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Everything posted by trchris

  1. My understanding is if you fit original period lighting that were made for the manufacture at the time your fine no E marking needed, because we are fitting new made today parts they must be E marked compliant( this doesn't just apply to lights) With the MOT the tester only tests what is fitted at time of test and is not allowed to strip and inspect so if the headlights pass the inspection and beam test thats it a pass! however LED headlight bulbs or assemblies should be E marked. Please dont swear at me its just my thoughts Chris
  2. I agree with TR4Tony above I have E rated headlight units(original landrover fitment) and osram H4 bulbs with separate relays for main and dip beam . Again it all comes down to quality items, a major improvement is just making good the wiring and adding relays. Chris
  3. Auto Smart do a glue remover called Tardis used many times excellent but a little pricey also removes tar from paint work (doesn't harm paint work either) Chris
  4. Hi Tim I believe the use of LED headlamp bulbs are not road legal in this country unless original manufacture equipment Chris
  5. Hi Tony I agree with John Ive replaced my set of painted wires with a genuine set of minilites I managed to pick up second hand at a reasonable price have you considered a set of alloys? they do suit the 4s nicely. If you do decide on wires I would go for painted as the reasons John mentions easier to clean and refurbish if and when required Chris
  6. Hi Pete I'm in the process of fitting some MX5 seats into the 4a also, having looked at the cd I decided to make up my own fixing brackets using 40mm x 20mm rectangular box as I found I only need to raise the seat by 20mm to clear floor drilled in the right places to use the existing floor mounts . I think if you follow the cd you may need the assistance of a metal folding machine to carry out the folds. If you do a search there are other methods which members have used also Chris
  7. first thing you learn as an apprentice first lead to remove last to attach THE EARTH CABLE Chris
  8. I would suspect the diaphragm has perished/split they are not the easiest job to replace either Chris
  9. Hi Barry I removed the front ARB and it softened the suspension no end at the front not needed in my view and you'll be surprised how much it stiffens the front when fitted Chris
  10. Hi Opie Theres a thread in the 4 forum that might interest you seems you may have loose rear axle tubes worth a quick read Chris
  11. Hi Eddie Tims picture shows perfectly the fitting of the trim as he says you can easily make the two small side panels I used the the off white lightly embossed headlinning vinyl on mine you only need 1/2 meter(its 137cm wide) as its more than enough and a lot cheaper also used when replaced the main headlinning so matches Chris
  12. Hi roger Euro car parts do the Bosch coil part number 413110037 with there discount doesn't seem a bad price either Chris
  13. Hi Rob the point I was trying to make was because of the cheaper fan units build quality they are less effective than a better built unit The one I originally used didn't in my opinion fill me with confidence of its effectiveness the Spal is smaller and only 80w yet provides a better flow through the radiator I suppose it comes down to money you pay for what you get. I agree there's no need for bigger more powerful fan units the same as large output alternators bigger is not always the solution Chris
  14. Its not the reliability its the performance as I said the one I had originally fitted as a pusher fan hardly rippled a sheet of paper on the other side of the radiator the Spal fitted as a puller sucks a sheet against the other side quite forcibly Chris
  15. trchris


    Hi Clem The 5and 6 has extra vents just under the dash both sides Chris
  16. trchris

    No Heat.

    Hi Phil The heater valve is located at the back of the cylinder head easy to remove check once engine warm if the hose gets hot first obviously with control inside on warm I would also check the distribution control cable do this by operating whilst looking at the flap on bottom of heater unit in the car from either the drivers or passenger foot well sounds like it will be the valve on the head as other say its not a good design Chris
  17. trchris

    No Heat.

    Phil My heater valve was completely blocked allowing nothing through changed to the Everco type now gets very warm Chris
  18. I removed the cheaper 14inch,120w pusher fan(from ebay make I wont mention but you all know) and fitted a Spal 10inch puller the difference is amazing and to think its a smaller fan too for anyone considering running with no mechanical fan and just using an electric type don't go cheap Chris
  19. Hi all I hope everyone's taking there 50 year old wiring into consideration when they are upgrading alternator outputs Chris
  20. I would also assume that in a well balanced engine the crank has the same forces acting on it so these cranks are not immune to failure either Chris
  21. Thanks all for the input and comments I agree with the consensus that it makes no difference if the extension and fan are there or not and theres no need for a damped pulley unless pacifically made for the TR2/3/4 crank the benefit is minimal if any Chris
  22. Hi John unfortunately your too far from me but that would be an interesting experiment to conduct on a tr4 however as I understand the 2s and 3s have a shorter fan extension so surely if the extension and fan form part of a crank balancer/ damper shouldn't they all be uniform as they fit to the same engine all be it in different models?
  23. Hi Roger and Stef Thanks for the replies. These were my thoughts as well unless the damped pulley has been specifically designed for the appropriate crank its fitted to its almost as good as not and Im sure the ones sold in the kits haven't been thoroughly tested and designed for the cranks they are suppose to fit so in my opinion and only my opinion maybe do not give much benefit. Chris
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