  13. As my initial problem was that the wheel was too close to the top of the arch, I only did a quick cursory check of each side wheel centre to centre measurement by "guesstimating" the centre of the spinners and I recall that it was more-or-less the same each side, but but given I am now only talking about 10mm or so, then "more-or-less" is obviously not good enough! I will therefore accurately mark the exact centres of each wheel and carry out that measurement again. Before I do this, I will need to set the track on the front wheels again. David
  14. The car has been stuck up in the air for a couple of weeks following a hydraulic ram fault on my ramp and because I store another car under the ramp, I dare not let it down in case I can't get it back up again! (it's supported by acrow props just in case!) As I said in a previous post, the ride height now appears to be correct but the left side wheel is further back in the wheel arch than the right side wheel and only a couple of millimetres clear of the wing on right lock. However, I have been able to carry out more measurements because and It's clear that the chassis front or the s
  15. Ken, I seem to recall that the the remains of a car I referred to was in a neutral gelcoat finish but I can't swear to that. I may also be incorrect about only having Dorretti part chassis, there may well have been some complete chassis in the original acquisition from Swallow which were sold before I started there. during the early/mid 60's Monkspath had completely finished with the "specials" market but as I said, they did continue to supply Dorretti parts right up until I left and also stocked some Triumph TR parts. They also continued to repair glass fibre cars and supplied
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