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Everything posted by Ade-TR4

  1. I have a Mot-a-Vac unit and it's very good. They crop up from time to time. No problems with silicone fluid since rebuilding and greasing seals with MolyKote silicone grease. Compared to previous Lockheed-type servo it is much less intrusive and still has good feedback. I have driven a rally-prep TR4 without a servo and the difference is noticeable. Cheers Ade
  2. Hi Michael If you can get it scanned and an stl file, I can try and print it for you. Cheers Adey
  3. Electric project? Sorry I'll get me coat...
  4. Correct re: reduced dia btw
  5. According to the instructions, they go on the inner end. Not sure why designed that way Ade
  6. Hi All, Done a TinkerCad mock-up of the spacer. STL file in case you want to print a physical copy. I don't have a mic, so measurements with vernier calipers only. Note that kit comes with several shims of 3, 5 and 10 thou. Dodgy sketch included :/ Hope it's of use! Adey Stunning Gogo.stl
  7. The EZ-Carlift from Holden's is very good and can be fitted with castors to allow the car and lift to be moved around. Good under-car access too. Adey
  8. Thanks for the info I have a set un-fitted, so can measure if needed Adey
  9. Have any of you tried the spacer/ distance collar that has been made to fit between the bearing races? I have a couple to fit, but haven't tried them yet. Adey PS: As Stuart said, fit the soaked-felt and then re-adjust a day or two later. Cheers - Happy New Year btw (looking forward to the International this year already!)
  10. I've had silicone fluid in mine since it was rebuilt in 2004. The Mot-a-Vac servo is fine with it too (used Molykote grease on internal seals when rebuilding). Hawk pads from Cambridge motorsport are recommended also. Merry Christmas! Adey
  11. If you can find a set of Twin-Valve lever arms, they are a very nice improvement over standard - I have them on my TR4 and the improvement is good! TrTony occasionally has a set knocking about, there was a pair on ebay last week. Cheers Adey
  12. Hi Ron, You won't hear any drum from the bonnet, just the lovely noise of the engine and carbs underneath Also, avoid lifting the bonnet at the corners; grab it in the middle - It's a weighty panel and lifting it at the corners also contributes to the eventual bending. cheers Ade
  13. Hi John, Welcome! I rebuilt my car over 15 years ago - Fabulous fun Photograph EVERYTHING before you dismantle it. Label parts, bag/ store them. Even if they're not going back on the car, they're a good reference. There are good sources of info out there and these are handbuilt cars: How much you want to do depends on skills and how much you want to learn! Enjoy!!! Ade
  14. That looks great Tim. Does it work like one of those bath-lifts one sees in the Sunday magazines??? Hope so, my crawling around under the car days are numbered - need some comfort (and help getting up!) Ade
  15. I think the beam-axle cars started with "CTC" rather than "CT", maybe CTC52373L was a beam axle car? Could be an admin error at BMIHT? I'm probably talking rubbish... Adey
  16. Weird I know, but checked at my Dad's engineering shop - definitely out. Second set were OK. Ade
  17. Had weird problems on my father-in-laws rebuilt engine. Could never get it running right - persistent timing problems. Turned out that the cam was 1-tooth-out on the timing chain... Re: liners and Fo8s, when I replaced mine, the first set of liners were not parallel between machined seating surface and top of liner. It was the seating surface that was out, so couldn't be corrected simply by grinding top surface. Had to return for different set (which were then spot on). Cheers ade
  18. No prob - Hope it's an easy fix!
  19. What fluid are you using? If you're on Silicone, it doesn't lubricate the seals and they stick. You can rebuild with Molycote Silicone grease and this cures the problem. But, as everyone else has said - Get it checked, don't drive it!!! Ade
  20. Ade-TR4

    Top gear

    Can he do a spot at the IWE??? Ade
  21. Hi Ian, I had a similar issue many years back with an 18ACR (my first IWE after getting the TR4 back on the road in 2004). It overcharged the battery to the point that it boiled and started venting out of the filler caps on the cells. I suspect the heat fried the voltage regulator as there was nearly 20V across the battery(!) Swapped the alternator (in the field at Malvern IWE!) for a recon Bosch unit and no problemski since. (It also cooked the coil, but that didn't go bang until the journey home!!!!) Narrow belt conversion with a longer fan belt has allowed the alternator to
  22. All ears Mick! Especially as the two piece ones don't really fit that well...! (I have one and it's an "interference fit", as in, you have to interfere with it until it fits....) I'll get mi coat Ade
  23. I rebuilt my car nut and bolt, but wouldn't dream of driving it without an MOT. My MOT-er is a born and bred TR restorer too and the only person allowed to spanner my TR other than me! It's the best-value spend on the car each year and has picked up potential problems before they become an issue. just my opinion... but would you buy a TR that didn't have a fistful of year-on-year MOT's in the history file???? Ade
  24. F1Loco, I had this issue a few years back and it was the Fo8's in the end. Replace in-situ: It's open-heart surgery, but do-able with the engine in. Deck heights are critical, as Roger says. As is cleanliness: You won't believe the crap that builds-up around number 4 liner (rear-most) if it hasn't been de-sludged for a while! I really hope Mick's plan works for you Ade
  25. Well, they had 1 bracket! At least I have a template to make the second Spot on for the 25x40mm "L" section. Thanks chaps Adey
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